The father of modern architecture, Tatsuno Kingo. A tour of seven famous buildings remaining across the country, including Tokyo Station and the Bank of Japan Head Office

Tatsuno Kingo was one of Japan's first architects.

In 1879, the year Edison invented the incandescent light bulb, Tatsuno Kingo was a member of the first class of the Imperial College of Engineering (now the Faculty of Engineering at the University of Tokyo) and was studying architecture under the British architect Josiah Conder, who had been invited by the government.

In the same year, he graduated at the top of his class. All four of his classmates would go on to become Japan's first architects, but Tatsuno, who was at the top of his class, went on to study in Europe on a government scholarship and became even more involved in architecture.

After returning to Japan, he contributed to architectural education at universities while also designing the Bank of Japan Head Office, etc. It was after he established his own firm as a private architect in 1903 that buildings known as "Tatsuno Style" began to be built throughout the country.

It is said that he subsequently designed over 200 buildings, many of which are now designated as Important Cultural Properties. From as far north as Hokkaido to as far south as Saga Prefecture, where Tatsuno was born, each of these buildings is beloved as a symbol of their town and is also popular as a tourist spot.

Japanese and Western architecture. Designing unique buildings regardless of genre

Well, the most distinctive feature of Tatsuno Kingo's architecture is the "Tatsuno style" design, which features red bricks with white granite lines and a tower or shed on the roof. As exemplified by Tokyo Station, the stately and tasteful exteriors are sure to be deeply engraved in the hearts of many Japanese people.

However, the charm of Tatsuno Kingo is much more than that. He incorporated Art Nouveau architecture into the "Former Matsumoto Residence" and Japanese-style architecture into "Nanten-en." One of the joys of touring Tatsuno's architecture is imagining the individuality of each building.

Tokyo Station: The culmination of Tatsuno's architecture. Durable enough to withstand earthquakes

The first name that comes to mind as Tatsuno Kingo's masterpiece is Tokyo Station, also known as the "Central Station," which was completed in 1914. However, it was originally supposed to be designed by German engineer Franz Baltzer, not Tatsuno.

The reason why Tatsuno was chosen to undertake the project was simple. The Japanese government was unhappy with the design proposed by Baltzer, which was a mix of Japanese and Western elements, with a brick structure and a tiled roof featuring karahafu roofing. The government was promoting Westernization, so they wanted a purely Western-style building.

For Tatsuno, this was a golden opportunity. After all, Central Station was one of the things he absolutely wanted to design in his career as an architect (the others were the Bank of Japan Head Office and the Imperial Diet Building, the latter of which he never got to do). The request came the year after he retired from his position as professor at the Imperial University College of Technology, now the Faculty of Engineering at the University of Tokyo, in 1902.

Tatsuno designed a three-story, 335-meter-long station building made of brick and reinforced concrete. There are various theories about its architectural style, but it is a unique creation that draws on a number of traditional Western architectural styles, making it truly worthy of being called Tatsuno-style architecture. It was so sturdy that it remained unfazed even during the Great Kanto Earthquake, and its imposing appearance at the time of the disaster must have been an encouragement to many people.

However, this sturdy station building was badly damaged during the Great Tokyo Air Raid of 1945. Although it was restored soon after the war, a lack of materials meant it could not be restored to its original state. The third floor, which was particularly badly damaged, had to be removed, and the station's appearance changed significantly.

The current appearance is the result of a restoration project undertaken in the 2000s. The eight eagles and the eight Chinese zodiac reliefs attached to the ceiling of the octagonal dome have also been beautifully restored to their original design. It may be a timeless miracle that we can still see the original Tokyo Station, based on Tatsuno's designs down to the last detail.

By the way, there is an interesting story behind the eight zodiac animals on the dome. The missing four animals (the Rat, Rabbit, Horse, Rooster) had been a mystery for a long time. However, it was discovered that the missing animals were found in the Takeo Onsen Tower Gate in Tatsuno's hometown of Saga Prefecture, which was undergoing renovation at the same time as Tokyo Station.

Was it intentional, or was it just a whim? Why not visit Tokyo Station and ponder Tatsuno's intentions?

