Misaki's charm is not just tuna. A two-day trip to Misaki, Kanagawa, where a retro townscape is mixed with modernity

Ai Nishimura

Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.

6:00 Enjoy Misaki from the morning! The Misaki Morning Market is held every Sunday

The famous morning market is held in Misaki on weekends. Many people drive from all over the country to the market, and it is so lively that it is hard to believe it is early in the morning.

As expected, the main product here is "tuna." The spirited voice stirs up your desire to buy. Looking inside the store, in addition to tuna fillets and slices, there are heaps of seafood and dried fish from Misaki Fishing Port for sale. Fresh seasonal Miura vegetables are also vibrant in color. Buying in bulk is a good deal.
There were also items that could be eaten immediately, such as bread and pudding, so I found myself being tempted from the morning.

Misaki Morning Market

9:00 Hidden spot, lighthouse and sandy beach "Moroiso Kitsunehama"

We visited Moroiso to enjoy the fresh morning air and the sea.
This is a rare sandy beach in Misaki, and right next to Aburatsubo, you can see the view of many yachts gracefully floating on the sea.

There are not many buses from Misaki Port to Moroiso, so you will need to check in advance. However, the ride is only about 10 minutes, so it is not far, and if you get off at the bus stop right next to the sea, Kitsunehama is right there. After passing through a residential area, you will arrive at the bus's final destination, Moroiso. The quiet sandy beach and unique geology create a landscape full of geological sensations.

It's a small beach, but there is a large rocky area that connects to the sea, and you can feel the majesty of the ocean. Compared to the bustling Misaki Port, there are only a few people fishing here, so you can feel like you have the sea all to yourself. The waves are calm, clear, and quiet. It seems like it would be nice to just sit and daydream while listening to the sound of the waves.

We could also see the pure white Moroisosaki Lighthouse with its clean, sharp edges. Beyond this, across the sea, is Mount Fuji. Unfortunately, it was hazy that day, and we could barely see it with our eyes. In the coming winter season, this will no doubt be a wonderful spot to enjoy the view of Mount Fuji, delighting the eyes of visitors.

Moroiso Fox Beach

11:30 International udon?! "Udon Harukaze" with the aroma of coriander

Harukaze is a creative udon restaurant run by a couple who moved to Misaki. We had lunch at this udon restaurant that just celebrated its 5th anniversary.
The udon noodles made every morning are generally eaten on the same day. They are made with great care, taking into account the weather and humidity of the day.

I ordered the "Coriander Tuna Udon." This was a dish created to serve tuna in Misaki, the city of tuna. The soft tuna was made by confiting lean tuna fillets, and was seasoned with an Asian flavor of fish sauce. There was a lot of coriander on top, but it didn't overwhelm the udon and was refreshing to eat.

After hearing that he had no training in how to make udon, but was self-taught, I tried the noodles and found that they were certainly original and not associated with the idea of udon from any particular region. They were chewy and firm, yet somehow flexible. The careful presentation of the noodles also conveyed the care taken to make them.

It has so many fans that some customers drive all the way here from far away just to eat there. Seasonal menu items include "Salted Pork Udon" and "Nabeyaki Udon" in winter, as well as other original udon dishes. In the evening, it also serves a restaurant where you can drink carefully selected sake and shochu.

Udon Harukaze

13:00 Visit Kainan Shrine, a historic shrine that watches over the port town of Misaki

Kainan Shrine is the head shrine of the Miura area. It is a shrine dedicated to Fujiwara no Sueyoshi, who pacified this area.
There are many things to see in the precincts, such as the ginkgo tree planted by Minamoto no Yoritomo, the sacred tree that looks as if the dragon god has appeared, and the water god monument that recently became famous for a TV program draining the water from the pond. We were guided around by twin priests, a rare sight in Japan.

The shrine within the precincts, "Sagami Kainan Takaie Shrine," is the god of food. The enshrined deity, Iwakarokugan no Mikoto, is the god of cooking who appears in the Nihon Shoki. It is said that it is good to pray for food-related thanks and offerings, as well as for improving the skills of chefs. In addition, the shrine is deeply revered by people who are involved in the fishing industry, praying for a good catch, safety at sea, and holding ceremonies to coincide with events and the calendar, making it a shrine that is a stronghold for life in Misaki.

Among these is the traditional event, Chakkirako, a gorgeous Shinto ritual held in January, which has been designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan and an Intangible Cultural Heritage of UNESCO. There are various theories as to why it is an old festival that has been held since the Edo period, and is characterized by a girls' dance in which only girls from kindergarten to sixth grade of elementary school participate. Unfortunately, the Chakkirako in January next year has already been canceled to prevent the spread of COVID-19, but we hope that this long-standing festival will be passed down into the future.

Kainan Shrine

14:00 Enjoy a parfait filled with seasonal fruits at Miyagawa Angel Parlour

Miyagawa Angel Parlor just opened in August 2020. It opened this year as a successor to Miyagawa Bagel, a bagel specialty store in Misaki that sadly closed at the height of its popularity. The store rented the space that was originally a set meal restaurant called "Angel," so both names were kept in the store name.

Parfaits are the main item on the menu, but they also offer drinks so you can use it as a cafe as well.
The owner, who has roots in Yamanashi, personally visits the area to select the desserts, which are made using fruits that are in season at the time. The menu changes quickly, so if there's something you want to try, we recommend you go right away!

On this day, I had a parfait made with three kinds of grapes. The grape My Heart was decorated on the edge of the glass to create a lined up heart shape, and other ingredients included Berry A and chopped Shine Muscat. The parfait was designed to keep you interested until the very end with different textures such as purple sweet potato ice cream, cream and jelly. The opening of a shop where you can enjoy the full flavor of fruit in Misaki has surely further increased the charm of this port city.

This restaurant has been carefully preserved to preserve the old things and to avoid changing the restaurant that holds fond memories for the people of Misaki. We had a delicious time here, as we rounded off our visit to a town where old and new coexist.

Miyagawa Angel Parlor