Deeper Kumamoto you don't know about - One year since the full line reopened! A leisurely trip on the Minamiaso Railway

Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihon Sha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihon Sha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.

A fun journey on the Minamiaso Railway, experiencing the great outdoors of Aso

The Minamiaso Railway suffered extensive damage in the 2016 Kumamoto earthquake, with some sections suspended for long periods of time.
The earthquake caused serious damage to railways, including the large-scale collapse of bridges and damage to roadbeds, tracks, stations, and tunnels. Although some services resumed one year after the earthquake, it took seven years for the entire line to be restored.
However, thanks to the efforts and support of many people, the entire line was restored in 2023, and has become a symbol of great joy and hope for the local area. The line, which runs through the caldera on the southern side of Mount Aso, is a tourist resource full of travel atmosphere and also plays a major role in the local area.

From Kumamoto Station, take the JR Hohi Main Line to Tateno Station, where you can transfer to the Minamiaso Railway. At Tateno Station, the JR line makes a switchback, and the Minamiaso Railway gradually gains altitude towards Takamori Station. The sight of a single carriage running through the idyllic scenery is part of the Minamiaso landscape, and many people will find it nostalgic. The trolley train in particular is popular with tourists, and inbound tourists have been seen on the train recently.
The recovery was greatly influenced by the requests of the local community and collaboration between industry, government and academia. Experts pooled their ideas and discussed not only disaster recovery but also sustainable local transportation. As a result, efforts were made not only to rebuild infrastructure but also to revitalize the entire region. For example, new and unique stations with cafes and second-hand bookstores were created, and they are now famous attractions along the line that tourists enjoy.
Tourism resources are also being developed, and these facilities are making a significant contribution to the local economy. Many stations have cafes attached, so that tourists don't get bored while waiting for the train. There are many unique stations, such as Minamiaso Mizu no Umareru Sato Hakusui Kogen Station with its long name, Aso Shimodajo Station with its unique features, and Choyo Station, which still has the station building from when it first opened. From the platforms and waiting rooms of each station, you can enjoy great locations with magnificent panoramas of the Aso outer rim.

While new facilities have been built since the disaster, souvenirs that have been popular for a long time remain popular.
The representative of this is "Niko Niko Manju", which has a store in front of Tateno Station, where the Minamiaso Railway and JR lines connect. Since moving to this location in 1916 with the extension of the JR Hohi Main Line, it has been loved by local people for over 100 years.
These manju, with the cute name "Nico Nico Manju," are old-fashioned soul food. They are all handmade in the store, and if you buy them early in the morning, you can receive them while they're still slightly warm. They are small and easy to eat, and although they are flavored with sake yeast, they don't have the distinctive alcoholic taste, making them popular with people of all ages. As they contain no additives, they don't last long, but their simple flavor is special, making them an indispensable snack for locals and tourists alike.

Minamiaso Railway

Minamiaso Railway Trolley Train

Smiling Manju

"Aso Takana Pickles" - A supreme taste nurtured by the local climate

Aso Takana is one of the specialties that represents the Aso region of Kumamoto Prefecture, and is a variety that is unique to the Aso region. The high altitude and climate of Minamiaso, with its large temperature difference between day and night, makes it suitable for growing Takana, and each household grows Aso Takana, which can be enjoyed in its own unique flavor as homemade Takana pickles.

Aso Takana has a richer flavor than the common Takana that is commonly eaten throughout Kyushu. It is a type of mustard green, and has a spicy and slightly bitter taste. Its unique and robust flavor is particularly pronounced when eaten as a pickle. Aso's climatic conditions enhance this flavor, creating a taste that is unique to the Aso region. This vegetable is so deeply connected to the soil and climate that even if the same species is grown in another place, the flavor will be different from Aso Takana.

Aso Takana Pickles are not only a staple on the dinner table, but are also popular as souvenirs in areas along the Minamiaso Railway, such as Minamiaso Village and Takamori Town. Aso Takana, which has thin stems and a crunchy texture, is harvested by hand from the soft parts and mainly processed into pickles. There are two types: "shinzuke," which is lightly salted, and "furuzuke," which is fermented with more salt. "Shinzuke" is a lush, lightly pickled product with a fresh flavor. "Furuzuke," on the other hand, is fermented for a longer period of time, resulting in a deeper, full-bodied flavor.

This time we visited Takamori Town's Aso Marukichi Soy Sauce (Toyozenya Honten Partnership), a miso and soy sauce brewery with a history of about 150 years. They sell "new pickles" in early spring and "old pickles" later, both of which are popular among locals. Sales began in the 1960s, around the time that vacuum packing technology was developed. It all started when they vacuum-packed "Aso Takana Pickles" as a souvenir brand for the region, and offered them in an easy-to-take format. Even now, they receive inquiries from all over the country, and are widely loved as a representative souvenir of Aso.
However, in recent years, the aging of farmers and the effects of climate change have led to a decline in harvest yields, and Aso Takana is becoming increasingly rare. At Kumamoto Airport, there are many Aso Takana pickles on display, so if you bring back a traditional taste of Kumamoto as a souvenir, it's sure to please.

Aso Takana Pickles are delicious when eaten as is, but they are also excellent as an ingredient in cooking.
For example, at the restaurant "Nari" just a few minutes' walk from Takamori Station, their popular menu item is "Takanameshi" made with homemade Aso Takana pickles. Stir-fried with locally grown millet rice, it is an exquisite dish with a crunchy texture and the spiciness of the takana. Every spring, they pickle Aso Takana into a barrel full of pickles and freeze them so they can be used for this "Takanameshi" throughout the year.
At "Oshokudokoro Tada," you can enjoy the local bounty nurtured by the Aso climate in a homely atmosphere. Why not spend a heartwarming moment at this restaurant loved by the locals?

Aso Marukichi Soy Sauce (Toyozenya Honten General Partnership Company)

Restaurant Nari