Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.
We head to Kagoshima, a city that has suddenly become the center of attention thanks to the TV drama "Saigo Don."
The start of the journey to Kagoshima. It was still dark on the first flight, and by the time we took off, it was finally bright with the morning sun. The day before departure was a full moon, so we were able to see the full moon before the morning glow spread.
From Kagoshima Airport, take the airport bus to Kagoshima Chuo Station. The station's landmark is a large Ferris wheel, and this is the station we will be focusing on for our trip.
Once you've dropped off your luggage at the hotel, it's time to head out! Take the train from Kagoshima Chuo Station to Ijuin Station. We're going to see a Satsuma ware workshop.
There is an equestrian statue at Ijuin Station! I thought I had seen this statue somewhere before...! (For more details, see the photo caption)
The first day of your trip to Kagoshima begins with a short trip to the "Home of Satsuma Pottery."
On the flight from Haneda, I was able to enjoy the combination of the sunrise and the full moon.
This year, Mt. Fuji has less snow on its peak. The morning sun makes it look pink.
In Kagoshima, the tour starts from Kagoshima Chuo Station. There is a Ferris wheel on the roof of the station!
Chuo Station is the starting point for journeys to various parts of Kyushu, including conventional trains and the Shinkansen. There are also plenty of souvenir shops in the "Omiyage Yokocho" area.
There were many shops selling "Satsumaage" (fried fish cakes). You can buy them from just one piece.
There is also a free seating area in the souvenir alley, perfect for a hot, freshly fried snack.
"Yakimorokoshi" from "Kyujiki", which has many original satsumaage, is a popular product that won the Prefectural Governor's Award at a product fair.
After satisfying our hunger, we started traveling by train to Miyama, where many Satsuma ware kilns are located.
Kyushu trains are simply stylish! Even though the ride takes just a few minutes, it's still worth riding.
The headrests are covered in leather. This is the train that students usually ride on their way to school. Kyushu Railway has great potential.
Get off at Ijuin Station in Hioki City. From here, transfer to a local bus.
I got a booklet about Miyama at the tourist information center in front of the station and was given information about distances and places of interest. They were very helpful!
In front of the station is a statue of Shimazu Yoshihiro, a military commander of the Satsuma Province. He protected the potters he brought back from Korea and had them produce Satsuma ware. I thought to myself, "I've seen this statue before..."
Wow! It looks just like the "Kikuchi Takemitsu Equestrian Statue" I saw in Kikuchi City, Kumamoto Prefecture! That's because it was made by the same person. It was sculptor Shinya Nakamura. (Left: Shimazu Yoshihiro Equestrian Statue in front of Ijuin Station, Right: Kikuchi Takemitsu Equestrian Statue in Kikuchi City)
Transfer from JR to a local bus and head to see the hometown of Satsuma ware.
Transfer to a bus from Ijuin Station. If you make a good transfer from the airport, you can get to "Miyama" from Kagoshima Chuo Station by bus. However, traffic congestion is expected in the city, and you may not arrive on time.
The first place we visited was Chinjukan Kiln, a studio I really wanted to visit.
Satsuma ware has become well-known not only in Japan but also overseas.
This craft took root in this area thanks to the many technicians and potters brought back from Korea by Shimazu Yoshihiro of the Satsuma Domain. The Korean potters opened kilns in this small village deep in the mountains and, using local materials, produced gorgeous, world-famous pottery. The techniques have been passed down for 400 years, and continue to be passed down to the present day.
"White Satsuma" was a product for the feudal domain. It was made mainly as furniture, with a white base decorated with delicate painting, decoration and carvings.
On the other hand, "Black Satsuma" was made for everyday use as household items for the general public. It is simple but has a beautiful black luster, and is popular for its ease of use and familiarity.
Chin Jukan Kiln is involved in the production of both white and black porcelain, and both processes can be observed in the workshop.
I boarded the bus that runs once an hour, heading for Miyama bus stop.
The Miyama area is where potters from Korea settled, and before long it became a place where many craft studios and cafes were gathered.
"Chinjukan Kiln." Located right in front of the Miyama bus stop. It is a Satsuma ware kiln that has inherited 400 years of history and continues to pass on its techniques to the present day.
We went through the impressive gate and entered the building. This time, we will be touring the production site. We can see the pottery wheel and the painting site.
The Chin family heirlooms are housed in a magnificent storehouse, housing precious works and documents from the generations of the family, as well as items related to the pottery. The well-maintained garden is also beautiful, offering seasonal views.
