This time, we will take you on a relaxing trip around the Kaetsu region of Niigata Prefecture. We will introduce a trip that will refresh your mind and body using public transportation and rental bicycles.

Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.

First day
- Arrived at Niigata Station. Rent a bicycle and head to Bandai Bridge.
- Arriving at Hakusan Shrine. Calm your mind and pray for a safe journey.
- Stroll around Hakusan Park
- Soup and bread lunch at Furumachi cafe "Palm"
- Take the free shuttle bus to Murasugi Onsen in Gozu Onsen Town, then stop by Lake Hyoko to watch the swans.
- Rent a bicycle to "Yasuda Kawara Road" and "Yasuda Yogurt"
- Enjoy hot springs and meals at Murasugi Onsen Choseikan
Second day
9:00 Arrive at Niigata Station. Rent a bicycle and head to Bandai Bridge.
For a half-day tour of Niigata City, rent a bicycle. Rent a bicycle at Ishimiya Bicycle Parking Lot, a few minutes' walk from the Bandai Exit of Niigata Station. Head to Hakusan Shrine via Bandai Bridge over the Shinano River. Bandai Bridge is the third bridge built in the early Showa period. At the foot of the bridge, there are various signs and monuments explaining the construction method and history.

After renting a bicycle in front of Niigata Station, your first destination is Bandai Bridge.

Bicycles can be rented at the Ishimiya Park Underground Bicycle Parking Lot, a few minutes' walk from the Bandai Exit of Niigata Station. A one-time registration fee of 200 yen is required, followed by a 6-hour rental for 300 yen, and an additional hour for 100 yen.

Much further ahead (towards the station) than the Bandai Bridge, there was the main pillar of the old Bandai Bridge. The old Bandai Bridge was longer and the river was wider than it is now, so it seems that the bridge once started where the main pillar stands.

This is Bandai Bridge. It is currently in its third generation and has been designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan due to its excellent design and the structural technology used at the time of its construction.

This is a beautiful six-arch bridge spanning the Shinano River. The "Yasuragi Tsutsumi" promenade runs along the river, where you can take your time to admire the bridge's structure, design, and the granite used throughout the bridge from below.

The Bandai Bridge's old lighting has been restored and installed at regular intervals. LED lighting has also been installed on the railings, and the bridge is lit up at night. When the curtains of night come down and the bridge is reflected in the Shinano River, it leaves an impression that it is a symbolic bridge of Niigata.
Niigata Bicycle Rental Ishimiya Park Underground Bicycle Parking Lot | ||
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address | : | 1-1-20 Benten, Chuo Ward, Niigata City |
phone | : | 025-249-1480 |
web | : | http://www.niigata-sbp.com/ |
9:30 Arrive at Hakusan Shrine. Calm your mind and pray for a safe and happy journey.
Hakusan Shrine is a historic shrine located in Hakusan Park in Niigata City's Chuo Ward, and is one of the most famous shrines in Niigata Prefecture. Many people visit the shrine hoping to receive various blessings, such as business success, financial luck, fertility, and safe childbirth.
The main deity, Kukurihime-no-Okami, has the power to make connections between people. She is the god who makes all kinds of connections, including health, work, family, and friendship. Many people also visit the shrine to pray for love success and marital bliss, hoping to be the go-between for men and women.
A cute family of rabbits was looking in the direction of us from above the Ema Hanging Area, where heart-shaped votive plaques praying for love are displayed.

Leaving Bandai Bridge behind, we head to Hakusan Shrine, one of the most famous shrines in Niigata Prefecture.

Niigata had an unusually light winter with little snow. It was a clear day.

At the back of the approach to the shrine is the Zuishinmon Gate, and once you pass through it the main hall will appear.

The main deities enshrined in the main hall of Hakusan Shrine are Kukurihime-no-Okami, Izanagi-no-Mikoto, and Izanami-no-Mikoto. Kukurihime-no-Okami is often interpreted as "Kukuri" (binding), and in the Japanese historical book "Nihon Shoki," it is said that she reconciled the couple Izanagi-no-Mikoto and Izanami-no-Mikoto, and is therefore said to be the goddess of matchmaking.

Kukurihime-no-Okami, also known as Hakusan Hime-no-Okami, was enshrined in Niigata as the god who protects the sacred mountain of Hakusan. The Hakusan Kukuri Stone in the precincts is a stone that was cut from the mountain and is used to receive the power of Hakusan. Why not join your hands in front of this stone and place your hands on the stone to feel the power of Hakusan through the stone?

