A World Heritage site steeped in mythology. A local writer guides you through Fukuoka's "Island of the Gods"

The legend of the Three Goddesses, passed down for over 1,300 years

Okinoshima is an isolated island with a circumference of about 4km, located about 60km off the coast of the Genkai Sea in the northwestern part of Kyushu. Why did this island come to be known as the home of a god?

Okinoshima is located halfway between Kyushu and the Korean Peninsula, and there are records that during the Sui and Tang dynasties, people relied on the island's location when traveling to mainland China. Meanwhile, as exchanges between Japan and neighboring countries became more active, national rituals to pray for safe voyages began to be held on Okinoshima from around the second half of the 4th century. By the second half of the 7th century, the culture of rituals had spread to nearby Oshima and the mainland of Kyushu.

According to the oldest historical book in Japan, the Nihon Shoki, "Three goddesses descended from the gods to the land of Munakata, at the command of Amaterasu Omikami, who commanded them to 'assist the successive emperors in their affairs and receive respectful rites.'" Thus, the three shrines where the three sister goddesses would be enshrined were established: Okitsu-gu on Okinoshima, where the eldest is enshrined; Nakatsu-gu on Oshima, where the second is enshrined; and Hetsu-gu in Munakata City on the Kyushu mainland, where the third is enshrined. Collectively, the three shrines came to be known as Munakata Taisha. The three goddesses are affectionately known as the Munakata Three Goddesses, and they continue to watch over the land of Munakata to this day.

Okinoshima, a mysterious island protected by numerous taboos

Okinoshima itself is considered the sacred object of Munakata Taisha Shrine and Okitsumiya Shrine, and has come to be known as the "island of the gods." Even today, the ancient tradition of banning women from entering the island is observed, and even men are not permitted to land on the island except for the local grand festival held every May. Furthermore, from 2018, this grand festival will also be canceled, and landing on the island will be completely prohibited for the general public, except for researchers.

Furthermore, even those who are allowed to land on the island must abide by a number of taboos, such as not being able to take home even a single tree, plant, or stone, and not speaking of anything that happens on the island. Because Okinoshima is privately owned by Munakata Taisha Shrine and has no public transportation, its existence has long been a "secret island" that is not widely known to the world.

Although it is not possible to land on Okinoshima, there are spots where you can experience its charm. One of these is the "Remote Worship Site" established on Oshima Island. This is a place built for worshiping Okinoshima, and is a perfect location with the majestic ocean stretching out as far as the eye can see. Okinoshima is 50km away, but from here you can see the island from a closer distance than anywhere else on land.

Oshima is about 25 minutes away by ferry from the Kanminato Port Ferry Terminal on the Kyushu mainland. There is an observation point marked by a windmill in the north of the island, where you can spend some relaxing time surrounded by nature. When you arrive at Oshima, be sure to also visit Nakatsu Shrine, which enshrines the second daughter of the Three Goddesses. This shrine is known for its blessings in finding love, and is especially popular among women.

Additionally, within the grounds of Hetsumiya Shrine on the Kyushu mainland, there is also a power spot called "Takamiya Shrine." This is an ancient ritual site where legend remains that it is "the place where the three Munakata Goddesses descended." Surrounded by tall trees, when you actually stand here, you will feel as if you are enveloped in a gentle, yet indescribable, powerful energy. It is a pure, somehow warm place that truly gives you power. It is rare nationwide to find an ancient ritual site that can be seen up close like this, so it is definitely something you should stop by when you visit.

All of the approximately 80,000 excavated items are now national treasures.

Over a period of around 500 years, from the latter half of the 4th century to the end of the 9th century, numerous offerings were made to Okinoshima for rituals. Glass cups from Persia that are said to have been brought there via the Silk Road, and gold rings thought to have been made on the Korean Peninsula. Other valuable items that have been excavated from Okinoshima include magatama and mirrors, which would never have been able to be gathered by a single local clan leader.

A closer look at these items brings the history of Okinoshima into focus. For example, the characteristics of the pottery indicate that fishermen from a wide area, from northern Kyushu to the Seto Inland Sea and Yamaguchi, stopped off on the island. Okinoshima was not only a stopover point on the way to the continent, but also a perfect anchorage in the area's rich fishing grounds.

It is said that approximately 80,000 historically valuable items have been excavated from Okinoshima, all of which are currently designated as national treasures. Moreover, these have only been excavated from about 30% of the ruins that have been surveyed, with the remaining 70% still remaining untouched. For this reason, Okinoshima has been likened to the Shosoin Repository in Nara, which houses many historical art and craft items, and is also known as the "Shosoin Repository of the Sea."

The approximately 80,000 national treasures brought back from Okinoshima are stored in the Sacred Treasure Museum on the grounds of Hetsumiya Shrine. Turning off the approach to the shrine and walking through a narrow path lined with trees, you will come across the impressive building of the Sacred Treasure Museum. There is a wide variety of excavated items on display, including weapons, accessories, and horse equipment. Not all 80,000 items are on display at once, but the exhibits are replaced regularly, so if you return at a later time, you may find something new.

A spot to learn more about the mysterious "World Heritage Site"

If you want to know more about the history of Okinoshima, we recommend the Sea Road Munakata Museum, which is within walking distance from Hetsumiya. The highlight of this museum is the 3D theater, where you can experience a realistic video about Okinoshima. In the permanent exhibition room, panels and models are used to introduce the footsteps of the ancient people who traveled to the mainland, their beliefs, and the lifestyle of the time. You can also try your hand at making magatama and making fire, so if you're interested, please inquire.

In this World Heritage designation, the Shinbaru-Nuyama Burial Mounds were also designated as "Munakata-Okinoshima Island, Home of the Gods, and Associated Heritage Sites," along with the Sannomiya and Oshima Worship Sites of Munakata Taisha Shrine. This group of burial mounds is scattered in Shinbaru and Nuyama in the northern part of Fukutsu City, next to Munakata City, and consists of 41 tombs in total, including five keyhole-shaped burial mounds, 35 circular burial mounds, and one square burial mound. It is a heritage related to the Munakata clan, a powerful clan in the region who devoutly worshipped the Three Goddesses and carried out ancient rituals on Okinoshima, eventually enshrining them in the Sannomiya. Looking out toward the sea from the observation deck, you can see the land rising up in small bulges. The atmosphere is so pastoral that you will forget about time for a while.

There are many stories and history that remain to be told about Okinoshima and its related ruins. The more you learn about this World Heritage Site, the deeper its appeal becomes. Why not travel around the Munakata region and experience it for yourself?

Top image: ©bbargueiras/Shutterstock.com

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