Departing with almost no prior knowledge -- to Yamaguchi Ube Airport --

I think that posters and monuments at airports have a big influence on people's subconscious. I realized this at Ube Airport in Yamaguchi. I flew to Ube from Haneda on JAL. I had almost no prior knowledge about the city of Ube, and all I remember from Yamaguchi was Akiyoshido Cave, which I visited on a family trip a long time ago, and Xavier Church, which I stopped by on the way back from a business trip. Both are far from Ube, so I had no idea what kind of tourist spots were being promoted at Ube Airport.

The plane bound for Ube was a Boeing 737-800. A pilot-like man waved from the window.

I found this fugu sculpture in the airport, which reminds me that fugu is a local specialty.
I decided on my exact destination after I arrived at the airport.
After a comfortable flight of just under two hours (I feel like my luck with planes has been improving lately), the first thing I saw at the airport was a miniature model of a five-story pagoda. I learned that there is a famous temple called Rurikoji in Yamaguchi City, and it immediately became one of my potential locations. What caught my eye even more were the wooden animal carvings (capybaras, gibbons, etc.). And the tiger pufferfish sculpture enshrined on the first floor of the airport was also fascinating. After all, three-dimensional objects have more impact than posters. They could give a little extra push to people who are unsure of where to go.
Let's enjoy fugu, a representative specialty of Yamaguchi Prefecture.
The first place we visited after arriving in Ube was "Nombei," a famous sushi and sashimi restaurant. It is a long-established restaurant famous for its wild puffer fish, and is visited by local dignitaries and politicians. Inside the restaurant, there is a fish tank where tiger puffer fish swim, and the private rooms on the second floor are luxurious spaces with mother-of-pearl tables and hanging scrolls. Thanks to the sincere service of the chef and the proprietress, we were able to enjoy high-class puffer fish dishes without feeling too nervous.

I don't have much experience with high-end cuisine, and it's been several years since I last had fugu. The high-end noren curtain gives off the impression that this restaurant has potential.
As I'm not used to eating fugu, I can't help but worry about it being poisonous...
"We have a proper license, so it's okay. I've tried the liver before, but it's not so tasty that I'd risk my life for it," says Chef Ebi-san calmly.
Yamaguchi is known as the center of fugu, so restaurants there take great care to ensure that no one loses their fugu to poisoning.

The counter seating on the first floor is also very relaxing. All the fish dishes other than fugu are also said to be fresh and delicious.
"Recently, there have been a lot of barges, so it's difficult to procure supplies, but this shop always makes sure to stock wild fugu. Even if we suddenly get a reservation for ten people, we can handle it."
The chef said that very coolly.
Beautifully presented fugu sashimi with a gorgeous sheen and transparency.
After a while, the fugu sashimi was brought to us. The white, shiny sashimi was beautiful. I casually picked one from the middle.
"You really know what you're talking about. If you cut it from the outside, the overall shape will be ruined, so it's more beautiful to cut it from the inside," said the chef. I'm glad that I passed the first test of the fugu certification exam without knowing it.

I immediately tried a bite. I usually only eat conveyor belt sushi, so the vibe was completely different.
Wild fugu sashimi is elegant, delicate, chewy, and has a special taste unlike any other fish. Did fugu develop poison to protect its delicious flesh?
"You get tired of fatty tuna after one or two bites, but you can eat fugu every day. It costs a bit of money though," says the chef. The flavor is mild but delicate, so you can eat as many slices as you like. Wild fugu also has a high water retention capacity. Fugu from the Seto Inland Sea is said to be particularly soft, sweet and delicious. Once you've tried fugu from Ube, you can't eat fugu from Uchimata. The skin is chewy and delicious. It has a hunch that it might be good for your beauty, so I started eating.
Learn about Putin and the money in coal mining while enjoying fugu chiri
Next, we had fugu chiri nabe, which was also incredibly chewy and had a different kind of deliciousness. The beautiful female hostess served us the food while giving us information about Ube.
"When Putin came to Yamaguchi two years ago, the security was incredible. Two Russian planes arrived at Ube Airport. One contained Putin's car and other things, and the other was Putin himself. He apparently brought his own personal cook with him."
President Putin, who is always on guard, only eats food cooked by his trusted personal chefs. I feel sorry for him, even though he is a super VIP, for not being able to eat such delicious tiger pufferfish in Ube. I wonder if he eats borsch when he goes abroad...
Yamaguchi has an image of producing many politicians and powerful people, but Ube is not like that. According to the chef, "This place used to be a coal mine, and the infrastructure was built with the money from the mine. Ube is a self-contained town." Rather than going to Yamaguchi for sightseeing, I wanted to know more about the area around Ube.
A trip to a place that inspires you, not a national treasure, the five-story pagoda
After the meal, we decided to head to Tokiwa Park's Zoo and Botanical Gardens, where the monkey sculptures that had caught our eye at the airport were also located. This "World Travel Botanical Garden" was apparently supervised by Seijun Nishihata, a famous plant hunter, so our expectations were high. The gardens were divided into the Tropical Asia Zone, Oceania Zone, Africa Zone, and Europe Zone. As soon as we entered, we saw a banyan tree that is said to have the power to increase our financial luck.

