A trip to the Tohoku region, exploring the footsteps of Yanagita Kunio and enjoying delicious food. An exciting workcation in Tono, Iwate Prefecture

Tono City in Iwate Prefecture once flourished as a castle town, and is a place that still retains the atmosphere of a good old rural village in the mountains. When I visited the Satoyama area on business from Tokyo, the air, combined with the misty air, felt cool and comfortable.

It is said that Kunio Yanagita, who visited this area in 1909, came into contact with the local folklore and decided to write "The Tales of Tono". Since then, many aspiring scholars have retraced the route while also conducting fieldwork. Perhaps this was similar to the idea of workation, which combines work and tourism.

Follow in the footsteps of Kunio Yanagita at the Tono Monogatari Museum

One of the best places to follow in his footsteps is the Tono Monogatari Museum in the center of Tono city. The Folktale Warehouse, an exhibition facility themed on the folklore of Tono, features a line-up of fun exhibits themed on nostalgic folk tales such as The Crane's Return and Kachikachi Mountain.

A must-see is the former Takazen Ryokan, which was Yanagita's regular lodging during his lifetime and still stands today. In addition to Yanagita, Orikuchi Shinobu and Nevsky stayed in the guest rooms on the second floor, and the inn was used as a base for folklore research.

The house in Seijo, Setagaya Ward where he spent his later years has been relocated to the premises, and his study and other buildings are on display just as they were at the time.

In addition, three times a day, a storyteller will recite a folk tale. The story begins with the opening line, "Once upon a time, there was a man called Mugashi Choja Don..." and tells the story of the "Zashiki-warashi" (a spirit that lives in the house), a legend in Tono. Takahashi Nobu's narration is soft and gentle in the Iwate dialect. His narration is gentle and heartwarming, and you can't help but listen to it.

The House of Tales

You might encounter the red monster of Tono legend at "Kappabuchi"

It is said that red kappa live in Tono. There is an object like this in the rotary in front of the station, but if you have time, why not head over to Kappa-buchi, where you are said to encounter a kappa?

The murmuring of the river in the thick brush lets sunlight filter through the trees here and there, and the only sound you can hear is the sound of the river echoing in the silence. It's mysterious because it makes you feel like maybe a kappa might show up.

Kappa-buchi

If you want to set up a work base in Tono, try "Commons Space"

One of the benefits of workcation is that you can freely set your work base, but if you want a desk where you can work comfortably, you might want to use the "Commons Space." One-time use costs 500 yen per hour. If you're staying for a long time and want to visit multiple times, you can use it as much as you like for 3,000 yen per month.

"We welcome locals, people who have relocated here, and people on a short-term workation. Wi-Fi, projectors, monitors, and other amenities are available, and there are free drinks. We have a bean shop that roasts its own coffee, so you can have them make you some. We also have tableware made by Mashiko artists, and they will cook for you. If we don't have a reservation, you can also use the room next door or the second floor."

This was explained to us by Community Manager Nana Terui. The interior, which has a calm yet sophisticated atmosphere, was designed and planned by an architect living in Mashiko, Tochigi Prefecture.

"I perform Kagura dance, and many of the users are interested in that. We aim to be deeply involved in the local community, so we would be happy if a variety of people could learn about the charms of the region and the various activities it offers. Tono is large, and there are many interesting places not only in the center but also in the surrounding villages. When you see them, you can get a sense of why 'The Tales of Tono' were created. A day or two would be just regular sightseeing, so we would like people to stay for a longer period, such as for workcations. I think you will be able to experience the fear and wonder of nature."

Commons Space (rental space/coworking space)

Auberge "Tonoya Kaname" where you can enjoy the true pleasure of fermented foods in a course meal

Even though it was a business trip, it was still a trip. It's good to enjoy it at your own pace. I visited the auberge "Tonoya Kaname" near the center of Tono.

Known as an auberge that is difficult to book, this inn only accepts one group per day. The accommodation area that can be used freely is spacious and includes two bedrooms, a Western-style room and a Japanese-style room, and the loft on the second floor can also be used as a living room.

As I finished up the work I'd brought with me to my room, I found myself feeling excited because a wonderful dining experience was waiting for me. The restaurant was reserved for dinner time, and I could enjoy an interesting approach to fermented foods.

A refined Japanese breakfast is delicious and thought-provoking

The next morning, I was surprised to find my stomach growling even though I had eaten so much the night before, as if to say, "What will the food be like from now on?" In stark contrast to the rich, genre-bending lineup from the night before, a proper Japanese breakfast appeared.

First, we had a salad of cucumber and bracken, which was simple yet surprisingly flavorful, and I was completely awakened by it.

