Deep Yamagata that you don't know - Yamagata and Okitama, where the "real Japan" remains to be passed on to the next generation

Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihon Sha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihon Sha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.

The rich lifestyle and nature of Okitama, as seen by the Englishwoman Isabella Bird

In May 1878 (Meiji 11), a foreigner set foot on Japanese soil. She was an English woman named Isabella Bird, a traveler who traveled across Japan. She traveled to every continent except South America from the age of 22 to 69, and is one of the most famous female travelers in the world, having devoted herself to publishing and lecturing.

After entering Japan from Yokohama, she passed through northern Kanto, Aizu, and from Niigata, passing through numerous mountain passes, to visit the Okitama region. At this time, Bird described Okitama and the Yonezawa Plain as the "Arcadia of the East." "Arcadia" is the name of a region in ancient Greece, and refers to an imaginary paradise or utopia. Seeing the fruitful land and the beauty and blessed natural environment of the Okitama region, Bird superimposed it on the Western Garden of Eden.
Her sensitivity and culture, her sharp observational skills, and her intellectual curiosity to find the truth are extraordinary, and she unravels people's lives and cultural activities with a strong desire to explore. Two years after returning from her travels, she compiled these in "Unbeaten Tracks in Japan." This was first translated by Kenichi Takanashi, an English scholar from the Okitama region, and published under the title "Travels in the Deep North of Japan."

Bird also traveled along the stone-paved road of "Kurosawa Pass," which was developed during the Edo period for travel between Yonezawa and Niigata and for transporting goods. Even today, the road is known as the "Kurosawa Pass Stone-paved Road" and is being maintained by local people through conservation efforts. Just thinking about how Bird navigated this mountain path with the equipment he had at the time brings to mind the hardships he endured.
The beautiful Okitama Basin can be seen from Mount Jubunichi in Akayu, Nanyo City. Bird must have felt excited by this magnificent view. Akayu Onsen, where Bird took a break after crossing the steep mountain path to Yamagata, still soothes the fatigue of travel with its abundant hot spring water and good quality.
The route she took 150 years ago cannot be seen in its entirety as historical sites today, but as a traveller just like Bird, I couldn't help but sympathise with her whenever I came across the beautiful, typically Japanese scenery that is likely to have remained unchanged since her time there.
The Okitama region is peaceful and travel-friendly, and it offered many of the rustic rural landscapes that Bird had sensed.

Kurosawa Pass Stone-paved Road

Akayu Hot Springs

Ten thousandths of a mountain

Experience the world of Matagi, a people who learn from nature and live in harmony with the mountains

In Oguni Town, nestled in the majestic Iide mountain range, there are people called "Oguni Matagi" who live in harmony with nature, living just between bears and humans. They continue to preserve their traditions and pass on the culture of Matagi to the present day.

Matagi refers to hunters who mainly live in the northeastern Tohoku region and hunt only after being approved by the feudal domain. Eventually, this way of life spread to Yamagata and continues to this day. Although the origins of the Matagi in Oguni Town are unclear, it is believed that they have existed in this area for about 400 years.
Modern Matagi live in villages, mainly engaged in farming, but when it is hunting season they go into the mountains to hunt. While hunting provides a livelihood, Matagi are also tasked with passing on the rituals and hunting methods of the Matagi world, as well as the profound spiritual world. This is completely different from sport hunting, which is done as a hobby or entertainment.

For Matagi, the mountains are sacred places. Because stepping into nature means getting closer to the mountain gods, there are Matagi etiquette rules, such as Matagi language, behavior, and prayers that can only be used in the mountains, and these have been passed down orally from generation to generation.
For the Matagi, bears are an object of hunting, but they are also a blessing from the gods and are important to them. Eating the bear while praying at it is also a form of memorial service, and using every last bit of it, including the fur, organs, and fat, shows respect for nature.

By the way, Oguni Town is located on the border with Niigata Prefecture and is known as a heavy snow area. Isabella Bird, mentioned in the previous chapter, crossed several mountain passes from Niigata and first set foot in the Okitama region from Oguni. Bird visited this place in the summer, but even today Oguni is a place where snow accumulates to about 2.5 meters, and in winter she would never have been able to cross the mountains.
Now, let's return to the topic of Matagi.
Currently, there are 80 to 90 Oguni Matagi, ranging in age from their 20s to their 80s. Times have changed, and nowadays there are more and more bears that do not know the fear of humans and descend into villages to cause harm to people, which is becoming a problem. Matagi live on the border between the mountains and the human world, and fulfill their role as "guardians" to prevent bears from entering our living space.
In Oguni Town, you can stay at lodgings and restaurants run by Matagi families. In season, you can enjoy wild plants, mushrooms, chestnuts, and bear stew, and feel like you're getting a taste of the Matagi way of life.
The Matagi way of life speaks to us of the importance of nature, its fearsomeness, and its kindness. It is clear to see, even without words, that they live a life that blends into nature without forcing themselves.
Just watching them live like this makes me keenly aware of how human-centered our lives are. Being close to nature, surrendering ourselves to the changes of nature, and "receiving" nature with gratitude. It was a valuable experience that made me realize that we are beings who are kept alive by nature.

Minshuku Okugawairi

Echigoya Guest House