A gem of a bowl of udon I encountered while traveling. Udon writers select famous restaurants across Japan

The taste of the soup stock of Hakata udon permeates the soul and body. We recommend the delicate and simple burdock tempura udon.

Kaneishi Udon in Hakata, Fukuoka

For me, udon is an essential part of travel. Instead of "Welcome," customers say, "Are you better?" and customers say, "Oh, you're here." I think that local udon shops, where such conversations take place, are like small community salons. That's why, as a traveler, I feel a little nervous when I step into their everyday life. But that feeling quickly turns into a sense of comfort. There is no background music, but you can hear the sound of the water boiling. There are no stylish art panels, but the calendar that never gets turned over has a certain charm. Putting yourself in an unknown everyday life is also the best part of traveling. Hakata udon, which originated from boiling noodles for busy merchants, Sanuki udon, which is particularly delicate and graceful even in Takamatsu, where there are various types of Sanuki udon, and an unknown bowl I encountered in Okinawa, a barren land of udon. I look back on the moments with udon I encountered on my travels.

Just as Osakans have their say on okonomiyaki, Hakata residents love Hakata udon, a dish made with soft noodles and clear broth. If you ask passersby around Tenjin, they will happily answer: "Soul food? That's Hakata udon!" One of my favorite restaurants is Kaneishi Udon. I've been going there every time I visit Fukuoka for the past few years, and their burdock tempura udon is incredibly delicious.

First of all, the appearance is good. Five or six pieces of burdock tempura cut into clappers float on the surface of the soft, chewy udon noodles. It's not flashy enough to go beyond the realm of a "town udon restaurant," but it has a carefree atmosphere that doesn't seem to care about the troubles of the secular world. There's also a sense of nonchalance that makes you feel like you can hear the udon noodles screaming "Ah, what a nice bath" from inside the bowl. And then there's the broth. Just like noodles, I think everyone has their own preferences for broth, but I like ones that are flavored with dried bonito flakes. The broth at Kaneishi Udon is just right, with the roundness of the kelp and the light acidity of the dried bonito flakes perfectly combined, soaking into the body and mind. Once you've put everything in your stomach, a warm and peaceful feeling slowly rises up inside you.

Recently, the number of restaurants in Tokyo that advertise themselves as "Hakata udon" has been increasing. As a Hakata udon fan, I am very happy about this, but there is nothing quite like enjoying Hakata udon in an authentic atmosphere.

Enjoy Sanuki udon in Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture, the birthplace of udon. A long-established restaurant serving pure and beautiful kitsune udon

Kagawa, Takamatsu "Udonbo"

Takamatsu, Kagawa. Udonbo, located right next to Minami-Shinmachi Shopping Street, is a lively restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere that is different from the tourist-filled restaurants. When I entered the restaurant in the afternoon, a female staff member recommended a counter seat near the entrance with a cheerful smile.

I ordered "Kitsune Udon" from the menu, which was handwritten in neat characters. Looking around the restaurant, I noticed that most of the customers were elderly locals. Soon the udon was brought to me. A beautiful triangular piece of fried tofu was topped with a dollop of ginger, and underneath it was a slender, graceful curve of handmade udon noodles made from wheat grown in Kagawa Prefecture.

For personal enjoyment, I sometimes try to personify the udon in front of me. When I do this, I find it interesting to see a variety of personalities emerge, such as a rugged samurai type, a muscular athlete, or an elegant lady. The udon in the "Udon Stick" is soft yet bouncy, and slides smoothly down the throat. It is elegant, yet approachable. It gives the impression of a delicate, fair-skinned, innocent beauty.

The broth was a gentle finish that went well with the delicious udon, and even though this was my seventh bowl since visiting udon shops since early morning, I drank it all down to my stomach. By the way, this kitsune udon was 420 yen. The happiness of being able to eat what you want is easy and delicious.

Kake udon noodles, a treasure found in Okinawa, a land barren of udon noodles

Okinawa Naha "From the Sun"

Most people would be shocked if I said that I went all the way to Okinawa to find an udon restaurant, only to find that I couldn't eat Okinawa soba or rafute. But the joy of finding it in a place where it seems like there aren't any is even greater, and when it's the kind of udon you absolutely love, you'll be jumping for joy in the sun. That's what I felt at the restaurant "Hiyori" located in front of the Okinawa Prefectural Government Office in the center of Naha.

The neat lattice windows and small white noren curtains give the restaurant a cool atmosphere, in stark contrast to the tourist-filled Kokusai-dori street. The moment I opened the door, my stomach reacted to the aroma of dashi soup that hit my nose. I was so happy that I couldn't help but grin, and they probably thought I was a weird woman. I passed behind an elderly couple, sat down in a chair that looked like a giant building block, and sighed deeply. Ah, it's hot. It's still May, but Okinawa is as hot as you'd expect. To be honest, I would have liked to have Zaru Udon noodles rinsed with ice water, but I always try Kake Udon noodles when I first go to a restaurant. The encounter with the dashi soup is one of the pleasures.

The soup stock reflects the sensibility of the chef. He knows the individuality of the ingredients, layers them, and then perfectly matches the peak of flavor. It is a very artistic job, like the relationship between an orchestra and a conductor. The soup stock of "Hiyori" is so clear that it is absorbed into the tongue like a musical tune, leaving a pleasant aftertaste. The addition of the accompanying dried bonito flakes enhances the flavor even more, and together with the smooth udon, you can't help but slurp it down. I drank it all over my bowl, and when I went outside with sweat on my forehead, a breeze blew. I felt a little lonely, as the aroma that had been surrounding my body disappeared in an instant.

Himeji's Kitsune Udon is known for its golden broth

"Kagetsu Udon" in Himeji, Hyogo

I board the Kishin Line, which runs from Himeji Station towards Okayama, and head to Harima Takaoka Station. I pass through the unmanned ticket gate with some nervousness. Kagetsu Udon is a restaurant for locals, located just off the main street. The owner, who was born and raised here, met his wife, who is from Fukuoka, and was enlightened by Fukuoka's gentle udon culture. After training at a famous restaurant in Hakata, he opened Kagetsu Udon. I sit at a counter seat facing the dull-colored wall. I order fox udon, and when I put the menu away, I notice for the first time that there are small ornaments such as maneki-neko (beckoning cats) and owls lined up in front of me. I feel that the owner, who likes such things, must be a nice person. After a while, the udon is brought out.

Three slices of fried tofu, kamaboko fish cake, and spring onions. A delicious aroma rises from the hot bowl along with the steam. The divinely golden broth makes my throat rumble and my nostrils widen. When I put it in my mouth, a complex flavor spreads and I feel like I'm climbing a staircase of umami in one go. At Kagetsu Udon, the broth is made from kelp that has been soaked in water overnight, dried bonito flakes, dried mackerel, round herring, and other ingredients. As I was leaving, the wife, who found out I was from Tokyo, smiled with joy and called out to her husband in the kitchen, "From Tokyo!" They are a down-to-earth couple. Next time I go to Kansai, I'll go see the wife's "crunch" again.

*Some content was updated on August 27, 2019.