*Prices include tax.
Hida beef was born in 1981. It began when the Gifu Prefecture Beef Cattle Research Station purchased a breeding bull named Yasufukugo from Hyogo Prefecture. Hida beef is not that old, having only been a brand for just over 30 years. As you may know, Japan's full-scale meat-eating culture began in the Meiji period. The Wagyu beef that is known around the world today is said to be descended from Tajirigo, born in Hyogo Prefecture in 1939.
This is the ancestor of Tajima beef, known as the "root" of all wagyu beef, and the ancestor of its revival. Raised in a natural environment and fed on soft pasture, the meat of this beef was rich and delicious, and it soon became popular throughout the country. It is the ancestor of world-famous brand beef such as Matsusaka beef and Kobe beef, as well as Hida beef from Gifu Prefecture.
While environmental factors play a key role, "dialogue" also plays an important role in determining meat quality
"Just like vegetables, in highland areas the difference in temperature concentrates the flavor of the ingredients. The flavors are created according to the local climate and environment. I think Hida is probably an ideal environment for raising beef cattle."
These were the words of Hayato Yamamura, who runs Yamayu Livestock Farm on the Sugo Plateau in Hida City. His parents started the livestock farm about 50 years ago, and the company has been producing Hida beef from start to finish for about 30 years.
Integrated production is a labor-intensive production method that takes about four years from breeding (insemination) to finishing the cattle into beef cattle. Currently, the ranch is raising about 160 breeding cows (mother cows), 370 beef cattle, and about 600 head in total, including calves.
Yamamura: "Famous brand beef such as Tajima beef, Omi beef, Matsusaka beef, and Kobe beef have been raised for a long time, but Hida beef has a short history. However, with the cooperation of local governments and businesses, it is now exported all over the world. Each prefecture has many different brand beefs competing for supremacy, but Gifu prefecture has limited its brand beef to Hida beef. It is said that there are about 650,000 breeding cows (mother cows) in Japan, which are the source of beef cattle, but of those, only 10,000 are Hida beef."
Despite this, it has become widely known, largely due to its excellent taste.
"At Yamayuu Livestock, we raise our cows at an altitude of 1,000 meters, with soft spring water and natural pasture, allowing them to grow in a relaxed environment. This is important for producing high-quality Hida beef. Also, to ensure delicious meat, it is important to have a 'communication' with the cows. Each cow has a different parent, so they have a different lineage, personality, and individuality. By carefully understanding the condition of each individual cow and raising them with love from the time they are calves, they will grow up healthy and become delicious Hida beef."
We want to share the deliciousness of our beef. Enjoy Hida beef at our directly managed restaurant, born from this desire.
Wanting people to experience this deliciousness for themselves, Yamamura runs his own restaurant, "Yamayu Beef Ikkan," in Hida City. At lunchtime, the beef is served lava-grilled, with customers grilling it themselves, but at dinnertime (reservations required), Yamamura himself cooks the beef teppanyaki. At dinnertime, a course meal with 150g sirloin starts at 7,000 yen.
"I opened the restaurant about eight years ago. I was forced to close temporarily due to the COVID-19 pandemic, but reopened on May 5, 2023. This prompted me to start grilling the beef myself, with the desire to convey my commitment as a Hida beef producer. I wanted people to be able to eat the Hida beef that I had raised and selected with my own discerning eye right in front of me."
The restaurant is spacious and has private rooms, and can even accommodate large busloads of tourists. Yamamura-san prepared a variety of beautifully marbled beef. This is Yamayu Beef, an original brand of Yamayu Beef, a gem of Hida beef that has been wet aged for about 45 days to condense the umami components.
"We only use female cows that are over 29 months old. We select not only the standard sirloin and fillet, but also other rare cuts, carefully selecting the right degree of aging for eating. We ask that you leave the selection and cooking method up to us. Because I raise the cattle myself, I am confident that you will be able to enjoy the most delicious meat."
Before enjoying the grilled steak on the hot plate, enjoy the delicious flavors cultivated in Hida.
The sight of the chunks of meat may make your throat rumble, but the Yamayu beef is served as a course meal. The appetizers, which you can enjoy while trying to contain your excitement, are also packed with the delicious flavors of Hida.
