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Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.
Imagine the history of the Edo period in the temple town of Busshozan, where unique shops line the streets.
It takes just under 20 minutes on the Kotoden train from the center of Takamatsu.
The name Busshozan was taken from the mountain name of Honen-ji Temple, which was the family temple of the Matsudaira clan, the lords of Takamatsu.
The temple town of Busshozan flourished along Honmachi Street, which continues to Honenji Temple. Successive lords of Takamatsu passed through here on their way to Honenji Temple, and the area is also known as the "Onari Highway."
In the past, visiting Honenji Temple was a form of entertainment for the people, and the town was always bustling with people. Now, the town is quiet and calm, lined with old houses.
As you walk around the city, you'll find that it has many unique and interesting spots.
One of these is the "Taishu Theatre Busshozan," located between Busshozan Station and Onari Kaido. It is a theater dedicated to performing popular theater, which is very rare these days. In this day and age, where most popular theater performances are held in hotels and inns, Busshozan is one of the few theaters in the country. Performances are held every weekday, so it's a great way to experience the world of theater.
Along Onari Kaido, there are many places with a mix of atmospheres from various eras, such as Busshozan Tenmaya Sandwich, a stylish sandwich shop renovated from a kimono shop, Kanzakiya, a vinegar brewery with 230 years of history, and Cafe Asile, a French restaurant renovated from a retro-modern old house from the early Showa period.
While reading the information signs posted here and there, you can learn about the town's history and be immersed in nostalgia... It's a town where you can spend your time at a leisurely pace.
To get to Busshozan Station, take the Kotoden train. It takes just under 20 minutes from Takamatsu Chikko Station.
It's great to ride a local train when you're traveling. Busshozan Station is a station that even train enthusiasts can enjoy.
At Busshozan Station, old and new trains are parked, so I couldn't help but take some photos of them. There is a Kotoden factory here, and it would be fun to take a tour of the factory when a hands-on workshop is being held. On this day, I saw many train fans being guided around the factory.
A two-minute walk from Busshozan Station. On the way to the temple town is the "Taishu Theatre Busshozan". This is a dedicated theatre for performing popular theatre. It is one of around 40 dedicated theatres in the country.
Popular theater is performed almost every day without a break, including on weekdays, in two parts, a day and an evening.
Aoido is located at the entrance to the temple town. Inside the store, old wooden molds and other items are lined up, telling the story of the store's history as a Japanese confectionery shop. Matsudaira Yorishige, the lord of Takamatsu, was the older brother of Tokugawa Mitsukuni, also known as the Mito domain's "Komon-sama," so the store has a deep connection to the hollyhock crest. Dorayaki are on sale on Thursdays.
The big sign is "Tenmaya Kimono Store". Half of the store has been remodeled into a sandwich shop called "Busshozan Tenmaya Sandwich". The Mushikomado window on the second floor is beautiful.
From the outside, you can see the gorgeous design typical of a merchant's house, with graceful curves and corbels decorated with trowel paintings.
"Kanzakiya" is a vinegar brewery. It is a long-established brewery and a building built at the end of the Edo period that is said to be the oldest in Busshozan.
Onari Kaido is a mix of old townhouses and modern homes. From a traveler's perspective, it is a place with a sense of history, but for the people who live there, it is a place where they go about their daily lives. It is a temple town with two faces.
"Busshozan Honenji Temple". It is a 20-minute walk from Busshozan Station. This temple was founded by the lord of Takamatsu in the early Edo period. The five-story pagoda in the photo was built in the traditional wooden style, all made of cypress, to commemorate the 800th anniversary of the death of Saint Honen in 2011.
Busshozan Onsen is the town's hub that continues to promote the charms of Busshozan.
When you ask locals about tourist spots in Busshozan, the first name that comes up is the day-trip hot spring, Busshozan Onsen.
Opened in 2005, the news of the opening of a stylish hot spring made this spot an instant hit.
80% of the customers at Busshozan Onsen are locals, and many people come to soak in the hot springs almost every day. In fact, as soon as the store opened, customers who appeared to be locals arrived, and many of them were seen using multi-ticket passes to enter the facility.
