Enjoy the traditions, history, and cuisine of the Kaga area on a 2-day, 1-night trip around Yamashiro Onsen Town and Tsurugi

Ai Nishimura

Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.

The head shrine of Hakusan faith, Hakusan Hime Shrine, and the large-sized pancakes at Omoteya on the main approach

The main attraction for strolling around Tsurugi is Hakusan Hime Shrine. It is the head shrine of the Hakusan faith, which has been worshipped across Ishikawa, Fukui, Gifu and other prefectures, and is affectionately called "Shirayama-san" by the locals.
The enshrined deity, Hakusan Hime no Okami (Kukurihime no Mikoto, Kukurihime), is thought to bring about all kinds of connections, as the word "kukuru" means to tie up. In addition to this benefit, the shrine offers a place where you can experience the sacred atmosphere of the main hall and worship hall, which were built to blend into nature, the stairs leading to the main approach, and the pure spring water. Visiting early in the morning is quiet with few people around. It is the perfect time to face nature, renew your heart, and convey your feelings of gratitude.

On the way to the shrine by rental bicycle from Tsurugi Station, you will see a charming old streetscape along the old road. You will soon pass the old station building, "Kaga Ichinomiya Station". As the station name suggests, Hakusan Hime Shrine is the Ichinomiya of Kaga Province. This station was used as a pilgrimage station, but since the line was abandoned, it is now used as a rest facility. I couldn't help but take a photo of the appearance of the shrine with its karahafu roof, which resembles a temple or shrine.

There are three paths to Hakusan Hime Shrine, but this time we will take the main path.
Passing through three torii gates and climbing a staircase lined with cedar trees, you can see the Biwa Waterfall flowing into the Tedori River. The tall trees block out all man-made sounds, and only the sound of your footsteps can be heard in the silence.
Once you pass through the third torii gate, you will see a magnificent shrine right in front of you. It is said to have been founded around 2,100 years ago during the reign of Emperor Sujin.
You can feel the power overflowing from everywhere, such as the Hakusan worship site, the purification shrine and purification ground.

After refreshing your mind at the shrine, head to Omoteya, a popular restaurant located next to the Omotesando parking lot.
Their specialty obanyaki is a hugely popular item, selling up to 2,000 pieces on a busy day.
The generous amount of bean paste that is wrapped in the bun is a special order item by a craftsman, and is not too heavy and has a smooth, tsubuan paste. It's amazing how even though it's big, it can be eaten in one go. Custard, matcha bean paste, and seasonal bean paste (chestnut bean paste on this day) are also popular.
Omoteya is the second branch of Yamaboushi in Hakusan City and is now in its third year.
This is a must-try Tsurugi gourmet dish.

Hakusan Hime Shrine

Hakusan Hime Shrine Omoteya

Delicate soba noodles made by hand at the famous Tsurugi restaurant "Soan" - duck soba

Up the hill from Tsurugi town, in a residential area at the foot of Shishiku Plateau, there is a soba restaurant called "Souan" in a renovated old house. Mr. and Mrs. Okabe opened the restaurant with the desire to make soba in a place with clean water. Now, their son Hirohide has taken over their skills and will, making soba and running the business, for over 20 years.

The neatly organized restaurant offers table seating, tatami rooms, and private rooms made using the storehouse.
"Since you've come all the way to a place like this," says the owner, the soba noodles, which are made with the utmost care, have garnered a good reputation, and the restaurant is often full as soon as it opens. In the restaurant, there are no magazines or other items because the owner wants customers to enjoy conversation. Instead, there are flowers that give a sense of the changing seasons, and at certain times of the year, a fire is lit in the fireplace, creating a calm atmosphere where time seems to have stopped.

They purchase whole-brown buckwheat and grind it in-house with a stone mill. The most popular menu item is the "Kamo-seiro" (duck soba). The dipping sauce is made with chopped duck meat, loin, and meatballs, and the dipping sauce brings out the umami of the duck. The fat of the duck meat and the fragrant roasted aroma are mixed into the crisp, thin-sliced soba noodles.
"Soba Sushi" is a dish that is not available on weekends, but only when the chef is available. It is made by marinating soba noodles in sushi vinegar and wrapping them in nori seaweed along with the toppings. You can enjoy the aroma and texture of soba noodles, and you can feel the beauty of the soba cutting technique when you see the cross section of the noodles.
If you come across it, it's a dish you'll definitely want to order.
They are particular about the tableware, and in addition to having custom-made items, they also use plates and bowls that they like from potteries all over Japan. The simple texture makes the delicate soba stand out even more, and it fits perfectly into the relaxing, comfortable space.

Other popular dishes include tempura, rolled omelet, and grilled duck loin.
This is a restaurant with such high satisfaction that it makes you forget about the crowds and waiting times.

Hermitage

Walking along the good old road

Tsurugi, which has a history of developing as a temple town, is home to streets lined with merchant houses with old signs and latticed doors.
First, we went to "Yokomachi Urarakan." This building was built in 1832, about 190 years ago. During the Edo period, it was a "kurayado" (storehouse) that managed rice tax for the Kaga domain, and storehouses were lined up throughout this area.
Today, the building is used as a facility that displays the original building to the public, and as a place where visitors can experience and experience exhibitions of cypress crafts and other crafts.
It has been developed as a rest area that anyone can use, so it's a great spot to stop by when you get tired after walking around Tsurugi town.

Kikuhime Sake Brewery is a sake brewery whose name comes from Kukurihime, the goddess enshrined at Hakusan Hime Shrine.
The shrine's deity, Kukurihime-no-Mikoto, is also known as the "god of matchmaking." If you visit this place, you'll want to buy some sake named after the deity "Shirayama-san" to take home with you.
Kikuhime Sake Brewery uses "Yamada Nishiki" from Hyogo Prefecture, which is considered the best rice for sake brewing in Japan, for all of its sake varieties. The sake brewed with the pure water of the Hakusan water system and high-quality rice is rich and full-bodied. It has a strong flavor with both sweetness and sourness, and is free of unpleasant flavors and has a strong umami taste.
The "Kikuhime" brand is carefully and diligently made with the cooperation of experienced sake masters (employees), toji brewers, and brewers. In the clean brewery, the brewing process is right in full swing. This sake, aged in the delicious, cool air of Tsurugi, is a sake that you can look forward to sipping while remembering "Shirayama-san."

Yokocho Urara Hall

Kikuhime Sake Brewery

Sweets and Coffee Souvenir: A sweets shop where time flows gently

The exterior is so unassuming that you might pass it by without noticing.
The interior of the shop has been renovated to a modern Japanese style, with minimal changes made to the old house's furnishings, and the delicious aroma of cookies and baked goods fills the air. The stylish shabby atmosphere, decorated with dried flowers, makes you want to spend some time relaxing.

Although they mainly sell baked goods, they also sell some fresh cakes, and since opening in September 2020, they are said to be popular with locals.
You can enjoy carefully selected hand-dripped coffee, and although there aren't many varieties, you can relax and enjoy a delicious cup of coffee. The popular muffins have been expanded and many people buy them to take home. The surface is crisp like a cookie, and the inside is fluffy and airy with a subtle sweetness.
These sweets bring out the deliciousness of the ingredients and have a delightful simple taste.
Why not buy one as a souvenir from your trip to Tsurugi?

Sweets and coffee souvenir