Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.
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Izumo Taisha Shrine is located in Izumo, my hometown. While October is known nationwide as "Kannazuki" (Month without Gods), in the Izumo region it is called "Kamiarizuki" (Month with Gods). During the Kamimukae Ceremony held on the 10th day of the 10th month of the lunar calendar (November 27th in 2017), gods from all over Japan gather in Izumo and proceed along the Kamimukae-no-michi road to Izumo Taisha Shrine. In this article, I will introduce Izumo Taisha Shrine, a history museum where you can learn about the history of Izumo, and the Kamimukae-no-michi road where the gods are welcomed, as well as tourist spots, food, souvenirs, and more.
A trip to Izumo City starts with a visit to Izumo Taisha, the shrine of matchmaking
The first phase of the Heisei Great Shrine Move, which took place for the first time in 60 years and continued until last year (2016), has been completed with the completion of all repairs to the shrine buildings. This marks a return to the origins and revival. The second phase of the project has now begun, with construction work underway to improve the facilities within the grounds, but Izumo Taisha Shrine is still a popular spot that attracts many visitors.
The god of Izumo Taisha is Okuninushi, the god of matchmaking. Many people from all over Japan visit the shrine to find not only love and marriage, but also work, friends, health, and other connections. For me, it's a place I often visited as a child. It's a place full of memories, having come here many times with my family and relatives, and on school field trips. In this article, I'll introduce the highlights of the shrine with photo captions.
Visit Izumo Taisha Shrine. Visiting both the shrine and Miho Shrine will bring you many benefits. The way to visit Izumo Taisha Shrine is "2 bows, 4 claps, 1 bow."
Izumo Taisha Shrine has four torii gates, and this is the second torii gate, made of wood. This place is called Seidamari.
Shinmon-dori street seen from Seidari. You can see that it is an uphill road towards Seidari. In the background you can see the first torii gate. It is made of reinforced concrete.
The first torii gate over the second torii gate. This is a photo spot that shrine lovers will love!
The approach to the shrine grounds now becomes a steep slope, which means that the Seidari is at the highest point.
On the approach to the shrine is the "Harae no Yashiro" (Purification Shrine). This is the place where you can purify yourself before praying at the shrine.
The third torii gate is an iron torii gate. From here to the main shrine, the approach is lined with pine trees, but in order to protect the pine trees, and because the central path is reserved for the imperial family and for religious ceremonies, the paths on either side are usually used.
Pine trees line the approach to the shrine. Until around the Taisho era, both sides of these rows of pine trees were rice fields. Some of the pine trees are over 400 years old.
Izumo Taisha Shrine. Although the weather was unfortunate, clouds were rising from the mountain behind the shrine, just as the Izumo pillow word "Yakumo Tatsu" (Eight clouds rise) says.
The last torii gate is the fourth torii gate. This copper torii gate is the oldest of the four and was donated by the Mori family in the mid-Edo period. It is a national important cultural property.
The copper torii gate has an inscription that reads "Susanoo-no-Mikoto." If you decipher what is written here, you will understand that Izumo Taisha, which currently enshrines Okuninushi-no-Mikoto, was also an inscribed shrine for Susanoo-no-Mikoto when the copper torii gate was built.
This is the worship hall of Izumo Taisha. This is the place where you enter when receiving prayers. When the main hall was renovated for the "Heisei Great Shrine Move," the god was moved to the current worship hall, and this became the temporary main hall. Izumo Taisha is often talked about for its shimenawa ropes, and the shimenawa ropes in the worship hall were donated by the Suga Shimenawa Preservation Society, made in Unnan City, Shimane Prefecture.
Now, it started to rain heavily, so we retreated for a while. This is the Hachimon Gate of Izumo Taisha Shrine, and the large roof you can see in the back is the main hall.
The Hachimon Gate is a national important cultural property, and the main hall is a national treasure. The Izumo Taisha Shrine crest is a double tortoiseshell, sword and diamond pattern. It shines golden.
The roof was re-thatched for the first time in 60 years in conjunction with the Grand Shrine Relocation. The roof was re-thatched using a technique called "cypress bark roofing," in which layers of cypress bark are fastened together with bamboo nails.
These are the "Jukyusha" on either side of the main hall. They are the lodgings where the gods from all over Japan stay when they come to Izumo. Since this is on the east side, it is called the East Jukyusha and is where the gods who come from the eastern countries across from Izumo stay.
Behind Izumo Taisha Shrine is the Soganoyashiro Shrine, where Susanoo is enshrined.
Shokokan. A two-story wooden building with a stately feel, it is designated as a registered tangible cultural property. Inside, models and documents of the Izumo Taisha Shrine grounds are stored.
The Kagura Hall is where the largest shimenawa rope in Japan is hung. It is a place where prayers and weddings are mainly held. It is said that the rope will be replaced next year. When replacing it, a crane will be used to lift the rope, which is said to weigh between 4 and 5 tons.
