Enter the world of "Tamba ware", one of the six ancient kilns of Japan
The setting for Todomari is the Tachikui area of Tanba Sasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture, about a 50-minute drive from Osaka International Airport (Itami Airport) in Toyonaka City, Osaka Prefecture. The beautifully maintained fields at the foot of the mountains, surrounded by natural forests, are a nostalgic sight that will put your mind at ease even if it's your first time here.
In this rural area, Tamba ware, with a history of over 850 years, continues to be preserved. Even today, over 50 kilns are scattered around the area, preserving traditional techniques while continuing to take on new challenges every day.
Located in the heart of the Tachikui region, "Sue no Sato" (Tanba Traditional Crafts Park, Tachikui Sue no Sato) is a complex facility where you can experience the charm of Tamba ware, with a ceramics exhibition and sales area, gallery, pottery classes, climbing kilns, restaurants, etc. 51 potteries are exhibiting and selling their unique works, and you can see the diverse expressions of Tamba ware, from traditional pieces to contemporary design tableware.
What is Tamba ware?
Tanba-yaki is a historic pottery that is counted among the "Six Ancient Kilns of Japan" along with Seto, Tokoname, Shigaraki, Bizen, and Echizen. As a region that has produced pottery for everyday use by ordinary people in line with the times, it is sometimes said that its "characteristic is that it has no distinctive features." However, traditional Tanba-yaki techniques such as "ash covering" and "shinogi" are still carried on today, and the new expressions born from these techniques and the tableware that is easy to use for everyday use are the characteristics of modern Tanba-yaki.
Experience "Tohaku" by spending time in a potter's studio
"Tohaku" is a new style of travel where you can stay in a potter's studio. It is not just a "pottery experience", but a special travel experience that allows you to immerse yourself deeply in the daily life of a potter and experience the craftsmanship firsthand.
The greatest attraction of "Tohaku" is the opportunity to spend a rich experience that you can't get on a tourist trip, and to have a deep exchange with the ceramic artists. It's a two-day experience where you can experience the thoughts and lifestyles behind the craftsmanship, and get a feel for the very way of life of the people involved in the creation of things. So, what kind of experience awaits you?
1. Learn about Tamba ware with a potter's guide
Our guide on this trip was Ichino Hiromichi, the third-generation potter of Ichino Denichigama. He was born and raised locally and is a young potter who took over the family business and began his career in pottery.
At the "Tounosato" where the pottery stay experience begins, you will be greeted by a tour guide called a "Satobito Guide." The "Satobito Guide" is a person who works as a potter in the area.
Let's start learning about Tamba ware with Ichino-san's guidance! First, let's talk about the characteristics of Tamba ware.
"One of the main features is the 'ash covering'. The original design was created when ash naturally covered the piece while it was being fired in a climbing kiln, but nowadays ash is sometimes intentionally applied to create bold patterns. Different types of wood are used and the way the ash is applied creates a variety of different expressions."
There are also mysterious patterns that look like the shadow of a flame... Is there a reason for this too?
"Anywhere the fire passes through in the kiln, a unique pattern is created. This is one of the attractions of Tamba ware. Some artists even calculate these flame patterns and position their pieces accordingly."
After learning more about these characteristics, we next went to a kiln, Ichino Denichigama, owned by Ichino himself.
The soft smell of earth wafts from the workshop, and you can feel the breath of the craftsmen as they devote themselves to their work. All processes are carried out here, from making the clay to shaping, glazing, and firing.
After touring the workshop, we headed to the "Oldest Climbing Kiln" of Tamba ware, which is also a cultural asset of Japan Heritage. The kiln, which has been in use since the Meiji period, is about 47 meters long and follows the slope of the mountain...! It is a huge kiln that continues to fire ware even today.
He uses electric and gas kilns for his everyday work, but fires his most special pieces in a climbing kiln.
"It takes three days and three nights to bake the fish, so I get very little sleep during that time. I can lose 3 to 4 kilograms in one baking session," says Ichino.
It's easy to see why the texture is so unique, and it's only possible with so much effort put into it.
Finally, we went to the "Haido Factory." Most of the Tamba ware kilns use clay from this factory. Although each kiln and each piece has its own unique mix, the raw clay is the same. The dry raw clay that crumbles when you touch it is kneaded in the factory, shaped and fired in the kiln, and evolved into a piece of art.
② Experience the life of a potter
After walking around the town with Ichino-san, we headed to Shoyogama, where we were staying. We were warmly greeted by Ogami Yuki, the third generation owner, and his wife Ayako.
The building is two stories tall, with the store and workshop on the first floor. The first floor has a comfortable open ceiling and is a showroom and shop where everyday tableware is displayed. You can also purchase any tableware you like.
In the gallery on the second floor, works from three generations of the family, from traditional tea utensils to modern objects, are displayed in a relaxed manner. It's like an art museum... a space where you can feel the art.
Shoyogama is popular for its style of work that incorporates modern designs while still maintaining traditional techniques. In particular, the works created by Yuki, the third-generation potter, using the "shinogi" technique, which involves scraping the clay with a spatula, are attractive for their modern yet warm designs. Although the pottery has a long history, you will be drawn in by its exquisite texture that matches any interior.
Furthermore, the atrium terrace above the store offers a panoramic view of the Tachikui mountains. I couldn't help but stretch and take a deep breath. The clear air and beautiful nature instantly put me in a relaxed mood, and I felt like I was gradually getting closer to this land.
