
Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.
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Try Ehime's specialty "Jakoten" at Torizu Kamaboko Shop, located very close to Yawatahama Station.
You can get to Yawatahama from Matsuyama City Station by train or bus. This time, I took a leisurely bus ride. Right in front of the bus stop I arrived at was a bicycle rental shop called "Mecenat Drive" (inside Tanimoto Kamaboko). You can make reservations online for bicycle rentals in Yawatahama, and you can even rent a bicycle for two days. Ehime Prefecture is a place where cycling is popular, as you would expect.
First, we headed to "Kuzushi Torizu (Torizu Kamaboko Shop)." Next to the store, they were in the middle of making Jakoten. We were given a tour.
Yawatahama is one of the ports in Western Japan that boasts the largest catches of fish. Small fish caught here are ground into paste, including the bones, and then deep-fried to make Jakoten. Each store uses different fish as ingredients and different methods of preparation, and each store has its own fans. Torizu Kamabokoten makes about 2,000 Jakoten a day, and accepts orders from restaurants around the country and via the internet.
In addition to its signature product, Jakoten, Ehime Prefecture has a wide variety of other products such as kamaboko and chikuwa, and as we talked we came to understand the depth of the region's fish paste culture.

From Matsuyama City Station to Yawatahama. The bus was a limousine bus with spacious and comfortable seats. I rented a bicycle right in front of the bus stop.

The reception for the bicycle rental service "Mecenat Drive" is inside the Tanimoto Kamaboko store. Advance reservations can also be made online, and electric-assist bicycles are available.

The first place we visited was Kuzushi Torizu (Torizu Kamaboko Shop), located just a few minutes from the station.

We were shown the manufacturing process of Ehime's specialty, "Jakoten."

One of the distinctive features of Jakoten is its color. It is dark in color because it is ground with the bones still inside. Some have a simple texture that makes you feel the crunch of the bones, while others are firmly ground and have a smooth texture. Each store has a different method of preparation.

The fried fish are cooled and then sold. A lot of fresh fish is caught in Yawatahama. We purchase the fish while keeping an eye on the state of the sea, and then we paste it while it is still fresh and make Jakoten.

They are constantly conducting research, such as developing products that do not use preservatives to meet modern needs.

I had some piping hot freshly fried small sardines. They had a firm texture and a rich flavor, and the deliciousness of the fish came out right out of them. Thank you for the meal!
Cycled to the Honai area of Yawatahama. On the way, I bought some long-awaited mandarin oranges and salt bread from Pain Maison.
As I was passing through the shopping district, my eye was suddenly caught by a mountain of mandarin oranges. I bought some citrus fruits at the local greengrocer. "Setoka," also known as the "fatty tuna" of mandarin oranges, and "Kiyomi Tangor." Both were super cheap at 40 to 50 yen each! As expected of Ehime, they have the potential to be number one in terms of shipping volume.
"Pain Maison" is a bakery in Ehime Prefecture that first came up with the "salted bread" that has now become a staple in bakeries. They also have a store in Yawatahama, so stop by to buy their popular salted bread. Customers come in one after another, buying 20 or 30 pieces in total. When you bite into this salted bread, the butter oozes out. It's common to eat several pieces at once, and you'll find yourself reaching for one after the other.
From here, we drive along the coast to the town of Honai. I'm looking forward to discovering this new town.

Torizu-san chose the citrus fruits at a nearby greengrocer, as he wanted to buy authentic Ehime fruits while they were in season.

From the many varieties available, I chose "Setoka" and "Kiyomi."

I tried it at home! "Setoka" is also known as "Otoro of mandarin oranges." The white veins and skin are soft, juicy, sweet and incredibly delicious! It was a little past the season, so each one was only 50 yen.

Yawatahama has a long and large shopping street. It happened to be a regular holiday that day... There are apparently many famous "Yawatahama Chanpon" restaurants in the shopping street. It seems that many Ehime people think of Chanpon when they hear Yawatahama!

We left the shopping district on a rental bicycle and headed towards the sea. We thought we were heading to the port, but ended up heading towards the mountains. In Yawatahama, the green mountains meet the blue sea, creating a beautiful landscape. As far as the eye can see, the mountains are all covered with mandarin orange orchards!