The appetizers are deep-fried local vegetables, vinegared vegetables, and Shadow Queen and May Queen German potatoes. The special dressing made with yogurt and onions is gentle and nutritious.
One of the most surprising dishes is the local dish called Tsukemono Steak, which is made by grilling fermented pickles. Prepared by the manager and kitchen manager Chiharu Tao, the dish is sure to please your palate.
"We provide about five appetizers, including salads and small dishes, depending on the time of day. They are all handmade and mainly use ingredients from Hida," says Mr. Tao. While we were enjoying the food, the hot plate was heated up.
As soon as the meat sits on the hot plate with a loud sizzling sound, a savory aroma fills the air. It has a slightly sweet, caramel-like aroma.
"When our meat is grilled it gives off a sweet aroma. This is what makes it so delicious."
The work proceeds efficiently. Both sides are browned, then the dome is placed over the fish and it is lightly steamed. The iron spatula dances, making a satisfying clicking sound as the meat is cut into bite-sized portions. The cut surface, a rosy color that sparkles in the mouth, whets the appetite... First, the fillet.
Fillet, sirloin, rump, and misuji. Enjoy the perfectly cooked aged meat.
The meat has a clean texture and is really tender, giving it a aged feel. On the other hand, it is also very fresh and not at all heavy. The red meat is easy to bite into and has a nutty aroma. It has the potential to make you think, "This is all you can get with just meat and salt!"
The opposing sirloin (photo left) is excellent in its fatty flavor. The delicious taste blossoms in your mouth with every bite, and it is cooked just before it melts in your mouth, giving it an exquisitely soft texture. I'm sure it will be especially delicious when paired with rice.
One of the selections for the day was the rump (pictured right). It was powerful and delicious, with the flavor of the meat condensed into it. With every bite, the juices oozed out. It made me want some red wine.
Another rare meat is the misuji (pictured right). It is a gorgeously delicious dish with a firm texture and bursting with flavor.
And finally, the roast rump meat. Cooked slowly over low heat with residual heat, the rump meat has a vivid red color like a flushed cheek, with a delicate beauty. It has a different juiciness to steak, and the flavor is enhanced by Mr. Tao's special ginger-based soy sauce sauce. In fact, this roast beef is based on Mr. Yamamura's proud home cooking, which is also very popular at family events.
Knowing the story behind the food makes it even more delicious. The best part of a gourmet trip to the place where it's produced
"My business is viable thanks to the Hida beef brand. So it's my job to spread the word. The best reward is when someone says it's delicious. When you come to Hida, I want to provide you with an experience that will make you happy by giving you Hida beef as a memory of your trip and making you think, 'That was a great restaurant.' I want people to enjoy not just the delicious food, but also the story of Hida beef, explaining why it's delicious."
Yamamura-san talks at length. Not only is he skilled in animal husbandry and cooking, but he is also a first-rate speaker. He talks about how he moved to Tokyo because he didn't want to work in the family business, how he used his ideas to get a part-time job at a flower shop and livened up the store, and the difficulties he faced in introducing a food truck as a last resort during the COVID-19 pandemic. There is no end to the topics he talks about, including not only Hida beef, but also the history of the business.
"Finally," the stewed beef tendon served with rice is a small dish that has been simmered without water, so the beef flavor is concentrated to the max. The rich flavor makes you want to eat more rice.
Before I knew it, I realized that I had become quite knowledgeable about the deliciousness of Hida beef. The experience of learning about the background of the food in front of me adds depth to the flavor, which is one of the best parts of a gourmet trip to the producing areas. With my intellectual curiosity and appetite fully satisfied, the evening of my delicious trip to Hida Takayama deepened in a rich way.
Yamayu beef
| address | ： | 1-27 Nansei-cho, Furukawacho, Hida City, Gifu Prefecture |
|---|---|---|
| phone | ： | 0577-73-3929 |
| business hours | ： | Lunch: 11:00-15:00 (last orders 14:30) Dinner 18:00-21:00 (Last Order, 20:30) *Reservations are given priority for dinner (reservations required for teppanyaki) |
| Closed Day | ： | Open everyday (may be closed temporarily) |
| web | ： | https://hida-yamayuushi.com |
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The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.
