From the impressive Kaikodon to the dynamic Dinosaur Museum. A thrilling trip to Fukui

Fukui Prefecture, located in the center of Honshu on the Sea of Japan side, is an area that under the old Ritsuryo system straddled Echizen Province and Wakasa Province. It is home to Eiheiji Temple, a Zen temple built by Zen Master Dogen, and the sheer cliffs of the Sea of Japan, such as Tojinbo, giving the prefecture a rugged atmosphere. One of the keywords that unravel the charm of Fukui may be "dynamic."

Fukui is known as the "Dinosaur Prefecture." The impressive Dinosaur Museum will take your breath away.

For example, at Fukui Station, you can see impressive dinosaur motifs everywhere. In fact, Fukui Prefecture is famous for dinosaurs. Many of the dinosaur fossils excavated in Japan have been found in Fukui Prefecture.

The Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum, built in Katsuyama City, Fukui Prefecture, a major producer of dinosaur fossils, is a geological and paleontological museum that focuses on dinosaurs. It underwent a major renovation in July 2023, making it even more attractive and breathtakingly impressive beyond imagination.

As you step into this distinctive building at the end of the large parking lot, you'll be greeted by a long escalator descending from the entrance. Looking up at the ceiling, you'll see a curved white dome. It was designed by world-renowned architect Kurokawa Kisho, who is known for the Nakagin Capsule Tower and other designs. The huge indoor permanent exhibition area, with one basement floor and three aboveground floors and covering 4,500 square meters, is made up of three zones: "The World of Dinosaurs," "Earth Science," and "History of Life."

At the bottom of the escalator, you will find over a thousand specimens, including 50 complete dinosaur skeletons. The approach, named "Dino Street," continues, and on the left and right walls are lined with Jurassic horseshoe crabs and ichthyosaur fossils like an installation. It's a production that will take you back to the age of dinosaurs.

At the end of the corridor is the "Dinosaur World," where a Tyrannosaurus robot awaits. It moves so vividly and roars so realistically that some children start to cry.

In addition to the Tyrannosaurus skeleton, there are also familiar dinosaurs such as Brachiosaurus and Spinosauridae Suchomimus.

In fact, it is rare for a dinosaur skeleton to be excavated in its entirety, and it is common for the bones to be complemented with replicas. However, this Camarasaurus is a rare specimen, with more than 90% of the skeleton being the actual thing. Since most of it is petrified, the body is supported by a sturdy steel frame that can withstand the weight.

Additionally, the "Dinosaurs of Japan and Asia" exhibit features six new species of dinosaurs discovered during excavations in Fukui Prefecture.

In addition to the permanent exhibits, there are many other attractions

The Dinosaur Museum serves as an academic research center. In a normal museum, the storage area is completely separated from the public area, but here it is made of glass, so you can literally get a glimpse "behind the scenes."

The Dino Library is a room that has everything from picture books to specialized books on dinosaurs, geology, and paleontology. You can enjoy reading at your leisure in a relaxed atmosphere.

The special exhibition room, where huge dinosaur skeletons can be seen, is a must-see even when there are no exhibits. The huge three-screen Dino Theater takes you from the streets of Fukui to the world of dinosaurs. You can experience the feeling of being in ancient times.

The new building features a symbolic monument called the "Dinosaur Tower," about 13 meters high, which features five life-size species of dinosaurs and one species of bird discovered in Fukui. It is a popular photo spot that can be enjoyed with the lighting effects.

The renovation has added a new program called the "Fossil Research Experience." This program is aimed at elementary school students and above (elementary school students must be accompanied by a guardian), and although the sophisticated space resembles an apparel store, you can learn a variety of things depending on the season, such as "fossil cleaning," where you remove dinosaur teeth, and "CT fossil observation," where you can observe fossils non-destructively with a CT scan (a separate fee applies for this program).

The museum shop is also well stocked, with a wide selection of dinosaur-related items, so you'll have a great time choosing souvenirs.

Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum

Come to Kobase, a hometown inn where you can experience Showa-era culture and the exquisite flavors of the Sea of Japan.

After reluctantly leaving the Dinosaur Museum, where we could spend an entire day, we drove an hour and a half towards the Sea of Japan. We visited Kobase, a hometown inn in Echizen Town, to experience the charms of dynamic seafood.

This is the inn of the great writers. This seaside hot spring inn is well known for being a favorite of the author Kaiko Takeshi, who has also written many books about food.

As you step inside the building, you'll see calligraphy and illustrations displayed here and there. There are calligraphy by Takeshi Kaiko, works by illustrator Ryohei Yanagihara, known as his partner, and paintings by Hideko Yamashita, a picture letter writer from Echizen Town. Being able to trace the footsteps of big names who made a big impact on Showa culture is sure to be a great reason to visit the inn.

Each room has its own unique atmosphere, and the Japanese-style rooms have the feel of a hot spring inn. In the special room that Kaiko loved, the shelves are lined with a variety of books, making it seem as if you can feel the breath of the great writer.

The hot springs, with nothing blocking your view, are also exceptional. The Sea of Japan stretches out before you, and after the sun sets, you can see fishing lights below you. The hypertonic weakly alkaline hot spring water, which is said to be effective for muscle and joint pain and back pain, will soothe your travel fatigue.

Reservations are flooding in from all over the country! The legendary "Kaiko Bowl" is only available in early winter

In December, the restaurant is bustling with customers. One of the most popular dishes is the Kaiko-don. It is a popular dish that sells out as soon as reservations open every year. Only seven groups per day can eat it at lunchtime. It is also served in the dining area for overnight guests, but this time we will be having it in our rooms as a special treat.