Bank of Japan Head Office Main Building: Japan's first stone building, strongly influenced by Europe

After studying architecture in England, France, and Italy, Tatsuno returned to Japan and designed the Bank of Japan Head Office Building, which was completed in 1896.

Although this building is primarily in the Neo-Baroque style, it also incorporates Renaissance elements on the walls, making it one of Tatsuno's masterpieces and a symbol of modern Japanese architecture.

This is because, in addition to the design and exterior aesthetic, the building was also designed with great attention to detail, with elevators, flush toilets, fire shutters and other facilities that were still rare at the time, making it a cutting-edge building.

Learning from the fact that a major earthquake occurred during construction, the building was made more earthquake-resistant, and although a fire broke out during the Great Kanto Earthquake, the building did not collapse. Since then, the building has endured numerous disasters, including the May 15 Incident, when a grenade was thrown into the building, without causing any major damage, and it still retains almost the same appearance as it did back then.

Also, this is a well-known story, but did you know that if you look at this building from directly above, it forms the character for "circle"? This is a coincidence, since the old kanji for "circle" was used at the time, but these little anecdotes are also part of what makes this building interesting.

Nantenen: The mythical Japanese-style building designed by Tatsuno is a cultural heritage site where you can stay overnight

Amami Onsen is located in the mountains of Kawachinagano City, Osaka Prefecture. Nantenen, a Japanese inn surrounded by a 10,000m2 Japanese garden, began business in 1949. It began as a relocation of Kazokuyu, an annex of Shioyu, the largest amusement facility in the Orient built in Sakai City, Osaka Prefecture, to this site.

The sukiya-style interior is sophisticated and simple, and features a wabi-sabi design reminiscent of teahouse architecture throughout. Although it has been renovated to suit the times, the guest room "Izuminada" remains as it was at the time. You can experience a moment that feels like you have traveled back in time.

Tatsuno is known for its Western-style architecture, so this type of Japanese-style architecture is extremely rare. The luxurious experience of actually staying in a building of such historical value is sure to be an unforgettable memory.

Bank of Japan Former Otaru Branch Financial Museum: A retro Western-style building that supported Hokkaido's financial center

From the Taisho to the early Showa era, Otaru City in Hokkaido flourished as a banking district, so much so that it was called the "Wall Street of the North." Many of the stately Western-style buildings built at that time still remain, and one that stands out among them is the "Former Otaru Branch of the Bank of Japan," designed by Tatsuno.

Completed in 1912, this two-story brick building has mortared exterior walls that give it a stone-like finish, while the interior has the feel of an old-fashioned Western-style bank.

It now operates as a financial museum, where you can take your time to appreciate this precious building and its history.

If you visit, be sure to check out the large atrium made possible by using a steel beam for the roof and the luxurious design, including the marble counter.

At the time, it was the third most expensive building after the Bank of Japan Head Office and the Bank of Japan Osaka Branch. There are other former bank buildings remaining in Otaru, which have now become tourist spots where you can enjoy their retro atmosphere. Even if you're not an architecture fan, a stroll around the town will be a special experience in itself.

Osaka City Central Public Hall: A cultural hub in Osaka where Einstein also gave a lecture

Tatsuno is called the father of modern architecture not only because he built its foundations and produced famous buildings, but also because he worked hard to train the next generation of architects, in order to make the teachings of his mentors, such as Conder and William Burges, who taught him during his time studying in England, take root in Japan. The symbol of this is the Osaka City Central Public Hall (completed in 1918).

The construction of this building, which was made possible through a donation from Iwamoto Einosuke, a broker at the Osaka Stock Exchange who had made a huge fortune through stocks, used a competitive method known as an "architectural design competition."

The idea of publicly soliciting designs and holding a competition was a rare method at the time. Tatsuno also became involved as a judge. He served as an architectural advisor and judge for the architectural competition for Osaka City Central Public Hall, and was also in charge of the detailed design based on the design by the young architect Shinichiro Okada, who was selected as the first prize winner.

