A trip to Niigata's famed entertainment district. A winter stroll through the city to meet the "Furumachi Geisha"

*Masks are removed only for photo shoots.

Arriving in Niigata City on a slightly cloudy day, your breath is white and you can feel the footsteps of winter as the trees rustle in the wind. If you visit just as the new rice season arrives and new sake is ready, you'll be sure to enjoy the food, but getting acquainted with traditional culture will also make for a wonderful trip. Niigata City is home to the "Furumachi Geisha" that has flourished since the Edo period, and there are facilities where you can not only enjoy entertainment at the geisha bar, but also interact with them.

Geigi-san are professionals who entertain in tatami rooms. They are synonymous with geisha and maiko. There are currently about 30 geigi-san, and depending on the kimono they wear, young geisha are called "furisode-san" and those with some experience are called "tomesode-san." This is apparently a way of calling them that is unique to Niigata.

Furumachi Street: A historic shopping district where you might encounter a geisha

A 10-minute walk from Niigata Station, crossing the Bandai Bridge, you'll come across an arcade street stretching between the Shinano River and the Sea of Japan.

This is "Furumachi." As the name suggests, it is a bustling downtown area with a long history. It is said to have once flourished as a red-light district, and you will see that it still retains strong traces of that past. While there are long-established stores that have watched over the town's history, in recent years new concept stores have also been born, and the contrast between these two will make your walk around the town a fulfilling one.

If you walk around the town, you might be able to see geisha in their gorgeous attire.

Furumachi Street

Use the "Niigata Furumachi Port Information Center" as a base for walking around the town

Use the Niigata Furumachi Port Information Center, a place that disseminates information about Furumachi, as a base for your stroll around the town. A visit to the center, which has a concept of conveying the history and charm of the area in an easy-to-understand way, will surely add an academic charm to your trip.

The second floor is a multi-purpose space called "Kaname" that is used for music events and symposiums. There is also a farm produce shop called "Wakuwaku Marche" where you can enjoy shopping.

Niigata Furumachi Port Information Center

Gyogaitei Japanese Restaurant: A restaurant with a history of about 300 years

If you visit the entertainment district with a geisha, a traditional Japanese restaurant is a must.

In the days when ships were the main means of distribution, Niigata, facing the Sea of Japan and bordering the Shinano and Agano rivers, flourished as a key location. New rice fields were actively developed, and many people came and went. They also began to enjoy banquets with geisha and food at traditional Japanese restaurants, as a place for business negotiations.

In Niigata's geisha culture, there is no strict rule of refusing first-time customers at traditional Japanese restaurants. It is a culture in which anyone can feel welcome, and this culture is still alive and well today.

Founded in the mid-Edo period, Japanese cuisine restaurant Gyokeitei Ikinariya is one of the oldest restaurants with a history of about 300 years. Various private rooms of different sizes are available here and there in the vast garden of 6,690m2, where black pines that are several hundred years old grow, including a spectacular large hall of 140 tatami mats. You can enjoy seasonal cuisine and scenery.

A geisha can be invited for about 12,000 yen per person for one hour. If eight people gather, the cost of two hours will be split at 3,000 yen. The cost of a full set of parlor games, including hand games such as "Taruken" and "Gyo-jiken" where you have to drink the whole cup as a penalty if you lose, and enjoying a geisha dance, is said to be relatively reasonable compared to other regions. As they are professionals who make the enjoyment of their customers their number one priority, along with the hospitality of an elegant restaurant, satisfaction is guaranteed.

Japanese cuisine Gyogaitei (Ikinariya)

At "Furumachi Ryuto Cafe" you can casually interact with geisha

In Niigata, there is a way to meet a geisha without having to call one at a traditional Japanese restaurant. At the "Furumachi Ryuto Cafe," geisha are on hand to serve customers, and you can enjoy interacting with them over tea. Geisha's daily cycle is to practice in the morning and perform in a tatami room in the evening. As a new attempt to make effective use of the afternoon hours, a corner of the waiting room has been turned into a cafe.

Across the corridor is a tatami room overlooking the small garden, which is the cafe space. If you order a matcha set (800 yen), Yukimuro coffee (600 yen), or black tea (600 yen), a geisha will serve you. Also, every Saturday from 1pm, you can enjoy a dance performance by two geisha (reservations required two days in advance. 1,000 yen per person).

"We have prepared dried chrysanthemum and chestnut sweets for you," said Hiroka, who beautifully served them. She is a furisode wearer from Niigata who has been wearing them for three years. She was also able to talk to us and tell us about geisha. Kazama and Ichinose asked her, "Why did you choose this path?"

"I became a geisha after graduating from university. I majored in English while at school, and when I studied abroad, local people praised Niigata for its culture. It made me regretful that I didn't know much about Niigata. I was amazed to see girls my age shining brightly, and I wanted to be one too, so I entered this world. A kimono weighs about 1.5 to 2 kg, and I had a hard time getting used to it at first. The kimonos worn by tomesode kimonos are even heavier."

It's the professional conversation skills that make the atmosphere so relaxed. At the same time, you'll be surprised to learn that it's a profession that can be chosen just like any other company, something that's unique to Niigata. In order to secure the manpower that was once on the decline, the local business community has made a determined effort to turn it into a business. It seems that they have elevated geisha to an "attractive profession." You'll be able to experience the excitement that can only come from interacting with the leading figures of the entertainment district.