There is a cute rabbit family on the ema hanging rack where heart-shaped ema are tied. I often saw people praying for love and family harmony, taking photos as a souvenir and then leaving.
Hakusan Shrine | ||
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address | : | Niigata Prefecture, Niigata City, Chuo Ward, Ichibanhoridoricho 1-1 |
phone | : | 025-228-2963 |
web | : | http://www.niigatahakusanjinja.or.jp/ |
10:00 Stroll around Hakusan Park
Hakusan Park, where Hakusan Shrine is located, was one of the first parks in Japan established and built by the government in the early Meiji period. Niigata was given permission to build one there under an edict that called for it to be built in a "populous, scenic spot where many people gather," and so the national park "Hakusan Park" was born.
Enkikan, part of the mansion of the Saito family, wealthy merchants who prospered through Kitamae-bune shipping, was relocated within the park and is open to the public free of charge.
The park is full of nature and has many attractions, such as the statue of Masataka Kusumoto, who developed Hakusan Park, the statue of Tama-kun, the loyal dog who saved his owner twice, a plum grove, a fountain, and a pond with a bridge. It is a park where anyone who visits can relax.

Hakusan Park is a park that was established in 1873 based on a national official document on the grounds of the former Hakusan Shrine.

The person who created Japan's first national public park was Masataka Kusumoto, who was serving as the prefectural governor of Niigata (now the prefecture's governor), and there is a bronze statue of him within the park.

There is also a bronze statue of "Tama-kun, the faithful dog." Tama-kun is more famous than Hachi-kun in Niigata because he saved his owner from an avalanche twice. There is also a bronze statue of Tama-kun inside Niigata Station, so be sure to look for it.

Within Hakusan Park, there is the Enkikan, a part of the mansion left behind by the wealthy merchant Saito family. You can visit this place for free.

A shiny corridor. This building was mainly used to welcome guests, and the original house was about five times larger than this one.

The "inner room" is made up of three rooms connected together, and the further back you go the more prestigious it becomes. It is made of high-quality wood that is hard to come by these days, creating a classy space.
Hakusan Park | ||
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address | : | Niigata Prefecture, Niigata City, Chuo Ward, Ichibanhoridoricho 1-2 |
web | : | https://niigata-kankou.or.jp/spot/16002 |
11:00 Lunch of soup and bread at the cafe "Palm" in Furumachi
Furumachi in Niigata is an area lined with shopping streets and many restaurants. In some cases, the area also includes Hakusan Shrine.
As I was cycling through the shopping district, a small sign caught my eye. Beyond the sign was a narrow alleyway, and the shop was on the second floor, up some stairs.
The name of this shop is "Palm". It is a coffee shop owned by a lovely lady who has been operating here for 45 years. The warm lighting creates a warm space, and the amber leather chairs and spacious tables create a high-quality atmosphere.
There are two types of blended coffee: sour and bitter. For lunch, there are soup and sandwich sets and curry.
The interior of the shop has a nostalgic atmosphere that makes you feel like it has been there since the 70's, and you can be sure that everyone will have a relaxing time here. It is sure to be an irresistible space for those who love traditional coffee shops and retro stores.

I found a nice coffee shop in Furumachi, Niigata. Kaffa Palm is a long-established shop located down an alley and up a flight of stairs.

The moment you enter the amber-colored space, time seems to flow more slowly and calmly. The well-used counter gives off an atmosphere that makes you feel as if it is telling many stories from history.

The shop started out as a coffee specialty store, but when they noticed a demand for lunch, they started serving it. Since then, in addition to the regulars who come to enjoy coffee, the number of customers who come for lunch has increased.

The standard lunch, "Soup and Brown Rice Sandwich Lunch," is a menu of a sandwich with a side dish sandwiched between soft and easy-to-eat brown rice bread, and minestrone soup with plenty of vegetables. It also comes with a small salad and coffee for 750 yen, making it a very good and delicious lunch.

Following on from Hakusan Shrine, I was able to spend a relaxing time here that felt like it healed my soul. "Relaxing time" when traveling is very precious.