After enjoying the gallery, we headed to our lodging for the night. We were staying in a room at the back of the gallery on the second floor. As our guide told us, this room had a "kiln view," and from the window we could see the climbing kiln! After enjoying this rare view, we put our bags down and had a relaxing cup of tea with some Tamba ware tea ware.
For dinner, many people from the town gather, including our guide, Mr. Ichino. As we eat carefully prepared food such as mountain delicacies, wild game, and barbecue, all the tension disappears. There is endless conversation about what it means to live as a potter and daily life in Satoyama. Tachikui says that even if people leave the town to continue their studies or to train in pottery, many of them return and take over the kiln. I felt a refreshing heat coming from the young potters' love for their hometown and their passion for pottery.
For breakfast the next morning, we had pancakes from the local burger shop "Konato" on the pleasant open terrace. As we gradually became accustomed to the atmosphere of Tachikui, a smile naturally came to our faces.
After that, it's time to experience being an apprentice to a potter. After cleaning up, you can get a close-up look at Ogami and the other potters at work. You can hear the sounds of kneading the clay, turning the potter's wheel, rubbing the pottery, and various other work sounds.
The first job of the apprenticeship experience is to rub the bottom of the pottery smoothly. The file is applied in a straight line to make it flat. The apprentices concentrate to make it flat, and apply force gently and carefully. They work earnestly under the guidance of the potter. Apparently the potters also continued this work every day at first.
"Next, let's take the pottery out of the kiln," we were told, and we headed to the electric kiln. This is the process of taking the fired pieces out of the kiln. It's rare to get the chance to touch hot, freshly fired pottery. Wearing work gloves, we carefully take each shiny piece out of the hot kiln.
Once the apprenticeship experience, in which I felt like a part of the pottery studio, was over, it was time to head home before I knew it. Although I was reluctant to leave, the two days I spent with the potter became an irreplaceable memory. Since it was a trip where I came into close contact with many people, it seems like my communication skills have improved...? By experiencing a profession that is completely different from my usual one, it seems like it will be an opportunity to reflect on myself now. I naturally left the studio with a firm handshake and a "I'll come again!"
3. Seeing Tamba from the same perspective as the potters
After the Tohaku experience, we drove through the road in Tachikui. It was the same road as yesterday, but the scenery looked completely different from the day before. The rural scenery that I only thought was "pretty" now makes me feel that "the rich nature and four seasons born from this soil support Tamba ware." I was also interested in the signs of the potteries here and there, imagining the history and individuality that is embedded in each one.
The Tohaku experience was not just about learning about pottery techniques and knowledge, but also about experiencing the feelings of the people who live in Tachikui, and their history, culture, and coexistence with nature. I think I have come to understand and empathize with this land a little better than being a mere tourist.
Want to know more about this area? We asked potters about their recommended spots.
Through my experience at Tohaku, I was completely captivated by the charm of Tachikui. Wanting to know more about this area... After checking out, I asked Ogami, "Is there anywhere else where I can feel the atmosphere of Tachikui?" He smiled and told me about three spots. Now, I'm off on my journey to explore Tachikui even more.
If you're looking for souvenirs, head to Tounosato Pottery Alley
Finding souvenirs is an essential part of wrapping up your trip. "Kamamoto Yokocho" is the flagship store for Tamba ware in "Tounosato," and is lined with works from 51 potteries.
As you walk along the alley, browsing the booths lining the street, you'll come across a truly diverse range of items, from traditional tea utensils to modern tableware and innovative objects.
We chose blue tea bowls as souvenirs for this trip. Find your favorite one.
Pottery Village and Pottery Alley
| address | ： | 3 Kamitachikui, Imadacho, Tanbasasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture |
|---|---|---|
| phone | ： | 079-597-2034 |
| business hours | ： | 10:00～17:00 |
| Closed Day | ： | Tuesdays (open on public holidays), New Year's holiday (December 29th - January 1st) |
| ： | @tanbayaki_official |
Local delicacies in galettes "SAKURAI"
"SAKURAI" restaurant is a recommended lunch spot after the pottery experience, where you can enjoy the marriage of Tamba ware and food. The signature dish is "galette", a local dish from Brittany, France.
The owner chef is a crepier (galette craftsman) who honed his skills in France, and the main dish for lunch is galette. The fragrant, chewy dough and the ingredients match so well that you won't be able to stop eating... The dishes, which use an abundance of local ingredients, are served on Tamba ware and are visually stunning.
SAKURAI
| address | ： | 44 Shimotachikui, Imadacho, Tanbasasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture |
|---|---|---|
| phone | ： | 079-506-7735 |
| business hours | ： | 11:00-18:00 (Lunch 11:00-14:00, Café 14:30-18:00) |
| Closed Day | ： | Irregular holidays |
| ： | @sakurai.tachikui |
Observation spot "Hill overlooking Tachikui-no-Sato"
The last stop is a view spot with a spectacular view, the mountain opposite "Tonosato." Breathlessly, we climbed the slope to the top of the hill.
The tranquil countryside, the roofs of pottery factories scattered around, and the lush green mountains beyond make you gasp in surprise. The history and culture of Tachikui are condensed into this panoramic view.
The "Tohaku Experience" allows you to immerse yourself in Tachikui for two days. When you recall the feel of the pottery, the heat of the kiln, and the warm time you spent with the potters, including Ogami-san and Ichino-san, you will feel a gentle warmth that reminds you of a second home, and at the same time, you will be able to absorb new things and experience the growth of yourself. Why not try a Tohaku trip to get to know the land in depth on your next trip?
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The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.
