Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.
Tour the Catholic Miuracho Church, the symbol of Sasebo, and the retro shopping street that is the longest in Japan.
It takes just over an hour by bus from Nagasaki Airport to Sasebo Station. The bus route runs along Omura Bay, through the town, and stops at Huis Ten Bosch along the way.
On the opposite side of the port from Sasebo Station is the Catholic Miuracho Church.
This church was built in a different location during the Meiji period, but later, as the number of believers increased and the church became too small, it was expanded and rebuilt in its current location. It is in a great location, in the center of town, just a three-minute walk from the station, and on high ground. It was blessed by Hayasaka Hisanosuke, Japan's first bishop, and the religious order was the Sisters of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, the first Japanese women to be founded in Japan. It has been over 40 years since freedom of religion was recognized by the constitution, and I think this church marks the beginning of modern Catholicism in Japan.
It survived the bombing raids of World War II and you can still see the tower towering straight into the sky.
After visiting the church, we took a walk through the "Saruku 4○3 Arcade," a series of shopping streets. "Saruku" means "to stroll around" in Sasebo dialect, and "4○3" stands for the initials of four towns, Tamaya department store (○), and three towns. The total length of the shopping streets is an astounding 1 kilometer. It is a lively arcade bustling with locals.
In addition to the 4×3 Arcade, there are many other shopping streets in the area. Among them, Tono Market is lined with specialty shops selling seafood and everyday items. It feels like you've traveled back in time to the Showa era. You can even meet the mascot cats, making it the perfect place for a leisurely stroll.
This trip starts from Nagasaki Airport to Sasebo. We will travel by local bus and rental bicycle!
The bus ride from Nagasaki Airport to Sasebo Station takes about an hour and a half. It is a very busy route as it passes through Huis Ten Bosch on the way.
Nagasaki Airport appears to be floating in Omura Bay. Cross the Minoshima Bridge.
Huis Ten Bosch comes into view. Most passengers get off here. It takes about 30 minutes to get to the bus terminal in front of Sasebo Station.
After arriving at Sasebo Station, the first place we visited was the Catholic Miuramachi Church, located on a small hill just a few minutes from the station. This church with a Gothic spire built in the early Showa period is a beloved symbol of the town by the citizens of Sasebo.
The cream-colored walls are outlined with gray lines, and the roof is made of oxidized silver tiles. A kind sister welcomed us and gave us a tour. The inside of the church was inlaid with dazzling stained glass.
A few minutes further from the church was an arcade entrance, also reminiscent of a church.
The shopping street stretches for a long distance and crosses over itself to form one large arcade. The shopping streets of Shikamachi and Sankamachi are connected in a straight line, spanning a distance of 1 kilometer, making it the longest in Japan.
Next, we took a stroll through Tono Market. As you'd expect from a port town, there are many seafood shops, but it's also the local kitchen, with a number of other specialty shops.
This market has been in operation since the Taisho era, and many shops remain that have continued to watch over the changes in the city of Sasebo.
The atmosphere of the good old days. It's a scene from a trip that makes you feel like you've traveled back in time.
There was also a cat guarding the shop. It was a gentle and humane corner.
A historical walk around Sasebo's naval port area is in full swing, celebrating the 130th anniversary of the opening of Sasebo Port and the Naval Base.
Sasebo is a well-known military port where the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force, Japan Coast Guard, and the U.S. Navy are based. As a "naval base" where the Japanese Navy's institutions were once located, it has been designated as a Japanese Heritage Site along with Yokosuka, Kure, and Maizuru. This year marks the 130th anniversary of the opening of Sasebo Naval Base, and there will be a plethora of events and tours of related facilities.
There are shopping malls around Sasebo Port, and many people spend their time here as they please. Especially at dusk, the area is packed with people relaxing and gazing at the ocean, or walking their dogs.
The Sasebo Naval Base Triumphant Return Memorial Hall, a component part of the Japan Heritage Site, was built in 1923 to commemorate military service in World War I and other wars. The total construction cost was 86,000 yen in donations, which is equivalent to 1.1 billion yen (!) in today's value, showing that it was a time when military personnel were cherished.
The two-story building is made of brick and reinforced concrete, and features arched windows and curved lines on the exterior, and a custom-made crest and geometric patterns on the interior. It was originally used for various naval events, including joint funerals. The metal fittings used to hang the curtains for these occasions are decorated with cherry blossom patterns, with the petals facing inside out. After the war, it was requisitioned by the US military and used as a dance hall and movie theater. The screening room from that time still remains.
The anchor mark placed above the main entrance is one of the few remaining elements that recalls Sasebo's time as a naval base. Even now, registered as a national tangible cultural property, it is used as the "Sasebo Civic Cultural Hall" and is a popular tourist spot, receiving as many as 1,800 visitors a year.
The Sasebo Naval Base Triumphal Memorial Hall (Citizens' Cultural Hall) is one of the assets that make up the Japan Heritage "Naval Base (Japanese Navy's government offices)." It is a brick and reinforced concrete building built with donations during the Taisho era.