I'm glad that it's open until 9pm. I'll definitely go there next time I'm in Niigata.
KAFFA Palm | ||
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address | : | 2nd floor, Misawa Building, 987, Furumachi-dori 6-ban-cho, Chuo-ku, Niigata City, Niigata Prefecture |
phone | : | 025-228-2050 |
business hours | : | 9:30-21:00 (until 16:00 on Wednesdays) |
13:30 Board the free shuttle bus to Gozu Onsen Village and Murasugi Onsen. Stop by Lake Hyoko to watch the swans.
The lodging for the night was Murasugi Onsen in Gozu Onsenkyo. Choseikan, where I stayed, offers free shuttle service from Niigata Station. For example, it's nice not to have to drive on unfamiliar snowy roads, even in the snowy season. What's more, there is a service where the shuttle bus will stop by Lake Hyoko, which you pass on the way, during the season when swans fly there. Choseikan is about 60 minutes from Niigata Station, including the stopover, so it is a hot spring close to the city.
The Echigo Plain in Niigata Prefecture boasts the highest number of swans in Japan. Swans are birds that land on vast plains (rice fields), lakes, and swamps to avoid being targeted by predators. Lake Hyoko is a comfortable place for swans to live.
Lake Hyoko is a Ramsar Convention registered wetland, a designated natural monument and a wildlife sanctuary, and is a national conservation area for wild birds. It is a natural and safe place for wild birds to sleep.
The swans that come here to spend the winter stay here until late March, when they return to Siberia. Lake Hyoko is the first lake in Japan where wild swans were successfully fed, and the sight of the swans being fed is often featured in the news and has become a seasonal feature.
The swans floating on the lake are very cute and are used to people. There are also over a dozen species of ducks, as well as seagulls, herons and other wild birds floating on the lake, creating a spectacular sight.
Wild birds aren't the only attraction at Lake Hyoko. In spring, forsythia and rows of cherry blossoms bloom, and from early summer to summer, irises and lotus flowers bloom, coloring the lakeside one after another, making it a lake you can enjoy all year round.

Return to Niigata Station and board the free shuttle bus to your accommodation for the night, Murasugi Onsen Choseikan. The bus will pick you up at the rotary at the south exit of Niigata Station.

Before going to the hot spring town, we stop by Lake Hyoko, a place where swans migrate. This is one of the main attractions for everyone.

Lake Hyoko is a lake where as many as 10,000 swans visit in some years. Although it is an artificial lake, it is a safe place for migratory birds to sleep and also a feeding ground, and many wild birds come to rest their wings.

It is said that more than a dozen types of ducks, including mallards, spot-billed ducks, and tufted ducks, fly in here.

During the day, most of the ducks are there, and in the seasons when there is no snow, the swans eat in the nearby rice fields. They return in the evening.

Towards evening, the swans returned to Lake Hyoko one after another. There is a feeding service at a fixed time at Lake Hyoko, where feeding has been successful, but there was no feeding on this day.

Even though they are wild, the swans come quite close to us. It seems that the swans at Lake Hyoko are very used to people.
Lake Hyoko | ||
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address | : | 313-1 Mizuhara, Agano City, Niigata Prefecture |
web | : | https://niigata-kankou.or.jp/spot/10803 |
14:30 Rent a bicycle to "Yasuda Kawara Road" and "Yasuda Yogurt"
When we arrived at Choseikan, we left our luggage and immediately went out for a walk around the neighborhood.
A five-minute walk from the inn is "Gozusanroku Urara no Mori," a facility with a local product shop, restaurant, and tourist information center. I was captivated by the white, smooth-skinned green onions and perfectly shaped Chinese cabbages being sold at low prices... I rented a bicycle here and headed for the spot that caught my eye.
This course takes you to the Yasuda area, where the headquarters factory and shop of Yasuda Yogurt, popular for its thick yogurt, are located, and then back.
Yasuda district has long been a town that developed as a tile production area, and was once lined with dozens of tile factories. However, as time has passed and tiles are no longer used for houses, the number of workshops that make art pieces and accessories for daily use while keeping the same tile manufacturing methods is on the rise. Yasuda Tile Road is a place where such tile art is displayed on the side of the road and in various other spots.
There are various objects on display that have been created using a variety of ingenious techniques, such as tiles mixed into plaster to create patterns, or tiles stacked on top of each other.
What particularly caught my eye was a cute cat sculpture placed on the wall. It is a work that captures the cat's movements as if it were alive. In fact, the rabbit family at Hakusan Shrine that I visited in the morning was also a work of Murahide Onigawara Koubou. As the name suggests, Murahide Onigawara Koubou is a company that manufactures Yasuda tile "demon tiles". The tile sculptures of little demons and animals are made using the same onigawara manufacturing method, and are apparently very popular products.
Yasuda Kawara Road is also home to a tile monument, a bus stop made entirely of tiles, and a rest area called the Kawara Terrace, making it a fun road where you can see and casually come into contact with tiles while cycling.
And finally we arrive at the Yasuda Yogurt headquarters factory. The Yasuda area is the birthplace of dairy farming in Niigata Prefecture.
Yasuda Yogurt is a company that uses raw milk from dairy cows raised in rich nature and clean water, and through extensive research into product development, creates delicious dairy products with a unique richness. If you make a reservation, you can also take a tour of the factory, and shop at the shop next to the factory, which sells a variety of products made with dairy products.
This charming shop is filled with sweets that can only be found in Niigata Prefecture and has an eat-in area where you can eat the sweets on the spot. They also offer local delivery of gifts.