Osaka Central Public Hall was built in such a way, but its greatest attraction is its modern exterior, with a large arch over the front entrance and a neo-Renaissance style (a fusion of balanced Renaissance style such as circular arches and symmetry with architectural techniques from various regions).

The interior is also magnificently designed, and lectures have been held there by historical figures such as Einstein and Helen Keller.

The facility is still available for rental today and continues to shine as a cultural hub for Osaka.

West Japan Industrial Club Hall (former Matsumoto Residence): An enviable Art Nouveau building where you can hold your wedding

The Former Matsumoto Residence (now the West Japan Industrial Club Hall) is a Western-style building completed in 1912, known as a wedding venue that many women dream of attending, due to its atmosphere that makes you feel as if you have wandered into a fairy tale world.

It has a different feel to the Tatsuno architecture we have introduced so far, and is a building called the "gentleman's residence" consisting of a Western-style building and a Japanese-style building. In fact, Nanten-en was also built alongside the Western-style building before it was relocated.

In the case of the Matsumoto Residence, the Western-style building was designed by Tatsuno, while the Japanese pavilion was designed by Kosaburo Kubota. The Western-style building is in the Art Nouveau style, combining organic motifs and curves, creating a truly elegant atmosphere.

Currently, it is mainly used for private weddings and dinner parties, but is open to the public once a year for a special event.

Also in Kitakyushu city, there are other surviving Tatsuno buildings scattered around, such as the Yasuda Nail Factory (currently the Yasuda Industries Yahata Factory) and the One Hundred and Thirty Bank Yahata Branch (currently the Kitakyushu Municipal Former One Hundred and Thirty Bank Gallery). These are important locations that are essential to following in Tatsuno's footsteps.

Former Karatsu Bank Head Office Tatsuno Kingo Memorial Museum: A Tatsuno-style building from his hometown, completed at the same time as Tokyo Station

The Former Karatsu Bank Head Office stands in Karatsu City (Karatsu Domain) in Saga Prefecture, Tatsuno's hometown. This building was commissioned by Tatsuno's classmate, Oshima Kotaro, who led Karatsu's modern industry. The exterior, with its red bricks and white stone lines, is typical of Tatsuno-style architecture, but it was not actually designed by Tatsuno himself.

At the time, Tatsuno was extremely busy working on Tokyo Station, a long-held dream of his as an architect, and he entrusted the design to his beloved disciple, Tanaka Minoru.

However, if you look at the exterior, which adopts the Tatsuno style of architecture, you can see that his philosophy has been firmly passed down. Not only that, Tanaka also incorporated his own unique design using red brick tiles, creating the former Karatsu Bank Head Office as "Minoru Tanaka the architect."

This is surely proof that the next generation is growing well.

Currently, it is also known as the "Tatsuno Kingo Memorial Museum" and has a free permanent exhibition. In addition to exhibiting materials related to Tatsuno Kingo, it also operates as an event space. It is a spot where you can learn more about Tatsuno Kingo.

Let's go on a journey to experience universal beauty

When the Former Karatsu Bank Head Office was completed, Tatsuno was 57 years old and Tanaka was 27. Just seven years later, Tatsuno passed away during the Spanish Flu pandemic, but it goes without saying that his disciples, led by Tanaka, carried on his legacy and brought further development to Japanese architecture.

Tatsuno Kingo not only introduced European architecture to Japan, but also led the way in establishing the profession of architect and passing it on to future generations. Without him, who elevated modern architecture to a uniquely Japanese style, rather than simply imitating foreign architecture, Japanese architecture would likely have been completely different.

Tatsuno architecture has always been there in this rapidly changing world. Experiencing this unchanging beauty may be an experience that busy modern people need.

■Articles related to architecture

Le Corbusier's Architectural Works - Outstanding Contributions to the Modern Movement

This program explains the characteristics and appeal of "The Architectural Works of Le Corbusier - An Outstanding Contribution to the Modern Movement," which was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016. It also introduces the highlights of the National Museum of Western Art in Ueno, Tokyo, one of the assets that make up the site.

ontrip.jal.co.jp

First posted on June 30, 2017