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Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.
Take a guided tour of the World Heritage Site to the Hidden Christian Village.
We started by bus from Hirado Port Exchange Square, the transportation hub of Hirado where the bus terminal is located. Hirado Island is large, and it would take a long time to get around on your own, and there are many places where you won't understand the meaning of just going there. I felt that it was very meaningful to tour the World Heritage sites accompanied by a guide.
This bus crosses the Ikitsuki Bridge from Hirado Island and arrives on Ikitsuki Island.
When the lord of Ikitsuki Island converted to Christianity, almost all of the island's inhabitants became Christians. However, in the course of the subsequent history of oppression, many of the islanders suffered martyrdom and persecution, leading them down the painful path of being hidden Christians.
While residents placed Shinto altars and Buddhist altars in visible places in their homes, they also set up Christian prayer spaces in the storerooms at the back of their homes. These are called "storeroom gods." The paintings hanging in the storerooms are Japanese paintings, with a strong Buddhist style that is reminiscent of those found in temples. The prayer "Orasho" is also a custom unique to this region. Over the years, the words of prayer taught to them by the padres (priests) were passed down orally, and a single prayer in no particular language was formed.
Those who continued to practice their faith in secret at that time later became affiliated with Japanese Catholicism after the ban on Christianity was lifted. At that time, those who could not give up their long-held beliefs in "Nadogami" and "Orasho," as well as Shinto and Buddhist ceremonies, chose to continue their unique faith methods from when they were in hiding, rather than returning to Catholicism. These people are distinguished by the name "Hidden Christians." It is said that many of these hidden Christians continue to live on Ikitsuki Island even today.
At the Ikitsuki Town Museum, Island Museum, which is a stop on this bus, you can see religious items from the time of hiding, storeroom gods, and fumie (a type of picture taken with a fumie tattoo on a wooden board).
I participated in a bus tour of the World Heritage sites that runs regularly except on Saturdays. For 1,000 yen, you can travel from Hirado Island to Ikitsuki Island and visit the sites while listening to the talks. This is a great deal.
There are many spots that can be viewed from the bus, so don't miss them! The "Father Matara" on this sign is a devoted priest who provided guidance to believers who reverted to Catholicism during the Meiji period and was involved in the construction of the Himosashi Church and the Houki Church in Hirado.
As you pass through the Kawauchi district along the way, you'll suddenly be greeted by a mysterious sight: a row of kamaboko shops.
What is made here is "subo," a steamed kamaboko wrapped in straw. In the past, it was made from straw. When you eat Hirado Champon, you will always find kamaboko with a wavy straw pattern inside.
The World Heritage bus just passes through it, but it's an interesting place to visit on your own!
Finally, the bridge to Ikitsuki Island came into view. There were many hidden Christians on Ikitsuki Island. It is said that by the time missionary work had progressed, almost 100% of the island's residents were Christians.
The 960m long Ikitsuki Bridge opened in 1991, connecting the remote island of Ikitsuki to the Kyushu mainland via the Hirado Bridge on Hirado Island.
Even today, when religious freedom is guaranteed, those who have not reverted to Catholicism and continue to practice their own faith are classified as "Hidden Christians." At "Shima no Yakata," you can learn what religion meant to the Christians of that time.
The storeroom at the back of the house was the place of worship for the people of Ikitsuki. They had a Shinto altar and a Buddhist altar, and kept paintings and holy water in the storeroom behind a door, and secretly maintained their faith by chanting "Orasho." Orasho is a prayer song that has been sung only on Ikitsuki Island.
This is the state of the storeroom god. Since the church building and other buildings had all been destroyed and it was not possible to display crosses or other ornaments, tools of faith were enshrined behind the door.
One of the tools of faith is "holy water," which was the object of prayer. It was used not only for prayer, but also for purification and baptism. This water was collected from Nakaenoshima, located halfway between Hirado Island and Ikitsuki Island.
This is the uninhabited island of Nakaenoshima, a World Heritage Site. The believers of Ikitsuki Island were martyred on this island. The believers call this island "Sanjuwan (meaning St. John)-sama" after one of the martyrs, John (Juwan) Sakamoto Saemon.
The tool called "Otenpensha" was originally a whip used to demonstrate faith by performing penance. It later changed into a tool for purification and has been passed down. Among the unusual customs, this one was a bit shocking to me.
"Omaburi" means a talisman. Omaburi-kiri was held as an event. People desperately tried to inherit the faith that was taught to them when they were evangelized, and it was passed down as tools and rituals like this.
This is a painting called "Okakee" that was displayed as a storeroom god. Although it looks like a Japanese Buddhist painting, it is based on Christian teachings, such as the image of Mary and the Holy Family.
You can also see the "fumie" (stepping pictures). This was my first time seeing the real thing. This is a medal-shaped stepping picture made of copper in a wooden frame. In this way, you can see many valuable materials in the exhibition room on the second floor of Shima-no-Yakata.
The World Heritage Site "Hirado's Sacred Sites and Villages", Kasuga Village, Mount Yasumandake, and Nakaenoshima Island.
From here we finally enter the area that constitutes the World Heritage Site.