Inside there is a stage, a hall, and a second floor balcony. It was originally used for events by the Japanese Navy, and then when it was taken over by the US military it was used as a dance hall. Nowadays it is used for musical performances, plays, dance recitals, and more.
The stage is recessed in the middle and the original emblem can be seen above it.
Materials related to Japan Heritage are on display on the second floor balcony, and the museum welcomes not only local residents but also many visitors.
A cherry blossom hook is attached to a pillar. It is used for things like setting up smoke screens, and the front side has a pattern of flower petals carved into it. However, when it is attached to the pillar, it is the back side that is visible. The reason for this is not clear, but it is definitely worth a look.
The anchor and cherry blossom mark that remains above the front entrance gives a sense of the history of Sasebo and the navy.
When you visit, be sure to take note of the decorations found throughout the building.
On this day, we were given special permission to go up into the attic, where we were able to clearly see the original brickwork that is no longer exposed on the surface.
This year marks the 130th anniversary of the opening of the Sasebo Naval Base, and commemorative events and guided tours of related facilities are attracting attention. The opening of Sasebo Port 130 years ago marked the start of Sasebo's development. A walk around Sasebo town where you can learn about history in a fun way and feel grateful for peace. There's more to come.
Take a stroll around Sasebo Port as the sun sets.
Sasebo International Terminal opened in 2015. It is very impressive when illuminated by the setting sun.
Sasebo Port is easily accessible from Sasebo Station, and is a bustling place with a shopping mall, etc. People who take a leisurely stroll or have tea while admiring the scenery are popular as a place of relaxation not only for tourists but also for local residents.
The Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force's "Multi-Purpose Support Ship Amakusa." When the sun goes down, the lights come on and the trumpet sounds.
Sasebo Fifth Avenue is a commercial complex facing the harbor. It is bustling with people shopping and has a lively atmosphere. It was named after the "fifth" shopping street, which follows the Mikkamachi Shopping Street and the Shikamachi Shopping Street. There are many restaurants and cafes here.
Sasebo has undergone great development in the 130 years since it opened its port. It was a strange sight to see the majestic warships moored alongside the everyday lives of local citizens. The port serves as a commercial port for ferries and passenger ships, as well as a military port for the Self-Defense Forces and the US Navy. You can see a view that can only be seen here, so be sure to stop by.
Turkish rice from the cute retro restaurant "Shirobara" found in the Mikkamachi Arcade
While walking around Sasebo, I found a cute restaurant and immediately went in. It is located in the Mikkamachi Arcade, and even the exterior is very retro. Even the food samples and logo font have a Showa-era feel.
I ordered "Turkish Rice," a local Nagasaki delicacy. The origin of the name is a mystery. This hearty Western-style one-plate dish was so exciting from the moment it was brought to me! It reminded me of a kid's lunch.
This dish is packed with carefully selected ingredients, including crispy pork cutlets, Neapolitan pasta topped with powdered cheese, and spicy curry pilaf. The original demi-glace sauce is rich and has a moderate acidity that lingers in your mouth.
Once you've filled your stomach, try another Nagasaki specialty: a milkshake.
Milkshakes are generally drinks made with eggs, milk, and sugar. However, here in Nagasaki, milkshakes are made in the shaved ice style, and feel more like a dessert than a drink after a meal. They were originally invented to be enjoyed during the hot season, but now they can be enjoyed all year round as a Nagasaki specialty, as a refreshing, cold dessert after a meal.
The food is prepared with great care, and it's no wonder they've been in business in the area for so many years. They also served the Sasebo specialty "Lemon Steak," so if I had more room in my stomach, I would have liked to try more!
It was a delicious and memorable experience for me while traveling.
Cafe & Restaurant Shirobara stands out with its retro exterior.
The signs, logo fonts, etc. give off a Showa-era vibe.
Here we have the Nagasaki specialty "Turkish Rice"! It's a hearty one-plate menu.
The crispy, freshly fried pork cutlet is soft and juicy, and the original demi-glace sauce gives it a mellow flavor.
Neapolitan, a representative Western dish, has a strong cheese aroma and rich flavor.
The fluffy curry pilaf contains egg.
The three delicacies were served on one plate at a time, and they were all piping hot and freshly made, which was nice. It was just like a "kids' lunch" for adults!
After the meal, we had a Nagasaki specialty, the "milkshake." The red cherries give it a nostalgic feel.
The milkshake has a crunchy texture because it contains shaved ice, so it's more like a cold dessert than a drink. This restaurant also serves local delicacies such as milkshakes and Sasebo's specialty "lemon steak." Of course, you can also eat regular Western food and parfaits.
After a hearty meal, we walked back to the hotel, passing under the illuminated Albuquerque Bridge. This bridge was built when Sasebo and Albuquerque, New Mexico, became sister cities. It connects the street in front of Tamaya, a department store in the city center, to Sasebo Park. It was built with the hope that the friendly relationship between Japan and the United States will continue into the future, just like this bridge.
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The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.