There are many things for sale in the shrine grounds, but I bought this "Izumo Taisha History Summary." It's a compact summary of the history and legends of Izumo Taisha.
Recently, rabbits have been multiplying (lol) and can be seen all over the temple grounds. But if you're going to see one, this is the best. A pair of rabbits in front of the Senke Kokuzokan.
Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo History: Discover the history of the ancient Izumo region and the mysteries of Izumo Taisha Shrine
It's easy to say that Izumo has a long history, but the Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo History (commonly known as Rekihaku), located near Izumo Taisha Shrine, will help you understand why we can say so. As I will also introduce in the photo captions, the highlight of Rekihaku is the 358 bronze swords. These bronze swords were discovered in 1984, excavated from the Kojindani ruins in Hikawa-cho, Izumo City. I was an elementary school student at the time, and I remember hearing about them on the news every day, and adults getting all excited. I know I may have given away my age, but I love this exhibit so much that it gives me goosebumps.
Among the exhibits at the Rekihaku Museum, I think many people will be interested in the huge model of the former Izumo Taisha Shrine, which has the appearance of a huge temple made of thick pillars. However, I love the model of Izumo Taisha Shrine from the Keicho period, shortly after the Edo period began. "I can't believe Izumo Taisha Shrine had a three-story pagoda!" "I can't believe Izumo Taisha Shrine was painted vermilion!" It's fun to see the religious views of people at that time, when shrines and temples were one in faith, overlap in my mind with the Izumo Taisha Shrine of today.
We have arrived at the Shimane Prefectural Museum of Ancient Izumo History!
First, as you enter the temple, you will come across the "Uzu Pillars." In 2000, the pillars of a gigantic temple that was thought to be a legend were actually discovered underground. These pillars were made of three giant logs bound together, suggesting that a 48-meter-tall temple may have been built.
In the exhibition room, you can see a model of the high-rise temple. It's amazing to see that such a large building actually existed.
These models are the shrine buildings of Izumo Taisha, as predicted by researchers in various fields. Each model is different in height and shape, so it's impossible to know which model is closest to the shrine building that actually stood there, but it does give rise to dreams!
This is my favorite model of Izumo Taisha Shrine from the Keicho period. The shape of the main hall is the same as the current "Taisha-zukuri" style, but the fact that it is painted vermilion overall seems to reflect the temple style.
Three-story pagoda. When Izumo Taisha was built in the Edo period (Kanbun 7), Buddhist pagodas and other structures were removed and the shrine was remodeled to fit the Shinto style. At that time, this three-story pagoda was donated as a token of appreciation to Namakusa Shrine in Yabu City, Hyogo Prefecture, for the sacred tree that was donated for use in the construction of the shrine. Even today, you can see the three-story pagoda within the grounds of Namakusa Shrine.
There are two shrines to the right of the main hall and one to the left, just like today! It's a fun model to try to find things that are the same as today.
Kojiki. It is the oldest historical book in Japan. There are three volumes in the Kojiki. Most of the first volume is mythology, and it contains various stories that happened in Izumo.
Izumo Fudoki. The "Fudoki" was created in each region, following orders to record local traditions and legends, local products and lifestyles, the origins of place names, and geography. Although they were created in each region, very few remain to this day, and only Izumo, Harima, Hizen, Hitachi, and Bungo remain today. Among them, the Izumo Fudoki in particular remains in a nearly complete state.
It is believed that the Izumo no Kuni Fudoki was a scroll. The opening part of the scroll is the story of the "Kunibiki myth," which is known to everyone in Izumo.
Bronze swords excavated from the Kojindani ruins. The display covering an entire wall is truly magnificent!
What on earth did ancient people use all these bronze swords for? It remains a mystery. All 358 of these swords are national treasures.
This is a bronze bell excavated from the Kamoiwakura ruins (Unnan City), located 3.4 km away from the Kojindani ruins. It seems that this was meant to be rung. All of these bronze bells are also national treasures.
A bronze bell with a picture of a turtle.
A bronze bell depicting a deer.
Don't call it a backstreet! This is Omotesando "Kamimukae-no-michi" where you can enjoy gourmet food, crafts, and art
Shinmon Street stretches straight out from Izumo Taisha Shrine. It has become a famous street lined with souvenir shops and restaurants. Until a few years ago, it was a lonely street where no one walked, but now it has regained its vitality, and the sidewalk has been widened and paved with cobblestones, making it easier to walk. However, in this report on Izumo Taisha Shrine, I would like to focus on the theme that there is more to the surrounding area than just Jofu!
Shinmon-dori is the street in front, so it feels like the main street, but in fact the original approach to Izumo Taisha Shrine is the "Kamimukae no Michi" that leads to the sea. This road is also the road the gods pass through, so it is a special road. On the 10th day of the 10th month of the lunar calendar, gods from all over Japan come to Inasa Beach, located west of Izumo Taisha Shrine, and the Kamimukae ritual begins.