"Mt. Yasumandake" was a sacred place for the hidden Christians. In their orasho, the hidden Christians would chant "Lord Yasumandake" and "Lord Yasumandake's inner sanctum" and used it as the basis of their faith. Even before Christianity was introduced, Mt. Yasumandake was a sacred place for both Shinto, which practices nature worship, and Buddhism, which practices faith in Mt. Hakusan, and later it came to be worshiped as an object of prayer by Christians as well.
At first glance, Kasuga Village is a tranquil rural area that you would never realize is a World Heritage Site. It leads to the hiking trail to Mount Yasumandake, and was an area where many hidden Christians lived. Katarina in Kasuga Village displays religious items used by the hidden Christians, which you can see up close.
Another place they worshipped as a sacred place was Nakaenoshima Island. It is an uninhabited island that is generally off-limits to the public, but can be seen from Hirado Island and Ikitsuki Island.
During the persecution of Christians, this was the site of many executions, and it is said that people viewed it as a holy place and would pray facing the island.
Even today, the practice of collecting holy water, "Omizutori," continues. People come ashore to collect the water that seeps out from the rocks, which they then use in religious ceremonies.
In the absence of missionaries or priests to guide them in their faith, the hidden Christians searched for ways to practice their faith and somehow created ways to preserve their faith, such as by visiting the sites of their martyrdom and using existing holy places as places of prayer.
"Kasuga Village and Mount Yasuman" and "Nakaenoshima Island" are recognized as components of the World Heritage Site.
From here, we continued driving to the "Kasuga District." This area, with its idyllic rice field scenery, is also part of the World Heritage Site.
Beyond the rice terraces and beyond the mountains is a faintly visible high mountain called "Yamanadake." This mountain is also an object of worship.
This is a plant called Danjiku, or warm bamboo. The song "Song of Lord Danjiku" is still sung on Ikitsuki Island, and tells the story of a family who tried to escape oppression by hiding in a tall warm bamboo, but were eventually found and executed.
I just couldn't connect the tranquil scenery of Satoyama, which could be found anywhere in Japan, with the tragic history of martyrdom that occurred during the Edo period... For 250 years, they desperately protected what they believed in and passed it on. The more I heard, the more difficult it became, and I wanted to hear more.
The last stop on the World Heritage bus is "Katarina" in the Kasuga district. Here you can see materials related to the hidden Christians and hear the story of their later lives. What's fun is the hospitality of delicious pickled vegetables and fruits made by local mothers.
Please take a look at these delicious pickles! They are so tasty that I really wish they would sell them. I also got to try the first persimmons of the year. I also had the chance to brew a lot of delicious tea.
You should definitely go even if it's difficult! The beautiful brick church, "Tahira Cathedral".
This is not a World Heritage Site, so it is not included in the bus tour course, but it is a popular church and you need to apply at the World Heritage Center to visit it. The nearest station is Nishidaira Station, on the opposite shore of Hirado Island, so I stopped by on my way back from Hirado Island.
Heavy rain started falling on the way and I thought about giving up on stopping there, but the locals told me, "You should definitely go!" so I decided to go. The nearest station, Nishitabira Station, is about a 30-minute walk away, so it's quite difficult to get around by public transportation. But it was worth it! I was waiting for it.
This Romanesque-style Japanese cathedral is made of tiles and bricks. It is the last brick cathedral designed by Yosuke Tetsukawa, who designed many cathedrals in Nagasaki, and is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
Tetsukawa learned about church architecture from the missionaries who visited Japan to spread Christianity, and as he built a number of churches, he built a cathedral that incorporated those techniques, decoration, and Catholic ideas.
It is a very beautiful church with colorful light shining through the stained glass. Another unusual feature is that the church cemetery is right next to it. It is rare to see a church and a cemetery next to each other.
Please note that the church itself closes at around 5pm.
There is a bicycle rental service available at Tabira Hiradoguchi Station, so you can make a reservation, so cycling from the station is also an option (although it is a bit far). If you are short on time, we recommend taking a taxi or renting a car.
The World Heritage Bus took me back to the boarding point. I was planning to change to a local bus from there and go back to Sasebo, but before that I went to "Tahira Cathedral" which I wanted to stop by.
Tabira Cathedral was the last red brick church designed and built by Yosuke Tetsukawa. Its solemnity, dignity, and meticulous structure make it one of Tetsukawa's greatest masterpieces.
From afar, it looks like it has a soft atmosphere, but when you look at it up close, you'll be surprised at the difference in impression. The rugged bricks, the ingenious combination of different colored bricks in the borders, the triple arched windows, and other design details will keep you entertained.
The atmosphere seen from the back is also completely different, with an impressive octagonal dome and shiny black tiled roof. It is no exaggeration to say that Tetsukawa, who has been involved in various churches, brought together all of his architectural skills to complete this magnificent church.
It is unusual to have a cemetery right next to a church, and it blends in well with the surrounding nature, giving the area a solemn atmosphere.
The nearest stations to Tabira Cathedral are Nishi-Taira Station on the Matsuura Railway or Ogita Bus Stop. It's a little difficult to get to, but you won't regret visiting this famous building, which represents Nagasaki.
The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.