This is what it looks like from a distance. The sea is beautiful and the greenery is deep, making for a soothing view.

Here we stopped by the bakery we were looking for, "Pan Maison Yawatahama Store." This is the store that started the "salt bread" boom. There is an eat-in space inside, but everyone buys salt bread with a tray full of it. Amazing!

Nowadays, "salted bread" is available in supermarkets. It is a type of butter roll, which is filled with plenty of butter and baked, so that the bread oozes butter even after it is baked. The surface is lightly sprinkled with salt, making it extremely simple and delicious.

Of course, there are many other kinds of breads available at this bakery. On this day, I brought home this slime. It's a tiny egg bread that fits in the palm of your hand.

We made our way around Yawatahama Port and headed towards the town of Honai. There was a long tunnel and a hill on the way, but other than that the road was mostly flat and the sea breeze was very pleasant.

I can see the sign for Honai Town. The road along the sea from here is also very pleasant. I will cycle around Honai Town.
The exhilarating feeling of cycling along the Mokkin Road! Walking around the town of Yawatahama Honai.
Honai Town is a port town that developed greatly during the Meiji period, with mining, spinning, sericulture, finance, etc. The Western-style buildings and factory sites built at that time are now famous historical sites that retain their charm.
Along the Miyauchi River that runs through the town is the "Mokkin Road," which makes a lovely rattling sound when you ride your bike along it. As you pass by here, the first thing that catches your eye is the former Toyobo red brick warehouse. Toyobo once boasted a vast site, but this warehouse is all that remains today, making it an important building in history.
You can also visit the Western-style house of Kazutaro Shiraishi, who built his prosperity through mining and spinning, and the residence of Sojuro Utsunomiya, which stands next to it. You can also see the town's shipping wholesaler, where the shipping industry was thriving, stone walls made of blue stone stacked in a unique way called "Yabanezumi," and "Sajima bricks," made from waste material removed from copper ore. The town itself is like a museum condensed with history and life.
The road from Yawatahama Station to Honai is mostly flat except for one place, making it a great course for cyclists to enjoy a leisurely bike ride.

We arrived in the town of Honai.

The Miyauchi River runs through the city, and across it lies the Minase Bridge. Beyond the bridge is the former Toyobo Red Brick Warehouse.

The riverbank is made of Iyo blue stone. The embankment, built with fletchings, can be seen from Mokkin Road. It's so beautiful, it looks like it was made of woven wool.

There are still many charming streetscapes remaining in the area.

The monument is made from the components of Wada Bridge, which collapsed in a typhoon in 1999. It was a rare concrete pillar made from bamboo instead of steel bars due to the shortage of steel during the war.
You can take a leisurely stroll through the historic streets.

The former residence of Kazutaro Shiraishi. This Western-style building was built by Kazutaro Shiraishi, who made his fortune managing a spinning mill and the Omine copper mine.

There are angels and a globe painted on the ceiling of the entrance hall. These are "trowel paintings" that plasterers use with a trowel. If you look closely, you can see the word "Japan" written in small kanji, so it's fun to find them!
Right next to the former Shiraishi Kazutaro residence is the former Utsunomiya Sojuro residence, which is characterized by its protruding roof.

Ryutanji, a Zen temple, is viewed from the outside.

Going further, we arrived at Uchinoura Public Hall. We were not able to enter the building, but it is a nationally registered tangible cultural property. It has intricate details and an atmosphere that is appealing to connoisseurs.

The Kikuchi residence, also known as the "Western Oyake," was a luxurious mansion with brick walls, though entry was not permitted.

Ehime Silkworm Seed Company. A three-story wooden building. Still in operation!

I called out to them and was allowed to go inside. Because it is a company that deals with living creatures, I had to get permission before entering the building. There are rows of window frames to improve ventilation. This is where they raise the silkworms.

I noticed that the stairs in the courtyard were also made of blue stone. In Ehime Prefecture, I saw a lot of blue stone on stone walls and gravel in towns.

The buildings are made fireproof by sandwiching bricks between them. I was able to see how the town was developed to properly preserve its history. It's a place where you can spend a quiet and peaceful time. I thoroughly enjoyed Yawatahama from morning to evening and returned to Matsuyama.
The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.