Furumachi Ryuto Cafe

Take a tour of the internationally acclaimed Imayotsukasa Sake Brewery for adults

The sake served at traditional Japanese restaurants is of course from Niigata, a famous sake-producing region. Imayotsukasa Sake Brewery is a long-established sake brewery with over 250 years of history, but one of its attractions is that it is open to tourists. You can drop in casually and even tour the brewery. The 120-year-old building was recently renovated, and you'll be greeted by a bright, modern interior, but behind it you'll find the traditional sake brewery facilities.

"Sake brewing starts in the latter half of October. We sprinkle koji mold on steamed rice that has been soaked in water, and then control the temperature to make 'koji rice,'" explained public relations officer Emiko Nakajima as she carefully explained the brewing process. Sake breweries that only make pure rice sake without adding brewer's alcohol are rare even nationwide. Their sincere and innovative approach has earned them a high reputation worldwide.

There is a sales space at the entrance of the brewery, but what's unique about it is that it's called a "sake boutique." It can be used for a variety of purposes, such as workshops. After touring the brewery, you can enjoy a tasting (two types of amazake and one type of seasonal sake are free; a premium option that allows you to sample all types costs 1,000 yen).

I tried a sip. Ichinose, who is underage and chose the non-alcoholic amazake, praised it, saying, "It's very sweet, has a gentle rice flavor, and is easy to drink! The grainy texture is also fun." Kazama, who is just starting to learn about alcohol, chose the daiginjo sake. He seemed to like it, saying, "It's refreshing and easy to drink. It goes down well, and I like it."

If you're looking for a souvenir to take home from your trip to enjoy geisha culture, how about "Hanayagikai Sweet Junmai Ginjo" (300ml, from 770 yen). It's a light drink that even those who don't like sake can enjoy. When you put it in your mouth, a vivid sweetness spreads. It's also popular as a cocktail base.

Imayotsukasa Sake Brewery

The Ozawa Family Residence conveys the traditional townhouse atmosphere of a simple, sturdy, luxurious building.

The port city of Niigata was one of the bases for the Kitamae-bune ships that traveled busily as a distribution network linking Honshu and Hokkaido. Commercial cities are home to many famous families. The Ozawa family grew rapidly after the Meiji period by operating a shipping business and shipping wholesale business. The mansion that still remains today gives a glimpse into the history of the merchant family.

Once you step inside, past the modest exterior that blends in with the streetscape, you'll see that it's a luxurious piece of Japanese architecture that makes lavish use of high-quality wood. It was built in the typical Niigata townhouse style, with high ceilings that ensured brightness and comfort. The tatami room (shin-zashiki), where soft light pours in, is made entirely of straight-grained fine wood. These were used for receptions.

There are several storehouses at the back of the kitchen, which are said to have survived the great fire that occurred in 1880. There are also several other rooms connected to the storehouse.

The garden, which imitates the borrowed scenery of Matsushima, is fitted out with countless garden stones and stone lanterns collected from all over the country, as well as beautiful, well-maintained pine trees arranged in a balanced manner, creating a beautiful and atmospheric sight.

Former Ozawa Family Residence

"Hariito" - A long-established confectionery shop that recommends castella cakes

If you're looking for something sweet, come to this place that has long been loved by Niigata citizens and geisha. The name "Hariito" is said to come from the fact that it was started by Itokura of Harimaya. Founded in 1873, this long-established store that first served castella in Niigata is a popular local shop that is constantly visited by customers. It also has a workshop, and a faint sweet aroma wafts through the air.

Among them, the "Local Sake Castella" (1,100 yen) contains five cups of sake in one piece. It is rich in flavor and is sure to be a welcome souvenir for alcohol lovers.

Also, don't miss the plain "Castella" (850 yen). Made with fresh eggs and lightly baked, the moist texture of the dough is simple and cannot be faked. It has a high-quality and refined feel, and it's no wonder it won the top prize at a nationwide castella contest and became a signature product.

Needle thread

Suzuki Coffee's original blend "Niigata Furumachi Geigi"

If you want to buy some more souvenirs, try the gift from Suzuki Coffee, a popular coffee brand in Niigata. One blend you should definitely try on this trip is "Niigata Furumachi Geigi."

They are made using Geisha beans, which are known as the mythical coffee produced in Ethiopia, and are characterized by their fruity and gorgeous flavor. What is noteworthy is that each was blended by the Furumachi Geisha herself. Choose the rich and full-bodied Tomesodesan or the slightly sour and refreshing Furisodesan (200 yen each), whichever you prefer. They are the perfect memento of your trip or as a souvenir for someone.

NIIGATA COFFEE DONYA BAY STANDARD

UNLIMITED by SUZUKI COFFEE

A friendly town where everyone can enjoy traditional hospitality

Niigata still has a strong geisha culture, centered around traditional Japanese restaurants. Many "Japanese arts" including gardens are still in existence today.

Facing the Sea of Japan, Niigata is known for its rice and sake growing regions, and its culinary appeal is also an essential part of the story. As a key transportation hub, seasonal produce is a given, and is cultivated in kaiseki banquet meals at traditional Japanese restaurants. The entertainment district is a major hub for all of this culture. Niigata's openness to even first-time visitors is one example of its generosity. It's an experience you can easily enjoy, and the impressions you gain from it are sure to be exceptionally moving.