We arrived at the elegant inn Choseikan in Murasugi Onsen, Gozu Onsen Village. After dropping off our luggage, we immediately headed to the Yasuda area on a rental bicycle.

You can walk to "Urara Forest at the Foot of Mt. Gozu" from the inn.

In Urara Forest, there is a "Yuuki Fureai Sokkotsu" where you can buy vegetables grown in Agano City. Agano City is an area that has been working on organic vegetable cultivation for a long time. You can get fresh, high-quality vegetables at a very reasonable price!

There are also souvenir shops and cafe restaurants.

You can rent a bicycle by visiting the Information Center in Urara Forest.

This time, my destination was the Yasuda Yogurt shop. On the way to Yasuda Yogurt, I passed by Yasuda Kawara Road.

Yasuda district is also a tile production area. Along Yasuda Tile Road, various tile art is exhibited alongside a row of tile factories.

The little demon and cat ornaments at Murahide Oni Tile Workshop are truly humorous and adorable.

This unusual bus stop made of tiles is located in front of Marusan Yasuda Tile Factory. It is made by combining Yasuda's iron-colored tiles and red tiles.

We also stopped by Kawara Terrace, which was developed as the base of Yasuda Kawara Road.

The clean exterior makes it easy for young people to drop in. It has a stylish cafe style. There is also a large parking lot.

The highlight is the back of the building. It is tilted so that you can see the roof tiles up close. It's not often that you get to see a roof from the side, so it's a strange experience.

Right in front of the tile terrace is the Yasuda Tile Cooperative, which has an outdoor tile exhibition that is open for free.

Here you can learn about Yasuda tiles and also purchase tiles.

Finally, we arrived! We headed to the shop located inside the Yasuda Yogurt headquarters.

The familiar Yasuda yogurt is sold in the store.

I bought a cake from Bakery Leche, which makes bread and baked goods using the starter culture used by Yasuda Yogurt. It is a fragrant baked yogurt cake with the flavor of cultured butter.
16:45 Enjoy hot springs and a meal at Murasugi Onsen Choseikan
The spring quality of Murasugi Onsen, where this inn is located, is "radioactive spring." It is a "natural radium hot spring" that contains "radon," which is said to be effective against all diseases. It has been reported that by bathing in the hot spring and inhaling the steam containing radon or absorbing it through the skin, the organs in the body are activated and it becomes easier to regulate the body.
The spacious grounds are used to make the most of the 23 rooms and two annex buildings. The entrance and lobby are spacious, and the rooms are also spacious enough.
From the lounge, you can see and stroll through the beautiful garden where Nishikigoi carp swim. All the guest rooms have a view of the garden, which is the pride of the inn. I decided to spend the morning strolling through the garden, and enjoy dinner and a bath that day.
The evening meal was a Japanese kaiseki course meal. The head chef had trained at a famous restaurant in Tokyo, and the dishes were carefully prepared. We enjoyed a variety of local delicacies, including blackthroat seaperch, Echizen crab, and Niigata black wagyu beef.

After our stroll around the Yasuda area, we returned to our lodging.

The room we stayed in that day was a spacious Japanese-style room. There were beautiful flowers arranged on the tokonoma alcove, which the staff prepares every day.

All 23 rooms and two detached buildings at Choseikan face the garden, allowing you to enjoy the Japanese-style garden in all four seasons.

Dinner, one of Choseikan's specialties, was served in a private room.

The banquet was prepared by a chef who had trained at one of Japan's most famous restaurants. It was a sumptuous meal that included fresh seafood from Niigata, blackthroat seaperch, Japanese beef, snow crab, and more.

A special winter menu item: Snow Crab. The sweet, juicy meat of snow crab is tightly packed into the shell, and it's irresistible!

The fat of the Nodoguro was great. I thoroughly enjoyed the bounty of the Sea of Japan.
Gozu Onsen Village Elegant Inn Choseikan | ||
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address | : | 4632 Murasugi, Agano City, Niigata Prefecture |
phone | : | 0250-66-2111 |
web | : | https://www.chouseikan.co.jp/ |
The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.