Bears in the west and anglerfish in the east. Enjoy the winter flavors that can only be found here

When you find yourself surrounded by the sound of trickling spring water on the hillside of Shiga Prefecture's Hira Mountains, covered in snow here and there, you can't help but get excited about the culinary delights that await you.

The best bear meat, sought after for many years

Hirasanso is a famous bear restaurant that impresses foodies not only in nearby Kyoto but all over Japan, and is known only to those in the know. When you step through the noren, you will be greeted by the faint, pleasant scent of incense wood. It is said to be from Shoyeido, a long-established Kyoto restaurant. When you are led to the inner room in the new wing, which was built from cedar wood donated from a nearby temple, you can see the garden.

Ito: "The hunting season is from November 15th to February 15th, which is common throughout the country. We have to use the strongest bears that have been storing fat since autumn. We consulted with hunters on various matters and over many years we expanded our network of bear hunters. At first, we bought bears that were not of very good quality, knowing full well. Only by buying all bears, both good and bad, can we build relationships of trust and be able to communicate the bad things. By doing this repeatedly, the chances of coming across high-quality bear meat increased dramatically."

The owner, Goji Ito, explains. Soon, the bear meat and vegetables are brought out. Snow-white, fat-filled bear meat, watercress with pointed leaves that you rarely see in supermarkets, and stately nameko mushrooms.

Ito: "This white fat is not found in any other meat. We call it the white meat. When you hear bear meat, you might think it sounds wild, but once you try it, you'll be surprised at how elegant and refined it is. It's definitely different to what you'd imagine. Bear meat is in a class of its own among game meats. Because it's a wild animal, the quality of the meat cannot be controlled. The bear itself needs to be strong and large, and the bullet must be hit perfectly, the blood must be drained, and the meat must be butchered perfectly, otherwise it will have an unpleasant odor and be tough."

A clay pot filled with soup stock is placed on top of briquettes containing red-stained charcoal, and the soup is brought to a boil by fanning with a fan. As soon as the water starts to boil, the bear meat is quickly dipped in it. It is ready to eat within a few seconds. The pot is quickly removed from the pot and served hot.

The taste of the bounty of the mountains is hard to compare to.

I put it in my mouth with the slightly sweet and salty broth. The rich flavor of the fat spreads throughout my mouth. This is what I call "mouth happiness." It has no bitterness or smell, and it's not too greasy either. The texture of the fat is similar to duck meat. But it's different from chicken. The red meat, which is in stark contrast to the white meat, also has no smell, is similar to beef but a little different, and is full of an indescribable flavor.

Ito-san: "The sweetness of this broth is actually honey. Bear meat is meat that has no comparison. Some people say it's similar to whale meat, but you won't understand until you try it. It has no bitterness or astringency, and is smooth. There are nicknames for animal meat, such as peony and cherry blossom, but there is no name for bear. That's how rare an animal it is. The "moon" in our Tsuki Nabe refers to bear meat, but I came up with the name myself. Someone once asked me, 'What's a bear called?' So I compared it to the moon in the word Tsuki-wa-kuma and the moon in the word Setsugekka. It's something that can be enjoyed for a short time before the snow falls and the flowers bloom."

The final dish is wild yam rice porridge. Wild yam from Shiga Prefecture is added to the rice porridge boiling with dashi stock and carefully mixed with a spoon in the pot. Scoop it onto a plate and top with a pinch of river seaweed. The fragrant aroma is so fragrant that you can't help but pour it over, and it has a fluffy texture. The stronger dashi stock and wild yam are combined with rice to create a delicious trinity. There is more to enjoy.

Ito: "In spring, I make Hana Sansho Nabe (Japanese pepper hotpot). I put a lot of Sansho flowers in the moon stew, and the whole room is filled with the refreshing scent of Sansho. In spring, wild vegetables are also available all at once. There are a lot of river fish such as young sweetfish, char and amago trout. I look forward to serving it."

Hearing such stories makes my throat rumble again, but it also makes me feel like I have something to look forward to visiting outside of winter.

