2019 Latest Edition: Taipei's Best Xiaolongbao Shops

For tourists from Japan, there are so many restaurants that it can be hard to decide where to go. For those people, I, Yuka Aoki, would like to introduce the "xiaolongbao restaurants you really should visit right now" in Taipei.

Enjoy the traditional Xiaolongbao dumplings made with the utmost care at the restaurant "Yeh Gongguan"

The first place we will introduce is Yeh Gongguan. This is a restaurant that serves Sichuan and Shanghai cuisine in a modern space. It is a stylish restaurant that adds exquisite arrangements to menus that can be found anywhere, and takes the time to recreate traditional dishes that are no longer made in China. When it opened in 2017, word spread among Taipei gourmets.

Owner chef Ye Wenlong calls Xiaolongbao the king of dim sum. Like the other dishes on the menu, Ye Gongguan's Xiaolongbao are made using traditional methods that are rarely replicated in modern times, and the amount and quality of oil used has been adjusted to suit today's health-conscious tastes.

"Xiaolongbao are easy to make, but if you put your heart and soul into them you can perfect them as much as you like. Of all steamed dishes, they are the most difficult," says Ye.

The skin of Ye Gongguan's Shanghai Xiaolongbao is neither too thin nor too thick, but just the right thickness. It doesn't tear easily, and has a texture that will impress Taiwanese people who love floury foods. The moisture content and elasticity are controlled by the degree of fermentation, and the meat filling is made from meat that is carefully processed and transported. By combining lean and fatty meat in the store, the meat filling and soup always have the same fat content, and by paying attention to every detail, they are able to create Xiaolongbao that are not too heavy and that you can eat as many as you want.

The recommended dish is the crab powder dumplings (Xie Feng Xiao Long Bao). It goes without saying that the crab flavor is strong, and you can really taste the texture of the crab meat. General crab dumplings use commercially available crab paste and actually contain no crab meat. It can be said that there are almost no restaurants that steam and shred the whole crab for the dumplings.

Despite the attention to detail, these xiaolongbao are still not well known even among Japanese xiaolongbao lovers. Yeh Gongguan is not a dim sum restaurant that sells xiaolongbao, and it takes a lot of work to make them, so they need a lot of manpower. They took them off the menu for a while because they couldn't serve anything half-baked. Another reason is that they only just started selling them again this spring.

Of course, the meat is wrapped only after the order is placed, and is not left to steam. The meat is not overcooked, and the meat filling inside the soup, wrapped in a special skin, is plump and full of soup. The softness of this meat filling and its harmony with the soup are something you can't find anywhere else, so this is a restaurant you should definitely try.

Taipei's No. 1 "thin skinned soupy" "Jinan Xian Tangbao"

Xiaolongbao, which Japanese people like, tend to be "thin skinned and soupy." Jinan Xian Tangbao, which was launched by two young brothers in 2008, serves xiaolongbao wrapped in skin so thin that the plentiful soup can be seen through. Shortly after opening, it was featured in Japanese travel magazines and online media, and Japanese tourists flocked to the restaurant. It then became even more famous in Taiwan, and although it is a local restaurant, it has become a place visited by many Taiwanese celebrities.

Jinan Xian Tangbao buys fresh ingredients at the market in the morning and makes the filling every day. They don't prepare the dumplings in advance, but wrap them only after they receive an order. The thin dumpling skins lose their elasticity and become easily torn if they are not steamed immediately after being wrapped. Most dumpling specialty stores prepare dumplings in advance during peak times. Customers are understanding and willing to wait because it is a small, homey store.

The ingredients used are black pork produced in Taiwan, and the loofah and shrimp xiaolongbao are made with loofah called jiaogua, which is produced on the remote island of Penghu in Taiwan.

Although the square melon is a little more expensive than the common loofah in Taiwan, its flesh is soft and smooth, and highly nutritious. The loofah and shrimp dumplings at Jinan Xian Tangbao are different from others in that they do not have the grassy smell of loofah.

Owner chef Zhuang is particular about the appearance of the xiaolongbao. He wants to serve something that will make customers scream when they see it. It's important that everything is consistent - the thinness of the dough, the fineness of the folds, the roundness, the shape and size, and even the way they're arranged in the steamer.

The surprise of the appearance doubles the deliciousness and makes you happy, right? In addition to the thin-skinned xiaolongbao, fried rice topped with a large amount of crispy fried whitebait (魩子魚餡萤: prahi chao fan) and pan-fried dumplings connected in one piece with crispy skin (zeapi jian guo tie: crispy skin fried pan paste) are also popular dishes that brighten up customers' faces the moment they are served. Be sure to try them while you wait for the "thin-skinned soup dumplings" that are said to be the best in Taipei.