The rice is "Tono Ichigo", pesticide-free rice, cooked in a pot. It is accompanied by an assortment of local vegetables, cauliflower, moonflower (the ingredient used to make kanpyo), donko shiitake mushrooms, butterbur, and miso made with smelt. The highlight of the meal is the pickled scallops. They are grilled just right on the outside, and the inside is sticky and creamy.

Freshly caught this morning, grilled bell peppers are simply seasoned with bonito flakes and soy sauce. The flavor is strong even down to the seeds, and they are juicy. You can feel their powerful vitality. Dried overnight rock trout are firm, as you would expect from a seasonal fish, but also well-fattened, and have a sinful presence that makes them perfect for rice. In addition, miso soup made with Sanriku krill and wild mitsuba (Japanese parsley) seems to seep into your every last fiber.

Deeply moving "delicious" dishes created by a chef from Tono

"The miso we use at home is made by fermenting miso used to pickle vegetables, and it has been made to retain the flavors of various vegetables. Traditional miso uses a generous amount of salt. It may seem salty, but you can adjust the amount used when cooking."

So says the owner, Yotaro Sasaki. His cooking philosophy is full of surprises. Sasaki's "delicious food" is also reflected in his approach that questions common sense. For example, he overturns the common perception that "newly harvested rice is the best."

"Tono Ichigo is aged rice. The culture of considering new rice delicious is not even 100 years old. Today, delicious rice means rice that is sweet and has a high sugar content. Thanks to advances in breeding, rice today has been thoroughly fertilized to store up sugar, so it certainly tastes good, but it oxidizes and quickly loses flavor. However, old rice has less flavor, so letting it sit over the winter makes it taste better. Our rice is not fertilized and is thin, but it's healthy. It's delicious old-fashioned rice that becomes tastier the more it sits."

However, this type of rice is not widely available.So he decided to grow it himself, and has been doing so for 20 years without using any pesticides.Insects and birds that had left have returned, and herbs and wild strawberries are now growing naturally.

"My idea of what is delicious may be a little different. I think deliciousness comes from complexity, from having elements that you can think about while eating. A dish that simply increases the main components of umami is simply 'delicious.' But the sensation of 'delicious' is rich in complex flavors. That's what I'm aiming for."

"Delicious" includes not only the taste but also the aroma, depth, and story. Aroma is also an element of taste, and the carefully prepared vinegar has a salty taste. The spirit of inquiry into food, which even feels modest, is also reflected in the design of the space. In Tono, he thought there was no need to decorate it as flashy as a restaurant in an urban area.

"Virtues that are connected to a high level of spirituality are important, and there is no need to imitate big cities. For example, I think the beauty of northern countries in terms of space is their darkness. I realized this about seven years ago when a chef in Kyoto pointed it out to me. Being natural is also something to be proud of."

While it could be described with flowery words like "it's hard to get a reservation" and "an approach never seen before," Tonoya Kaname offers deeply moving food in a relaxed atmosphere and a truly relaxing and enriching experience.

Tonoya Kaname

A visit to Tono Furusato Village is sure to bring you a sense of peace

What kind of place is Tono, the place that nurtured traditions and food culture? Tono Furusato Village is the perfect place to get a glimpse of it.

Even if it is not the familiar scenery from childhood, the Satoyama scenery that deeply moves the viewer's heart remains here. The gently sloping rice paddy roads and fields, old thatched houses in the distance, livestock grazing peacefully beside them. All you can hear is the murmuring of the river and the turning of the waterwheel. What an exquisite location.

You can also see the "Maburito (guardians)" who protect the culture and traditions of Tono. At "Tono Furusato Village," you can experience farming and experience the nature and simple human kindness of Tono.

It's fun to just drop in and work in a space far removed from your everyday life. There are raised floors in old houses all over the place. You might get some inspiration that wouldn't have come to you in the office or at home.

Tono Furusato Village

"Gondohare" in the dazzling Tono. A unique workcation

The reason why Kunio Yanagita was fascinated by the place and gave this chef, who has built a first-class career, such a great realization is because the place called Tono is special. I can't help but think so. The breadth of Satoyama exceeds our imagination. There is no doubt that Kunio Yanagita was passionate about this place because he was moved by it every time he came into contact with it.

With these thoughts in mind, this workcation trip ended with a "gondohare." In the dialect that Takahashi-san taught me as he told me old stories, the word "gondohare" means "the end," as in "brushing off the straw (gondo) from your clothes to finish work." It was here that I said goodbye to Tono, but I felt a reluctance to leave.

Why not take your work with you and travel to your faraway hometown? You will surely find a simple, unique and rich experience that has remained unchanged since ancient times.

*Some content was revised on November 22, 2021.

Related article

Click here to apply for JAL Pack Workcation