The facility has a simple, warm design that has been stripped of all unnecessary elements. From what I could tell, it was a space that prioritized the comfort of its users. The long and narrow lobby and rest area has large windows overlooking the greenery and gravel garden, and is an open space filled with sunlight. The sales corner is lined with Kagawa's traditional crafts, including Marugame fans and souvenirs. There are also many second-hand books on offer, so it would be a good idea to spend your time looking for souvenirs or reading.
Busshozan Onsen is a place that is right in the middle between "living" and "traveling."
First of all, please come and experience this pleasant space and feel the charm of Busshozan.
"Busshozan Onsen." A spacious parking lot and a modern exterior that makes it hard to believe it's a hot spring. This is a day-trip hot spring facility that won the Good Design Award in 2007.
The lobby contains a sales area and a rest area. One side is made up of windows, letting in plenty of light.
In addition to towels and hand towels necessary for the hot springs, they also stock souvenirs from Kagawa.
They also sell second-hand books. You might be able to find a book you want to read.
If you want to feel some fresh air after your bath, head to the deck terrace.
The restaurant can also be accessed from the deck terrace. Everything you need is provided within the facility, answering the questions visitors have about what they want to do at the hot springs.
Don't miss the signs with cute fonts.
Cafe Asile serves French cuisine using local ingredients in a traditional Japanese house
We stopped in for lunch at Cafe Asile, a French restaurant renovated from a 90-year-old traditional Japanese house along Onari Kaido.
From the road side, the shop appears to be an early Showa era house with a white balcony, but once you go around to the back you'll be greeted by a stylish exposed concrete entrance and indigo-dyed curtain curtains, creating a pleasant contrast.
The "Asylum Lunch" offers a choice of several main dishes. It is a course meal that includes appetizer, soup, main course, and dessert. Many of the ingredients used are local, and all the vegetables are from nearby fields. They also served hamburgers made with Kagawa's brand meats, "Olive Beef" and "Olive Pork."
On this day, I ordered the herb-flavored meat doria. It was quite filling, so even men would be satisfied.
The restaurant has been completely renovated, and this year a young chef is serving authentic French cuisine. In addition, a patisserie and cafe of the same chain is scheduled to open next door. It will be a takeaway shop.
It looks like yet another new spot will be born in the Busshozan area.
The Busshozan area is gradually finding more things that the locals can be proud of. The satisfaction of the residents leads to satisfaction for visitors, and the area is full of charm and vitality, and is constantly developing.
Cafe Asile is a French restaurant renovated from an old house along Onari Kaido.
When you go around to the back side, you'll see contemporary exposed concrete. The contrast with the exterior heightens your sense of expectation.
The interior of the store has been beautifully renovated while retaining original Japanese house materials, and is decorated with Japanese furniture, antique clocks, and more.
We enjoy a French lunch course in a restaurant that has the atmosphere of a traditional Japanese house.
The appetizer platter included marinated mushroom and couscous, prosciutto and pear pinchos, and ratatouille canapes.
Pumpkin soup with cinnamon flavor.
The main dish is meat doria, with rice served at the bottom of a round iron plate, topped with a generous amount of bechamel sauce and fragrant cheese.
This doria was given a unique flavour by using herbs such as oregano, sage and bay leaves.
The dessert was also a unique creation. The panna cotta looked pure white, but had a strong lemon flavor. Apparently lemon peel was used in the boiling process, so even though you can't see it, you can still taste the lemon in this refreshing dessert.
Currently, they are preparing to open a patisserie and cafe that serves sweets. You can also buy souvenirs here. This is one spot where you can feel the innovation that has taken place in Busshozan.
This trip to Kagawa was based around art and crafts, with a focus on old and new places, such as "tradition and the innovation within it" and "established businesses and new openings."
Kagawa Prefecture is known as the smallest prefecture in Japan, but it is packed with various themes that will attract the interest of travelers. Although we were unable to introduce them, Takamatsu City is home to famous architecture such as the copper-plated "Hyakujushi Bank Head Office" and the "Kagawa Prefectural Office" designed by Kenzo Tange, making it a place worth seeing for art and architecture lovers even when it is not during the Setouchi Triennale.
There are many other ways to enjoy Kagawa, including gourmet food and island hopping. The city also boasts the best climate, with the most sunny days in Japan.
Discover your own way to enjoy Kagawa.
The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.