After welcoming the gods on the beach, we take them to Izumo Taisha Shrine, along the Kamimukae-no-michi road. Taisha-cho is an area that has existed alongside Izumo Taisha Shrine, and is a quiet, peaceful town lined with black-tiled houses, mixed with inns and restaurants.
This time, we will introduce the traditional craft "Takahashi's Celebration Kite" that can be purchased along this Kamimukae-no-michi road, "Tawara Manju" that every local has tried, "King's Taisha Yakisoba" that is delicious with a drizzle of sauce, and the "Tezen Memorial Museum" of the Tezen family, a merchant family that served as the accountant for Izumo Taisha Shrine and also ran a sake brewery.
This trip took me around Matsue Castle, Mihonoseki, and Izumo Taisha Shrine. For those who have never been there before, this may have been a bit of a geeky introduction, but it's nice to have a "first trip that feels like the second time" every once in a while. Please come visit my hometown, Shimane Prefecture.
We arrived at "Iwai Tako Takahashi" on Kamimukae-no-michi, a workshop that makes decorated kites.
The kite has a pair of cranes (red) and turtles (black). It's very graphic and cool. I think it will be well received by foreigners too!
When there was a celebration at Izumo Taisha, the parishioners would fly these kites to celebrate, but they went out of fashion once and were revived and are still made today. They have evolved into asymmetrical, more stylish kites, and are often purchased as gifts for weddings and housewarmings.
The Jōki, which has a history of being a cart that was used to pull a road instead of a float, is also very cute.
Tawara Manjuu Otorii store. It is located just past Takahashi Celebration Kites.
These steamed buns are made from castella dough and filled with smooth white bean paste. You can eat as many as you like!
They also have tea available inside, so you can eat in! You can buy one at a time, so you can eat it on the spot.
In the foreground is Ebisu and Okuninushi. Okuninushi is the deity Okuninushi of Izumo Taisha. I have been familiar with the image of him on top of a rice sack since I was a child, and for me, the rice sack manju and Izumo Taisha are easily connected. I have loved it since I was a child.
It is a shop with a tiled roof.
This thing you can see while walking along the Kamimukae-no-michi is a local custom called "Shiogumi." On the first day of each month, people walk along the Kamimukae-no-michi to Inasa Beach. After drawing seawater there, they visit the surrounding shrines in order, wrapping the seawater around bamboo and shaking it to purify themselves. If you see a bamboo tube for drawing seawater hanging on a private house, it has a certain meaning.
We have arrived at King, a gourmet spot on Kamimukae-no-michi!
Here you can find "Taisha Yakisoba" which has been granted a registered trademark! The yakisoba here does not come with sauce on it. In fact, this yakisoba is served with the sauce added after it has been made. You can add sauce to your liking. However, it also comes with plenty of vegetables, and the aroma of lard will whet your appetite.
Choose from two types of sauce, basic and spicy, depending on your taste. You can even blend them on the plate.
It was because of that "add-on"! I tried a new way to eat it, "grated daikon and ponzu sauce" on the staff menu. It was refreshing with grated daikon and rich ponzu sauce. The wheat flavor of the noodles and the aroma of lard were further enhanced! Next time, I'll add ponzu sauce to the daikon.
The last place we visited on this trip was the Tezen Memorial Museum. This is an area lined with storehouses with a beautiful contrast of charcoal and white. The Tezen family was originally a sake shop here, and later served as the accountant for Izumo Taisha Shrine.
The Tezeniya family would make sake from rice they received from the shrine and offer it as sacred sake.
The family also served as one of the lodging facilities for Matsue Domain officials and the domain lord when they visited Izumo Taisha Shrine. The 500 or so items in its collection are displayed in special exhibitions and changed seasonally.
Although the family was never a collector of art, looking at the items they bought to entertain guests and the tableware they actually used, one can make a new discovery: even in Izumo, they used such elegant tableware and tasteful crafts!
The storehouse is used as an exhibition room, and the works can be viewed in silence, with even the sound of footsteps echoing.
The gorgeous design of this Yakumo-nuri (Meiji period) tray makes it seem rather modern, but it also has a slightly oriental feel to it. It was a wonderful piece.
Shrimp rice bowls. Cute designs that would be good for celebrations. When I think that each one was actually used, my imagination runs wild and I somehow feel a sense of familiarity.
The exhibition is held in a former sake brewery, so the ceilings are high and you can relax and enjoy the exhibits.
The Tezeni Memorial Museum hosts a variety of projects and events, including participatory projects that highlight the culture of Izumo itself, and special exhibitions featuring crafts from the Izumo region.
You can also tour the well-maintained garden, so be sure to check it out!
The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.