The vibrations are so intense I feel like meditating afterwards...
Being surrounded by plants is soothing, but I felt a special vibration in the South America zone, where a large number of giant cacti were planted. When I spoke up, an unfamiliar man smiled and said, "There are a lot of them, aren't there?" The space was filled with a mysterious vibration that made me feel like I could communicate with the cacti silently. It was as if the cacti were making me realize the meaning of being born on Earth... The vibrations of symbiosis, purification, and healing were swirling around, and it was a power spot that made me want to meditate there if I had the time. I also recommend this place to anyone who feels some kind of connection with Native Americans.

A space filled with cacti that seems to tune human brainwaves. Even if you can't make it to faraway Sedona, this botanical garden is just a short walk from the airport.

The cute round cactus is called "Kinshachi" (golden carp). I heard that the spines of the cactus have the power of purification.

Ube is known as a "city of greenery, flowers, and sculpture." Within the park is the "UBE Biennale Sculpture Hill," an Instagrammable spot with numerous sculptures lined up.

The apple piece, titled "After Apple," won the Citizens' Award (Greenery, Flowers and Sculpture Museum Award) voted for by visitors. Other wonderful pieces are lavishly displayed.
Now I understand why I was so drawn to the object I saw at the airport.
The zoo inside the park was also more fulfilling than I had imagined. The animals are in a "habitat exhibit" where they live in an environment close to their natural surroundings, so they were all very lively. First, as soon as I entered, my eye was caught by the sight of the white-handed gibbons jumping around among the trees. They were jumping from branch to branch as if they were dancing. Looking more closely, I could see that they had muscular bodies and were exuding monkey pheromones. It was also cute to see the small bonnet monkeys huddled together. The sight of two adult monkeys and a baby monkey together was something you would see on a New Year's card, but in reality they may not have been a family.

Capybaras have a surprisingly high-pitched cry, and their cute "qurrrr" cry is a bit unfair.
Even though it was almost closing time, a ruffed lemur came to my window. It was so fluffy that I felt the urge to pet it.
The white-handed gibbons flying around in the habitat exhibit are giving off pheromones...
The squirrel monkeys and meerkats have dark eyes and are consistently cute. The monkeys here are very friendly and have a great sense of service, so when you peek through the window of the hut, they come over to greet you. The ruffed lemurs and others came to say hello one after another to the window, holding out their hands and sticking out their tongues as if they were licking, and I felt like taking them home with me. When traveling, it's worth meeting not only people but also animals and plants.
You can also rediscover your childhood at the amusement park inside the park.

Take a ride called Pegasus Fantasy and enjoy a bird's-eye view of the illuminations.
This Instagram frame has a handmade feel. It was made from PET bottles. I was touched by the spirit of recycled art.

In the food section of the park, there was a shop that served Neapolitan pizza baked in an authentic stone oven. The browned texture was just right.
At night, the amusement park is illuminated with limited-time illuminations. A lot of people gathered for the event "TOKIWA Fantasia 2018". There were not only young people but also many seniors, and people of all ages and genders enjoyed the illuminations. I realized that Ube is a wonderful town where adults don't stay indoors even in the cold, and go out and enjoy themselves.

In the corner where illuminations were provided by each airline, there was also a cute object created by JAL.
Guided by fate, overwrite your memories at a deep power spot

Ube is a city of sculpture, and sculptures are displayed in various places around Ube-Shinkawa Station. In front of a wonderful piece called "Choukuukan," made of glass and stone, with flowing water.

The airport shops also sold Hagi ware, a major specialty of Yamaguchi Prefecture.

I bought "Eggs Found on the Moon" as a souvenir. Chestnuts are in the cream, giving it a fresh texture. The gentle flavor is soothing. A high-end version was also sold on the second floor of the airport. It had a richer flavor.
People often say that there is nothing near the airport, but that is probably because they have overlooked it. This time, we were able to enjoy the deep spots that even President Putin could not go to. And Xavier's distant memories were overwritten with pufferfish, cacti, and monkeys. Perhaps our fate was already decided when we were drawn to the monkey and pufferfish objects at the airport...
heavy drinker | ||
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web | : | http://www2s.biglobe.ne.jp/~non-bay/index.html |
address | : | 2-2-8 Shintencho, Ube City, Yamaguchi Prefecture |
phone | : | 0836-31-1390 |
Closed Day | : | Closed on Mondays |
Tokiwa Park | ||
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web | : | https://www.tokiwapark.jp/ |
address | : | 3-4-1 Norishige, Ube City, Yamaguchi Prefecture |
phone | : | 0836-54-0551 |
Eggs Found on the Moon | ||
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web | : | http://tsukitama.com/ |
price | : | 200 yen each (tax included) |
phone | : | 0820-22-0757 (果子乃季(あさひ製菓株式会社)) |
Namiko Shinsan
Manga artist and columnist. Born in Tokyo, raised in Saitama. Graduated from Musashino Art University Junior College, Department of Design, majoring in graphic design. Recent works include "Nururan" (Ohta Publishing), "Adult Communication Techniques" (Kobunsha Shinsho), "Osha Shugyo" (Futabasha), and "Tamashikatsu Dojo" (Gakken).
Twitter account: https://twitter.com/godblessnameko
Photography and composition: Korero
The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.