Hirasanso

*Reservations are required. "Tsuki Nabe" (course meal starting from 24,200 yen per person, tax included, service charge not included) is available only from mid-November to the end of March.

Anglerfish from Oarai, which was presented to the Tokugawa family in the past

Now that we've introduced you to the wild game of the west, how about turning our attention to the east and trying some seafood that is unique to winter? We visited Mito City, Ibaraki Prefecture. This area, close to Oarai Port, has long been a thriving fishing ground for anglerfish.

Takano: "Oarai monkfish was once presented to the Tokugawa family. It is so delicious that it is called the fugu of the west and the monkfish of the east. It can be enjoyed all year round, but it is especially delicious in winter. You can enjoy dobushi soup, which is only available during this time of year."

The proprietress, Takano Kimiko, explained it to us. Although the name sounds a little unbelievable, it is a traditional fisherman's dish. It is a hot pot dish that uses monkfish, but it is different from "monkfish hot pot." It is a local dish unique to Ibaraki, made by dry-frying fresh raw monkfish liver in a pot and adding miso and dashi stock. It is a taste that can only be enjoyed in the winter, when fresh, high-quality raw meat and liver are available.

Takano: "There are various theories about the name, such as the fact that it was named "dobushiru" (a soup with melted monkfish liver) because it looked like that. However, because it is made only from the water in vegetables, it is too bitter and slimy and too rich to eat, so in recent years it has come to be made by adding dashi, but you can still taste the liver to your heart's content. It has a completely different taste from regular monkfish hotpot."

As I was listening to this story, the ingredients for the hot pot were brought out. The white, translucent flesh was incredibly alluring and appetizing. Apparently, it was made from a large monkfish caught the day before, which was washed and left to rest for a day to bring out its flavor. Before the hot pot started to boil, the appetizer served was a beautifully plump monkfish liver.

Richly flavored liver and richly textured white meat

Takano: "This is also only available in the winter. We use the best selected monkfish and take the time to make it this way."

The finest ankimo (2,200 yen, tax included). It is topped with a ponzu jelly. It is smoother, richer, and more flavorful than the usual one. It glides smoothly over the tongue and melts softly in the mouth. The rich flavor that rises makes you feel like your mouth is melting, but before you can enjoy the aftertaste, the dobushi soup you have been waiting for starts to steam in the iron pot.

The miso soup, with plenty of liver, is quite wild. Take a scoop and when you put the hot soup in your mouth, the rich flavor of the monkfish liver spreads brilliantly along with the saltiness.

The soup is superb, but the bouncy elasticity of the monkfish is also amazing. The crispy gills, crunchy stomach, and popping ovaries all have different textures and flavors, and it's amazing how one ingredient can produce such a variety of flavors. It's no wonder they say "no part of monkfish is wasted."

Among the winter vegetables that are also popular, such as Chinese cabbage, green onions, daikon radish, burdock, and chrysanthemum, Chinese cabbage and green onions are the highlights. They are thick and sweet, as you would expect from a place where they are grown. However, I don't recommend eating them all in one go.

Takano-san: "Please eat it slowly. The gelatin from the monkfish will gradually dissolve, giving it a richer flavor. Save it for the last dish, the rice porridge. The remaining broth, rice, and chives make a refreshing dish."

Mito Sansui

* "Dobushiru" (2 servings, 6,050 yen, tax included) must be reserved at least 3 days in advance.

Winter isn't the only time to enjoy Japan. There are seasonal delicacies for every season.

I gobbled it down lightly and was full. As I left the restaurant, the strong winter wind from the Pacific Ocean blew in, but because my body had been warmed to the core, I didn't feel the cold as much. The monkfish, which attracts fans from all over Japan during the season, was full of the strength you'd expect from a fisherman's dish.

Such encounters with food are moments when we can truly be thankful to have been born in Japan, where we can enjoy the seasonal flavors of each season. All of these flavors can be enjoyed before the snow melts, but don't be hasty. It might be better to wait until the world calms down a bit. The flavors of spring in spring and summer in summer are eagerly awaiting their arrival.