Mr. Hase : "The Kaiko-don was named after the writer Takeshi Kaiko, who was a frequent visitor to the inn, who suggested we name it Kaiko-don because it was so delicious. It started because the previous owner had already served all kinds of crab dishes, so he offered this dish, which was like turning over a treasure chest of the sea, on the last night of a stay at the inn. It is only available from mid-November to mid-January (lunchtime is until December). This is because the Seiko crab, which is the main ingredient, begins spawning in mid-January, so this is a measure to protect the resource."

These are the words of the fifth-generation owner, Hiroshi Hase. Seiko crabs are female Echizen crabs. Although they are small, they are a rare delicacy that becomes even tastier in the winter before spawning. Kaiko-don is basically a meal that finishes off a course. Let's follow suit and enjoy the winter flavors that are unique to Fukui in winter.

You'll be full before you even get to the bowl. A gorgeous and luxurious dish full of crab.

And so what appeared before my eyes was a luxurious crab-filled lunch course that cost 30,000 yen and included the Kaiko-don. When it comes to crab, it has to be boiled. At Kobase, they use male Echizen crabs and take great care in preparing them.

Mr. Hase : "We put the crabs, which live at depths of 150 to 200 meters, into the fish tanks for about three days to let them spit out the sand, and then keep them alive at a temperature that stabilizes the meat. We are also very particular about the boiling time and the amount of salt we use."

The saltiness and flavor are excellent, and you can enjoy the strong flavor of the crab meat. It is also packed with tomalley, with just the right amount of saltiness. While boiled crab has a fluffy texture that falls apart easily, grilled crab is delicious in that the flavor is tightly sealed in. The firm texture of the crab meat makes you realize that it is made of muscle.

The baby's fist size crab tomalley (top right in photo) is homemade, simmered for 4-5 hours. It's rich and salty, and the concentrated flavor will make you want to give applause. It's so delicious that you'll crave hot sake.

Next is the Seiko crab with grated radish (bottom right in photo). Fukui is a major producer of daikon radishes, so it's a collaboration between the mountains and the sea. It's a masterpiece that evokes the image of the rough sea in winter.

Next up is the Tsukimi crab (bottom left in photo). The crab meat is topped with a sweet vinegar and egg white. The plump crab meat dances as if swimming in the refreshing vinegar. The strength is not to be outdone by the sweetness, and it will have you squirming in pleasure.

The last dish is the crab Sashimi. The crab is cleaned live and then quickly put into cold water, and the crab meat opens up like a flower blooming from its freshness. The crab's flavor is fully revealed in the sticky texture. There is no fishy smell at all. You can feel the richness and umami of the crab.

The long-awaited Kaikodon has finally arrived. Simple yet rich in flavour, it's a colourful and majestic dish!

Although the colorful garnish is very satisfying, the main subject of this article is the rice bowl. The long-awaited Kaiko rice bowl is even more impressive than I had expected. The Seiko crab is piled high on top of the rice, creating a strong contrast of red and white. I heard that this rice bowl is enough for four adults and weighs at least 2kg.

Its steaming, splendid appearance seems to be begging to be eaten quickly. Every part of the crab is used, including the crab meat, tomalley, outer roe, and inner roe. Seiko crab is small, so it is broken down by hand. It's a simple process, but it takes a surprising amount of time and effort.

The fibrous flesh has a light flavor, the fluffy sweetness of the inner roe, the sticky, melting tomalley , the crunchy texture of the outer roe... the variety of textures is enjoyable, but what is most surprising is the contrast in flavor. Each has a different taste, and this bowl is rich and mellow.

I also need to mention the soy sauce based sauce, which acts as a bridge between the ingredients and the rice. In order to use every last bit of the precious crab, the shells are boiled for three hours to create a stock, which is then mixed with soy sauce to create a special sauce. This sauce also does a great job.

Satisfy your mind and body with a trip to Fukui where you can be immersed in its dynamism.

The gorgeous flavor is so strong that it even drowns out the smell of the sea, and I dig into it mindlessly. Even though the crab no longer has its shell attached, it leaves me speechless, which could be said to be the magic of the crab.

This time, the original size is 7 crabs and 2 cups of rice, but since it is a large serving for 4 people, it can be arranged to be a half size of 3 crabs and 1 cup of rice for 1-2 people. However, the Kaiko bowl is provided on the condition that you order a course meal (it is included in the 30,000 yen lunch course).

"The price has risen sharply in recent years, and I feel sorry about that, but the culture of eating crab locally must not be lost, so we continue with this tradition," Hase explains, and just as he explains, his heartfelt hospitality is evident in this hearty, plentiful menu.

Once we finished eating, it was already dusk. The sun was setting over the Sea of Japan. The grayish beach was turning red, matching the flushed complexion of our faces from our full stomachs. I heard that Kaiko had visited Kobase more than 10 times during his lifetime.

Not only crabs in this season, but also sea urchins, abalone, blackthroat seaperch, etc. take center stage depending on the season. The deliciousness of the Sea of Japan in each season beckons. I vow to myself to come back at a different time next time, and my heart and steps are light as I rub my heavy stomach and think about where I should go in Fukui next.

Hometown Inn Kobase

Related article

Explore the changing faces of the town on the ground and on high ground. Wakasa Town in Fukui Prefecture, where nature and historical romance lure you

Wakasa Town in Fukui Prefecture is surrounded by the sea, mountains, and lakes, and is a small town rich in nature where time flows slowly. Wakasa Town is a town full of charm that can only be found here, with magnificent scenery that changes depending on where you look, and ancient historical romance.

ontrip.jal.co.jp