"White Satsuma" is porcelain-like in color. It is decorated with intricate and gorgeous paintings and was made for the feudal domain.
"Black Satsuma" was made primarily as tableware and everyday utensils for common people.
White Satsuma ware is made from grey clay and is currently fired in gas kilns at high temperatures.
On the other hand, black Satsuma ware is made from red clay that contains a lot of iron, and is fired at a higher temperature, resulting in sturdy ware with a rustic appearance.
Carving white Satsuma. The moisture is adjusted with a wet towel. By not only painting but also carving the ruggedness and design, the finished product is more elegant, luxurious, and full of dignity.
A white Satsuma incense burner. The carving is intricately crafted to perfection. The painting is like looking at a high-quality kimono.
The carving has a softness like that of a woven net basket. White Satsuma, packed with this delicate technique, was exhibited at the Satsuma clan's booth at the Paris World's Fair in 1867. Since then, it has been called "SATSUMA" in Europe and has become a huge hit.
The fine cracks that appear in the glaze on the surface of white Satsuma are called "kannyu." These incalculable cracks are perceived as individuality and appreciated as part of the texture and feel, and are considered to be the unique beauty of white Satsuma.
Black Satsuma is solid and lustrous, simple yet striking. It is a warm piece that feels comfortable in the hand.
Chinjukan Kiln produces both white and black Satsuma ware. Black Satsuma was the mainstream until the Edo period.
Sorakyu is a shochu vessel. You can't put this vessel down until you've finished drinking it all. When it's poured, you have to drink it quickly, hence the name. It seems like a perfect souvenir from Kagoshima!
A climbing kiln on the premises. When you hear that it is fired three times a year, you get a sense of the scale of Chinjukan Kiln. The kiln fires black Satsuma pottery at a temperature of 1,200 degrees using pine trees that have fallen due to typhoons. The climbing kiln has an eco-friendly structure in which heat is gradually transferred from the lowest kiln to the kiln above.
The workshop building. 25 young craftsmen from all over Japan work here. I was able to see and feel everything about Satsuma ware.
Cafes, tea fields, shrines. Stroll through the beautiful mountain town of Miyama.
Miyama is home to many Satsuma ware potteries, and also has many lovely cafes, making it a fun place to spend some time relaxing. A short walk away is the tea fields, and beyond that is an old shrine.
In addition to pottery, there are also various craft workshops and general stores where you can shop, and there are also many historical sites and famous places within walking distance.
There are only one bus per hour, but on the flipside, there are quiet townscapes that are different from the city center and plenty of cafes where you can spend plenty of time, making it a place worth going out of your way to visit.
It was a day trip from Kagoshima Chuo Station to the home of Satsuma pottery, which supported the finances of the Satsuma domain and was the foundation of its prosperity.
We will have lunch at the cafe "Natsunoniwa".
It had a chic look.
A cafe and miscellaneous goods store. They also offer take-out drinks, so it's nice to stroll around Miyama with a coffee in hand.
Curry topped with plenty of vegetables, served in Satsuma ware of course.
A coconut-based curry with pumpkin. A mild curry roux with a strong pumpkin flavor.
The sophisticated space and simple interior make it a relaxing place to spend time. There were many people having lunch and chatting happily. The homemade cakes looked delicious too.
We went to the Miyama Touyukan, where you can see works from many different studios all at once.
You can experience pottery using the potter's wheel and hand-kneading techniques. You can learn Miyama's techniques while enjoying the feel of the clay.
There is a studio inside the Miyama Touyukan. It is called "Modern Satsuma." Modern designs can be expressed in Satsuma ware using colorful glazes.
Using the short time before the return bus, we walked a little further into Miyama. This was Tamayama Shrine.
At the top of a long hill stands a second torii gate. This shrine has been carefully worshipped here for many years as a spiritual home for the potters who were brought here from Korea.
A typical view of Kagoshima, a tea-producing region. We proceed through the vast expanses of large tea fields.
From the low torii gate, you walk along the moss-covered path to the shrine.
It was originally a Korean-style building, but is now a Japanese-style shrine that was rebuilt during the Taisho period.
When walking around Miyama, you can feel the breath of the culmination of ceaseless effort that has been passed down through the generations. Satsuma ware, which was highly praised overseas and produced in large quantities as an export item, became the foundation of the Satsuma domain's finances. And even today, these traditional techniques are synonymous with Kagoshima.
Read the second part here
The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.