A restaurant that the whole family will want to use: "Houka Shokan" - a long-loved restaurant among locals

Fangjia Xiaoguan is located in an area called Tianmu, a little outside of central Taipei. It may be an area that is not familiar to tourists, but it is a residential area with a slightly foreign atmosphere, with an American school and a Japanese school in the area, and many foreigners and people with connections to overseas countries living there. In this area, there is a shop that has been bustling with local families for nearly 40 years.

Facing the street, you can see the glass-enclosed kitchen where the dim sum is made. The tall bamboo steamers and the white steam rising from them make it clear how popular the dim sum at this restaurant is. The xiaolongbao are a little larger than average, and there are only six of them in one basket. They are large yet delicate, and the soup is plentiful, making for an irresistible feeling of satisfaction when you fill your mouth with them. The simple-textured skin is made without fermentation, using only flour and cold water.

Although the restaurant serves many different dishes, the recipe for the xiaolongbao dumplings has remained unchanged since it opened. The women who serve the food in the dining area and the chefs in the kitchen all have 20 to 30 years of experience. The local customers choose this restaurant as if it were a meal at home, with the absolute peace of mind that comes from knowing the food and the staff will remain the same.

The meat used for the filling of the xiaolongbao is black pork wentijiu. It is freshly cut, unrefrigerated or unfrozen pork, and because it is so fresh, you can taste the sweetness in the meat. The soup for the xiaolongbao is made by simmering pork bones and chicken for 12 hours, and is full of collagen. The soup is made from Lao Mo Ji, an old female chicken that is also used in medicinal foods and is highly nutritious, which gives it the best flavor. Even if you are not aware of the attention to detail that goes into the ingredients, one bite and you will understand why Tianmu customers continue to visit the restaurant.

The other menu items are also substantial, and you can enjoy solid Shanghai cuisine. There are also mini Xiaolongbao (Mini Xiaobao) with 20 small pieces in one basket, which is great for both children and the elderly to eat in one bite. The portions of each dish are too large for one or two people, so this is a restaurant where you should gather with four or more people and have a lively meal like the Taiwanese people.

Enjoy the ultimate freshly made meal even at night. "Zhenghao Fresh Meat Xiaolong Tangbao"

Taiwanese people eat Xiaolongbao in the middle of the night or early in the morning. These Xiaolongbao are more casual and snack-like than the ones you get at restaurants. You can also get these Xiaolongbao at breakfast places that serve soy milk. The skin is thick and the folds are not fine. They are Xiaolongbao for the common people, not striving for delicacy. They cost less than half the price of those at restaurants.

Zhenghao Fresh Meat Xiaolongbao (Zhenhao Xianrou Xiaolongbao) is located in a neighboring alley just off the main street of Tonghua Night Market, and is a local Xiaolongbao restaurant that has become known to Japanese tourists in recent years.

Although it is a casual xiaolongbao made at a food stall, it has many unique features and there is a line every day at mealtime. One of the features is green onions. Yilan Sanxing Green Onions
They use plenty of "Taiwan's best green onions." "Taiwan green onions" are piled high in the store. They look similar to Japanese scallions.

Instead of mixing the Sansei leeks into the meat filling, they place the leeks on top of the meat filling when wrapping it up. If they mix it into the meat filling, the leeks will release moisture and you won't be able to enjoy the texture of the leeks.

And here, you can eat freshly made dumplings in the shortest time possible than at any other restaurant. It's a small shop with a structure like a half-stall. Even the farthest seating can be served in less than 10 steps. Above all, nothing beats freshly steamed xiaolongbao. In a large restaurant, there is inevitably a loss of time before the food is brought to you. The xiaolongbao at Zhenghao Xianrou Xiaolong Tangbao can be enjoyed in their best condition, fully steamed. The skin is thick and small, and the soft meat filling contains plenty of meat juice. With one bite, the meat juice from the meat filling oozes into your mouth. The seasoning is strong and slightly sweet. There's no need to add vinegar and soy sauce.

Business hours are from 5pm to midnight, so if you miss out on eating Xiaolongbao, you can pop in even in the middle of the night. It's a very reasonable price of 100 yuan for 8 pieces, so it's a famous restaurant that you can use casually. (The menu only includes Xiaolongbao, hot and sour soup, and shumai.)

Xiaolongbao come in a variety of flavors, from street stalls to restaurants. If you've come all the way to Taiwan, it might be fun to try them all at different restaurants. Please enjoy the flavors endorsed by Aoki.

Yuka Aoki

Born in Kanagawa Prefecture in 1972. Currently living in Taiwan. Introduces Taiwan to Japan through her work as an essayist and coordinator. Her books published in Japan include "The Best Taiwan" and "Bringing Home the Good Things of Taiwan." Her book "Strange Taiwan," published by a Taiwanese publisher, became a bestseller. In 2013, she received the Taiwan Tourism Contribution Award. Owner of Taipei shop and gallery "You Good I Good." Serialized in the Hobonichi magazine "Taiwan's Windows."