A trip to rediscover Hakodate with gourmet food, hot springs, and accommodations loved by locals

If you want to get to know the city of Hakodate, head to "Machiyado." Start your trip at a guesthouse that is suitable for families

SMALL TOWN HOSTEL Hakodate

Many people refer to guidebooks when planning a trip, but the best way to learn about a town that is constantly changing is to get in touch with "real-life information." That's where the "machiyado" (town accommodation) comes in handy.

"Machiyado" refers to lodging facilities that treat the entire town as an inn and aim to let guests enjoy the local daily life. They introduce local facilities such as local restaurants and public baths to tourists and propose the unique charms of the area throughout the town.

In the western district of Hakodate, there is a complex called Daisanzaka Building, which was renovated from a building constructed about 100 years ago. In one corner of the building is a town hostel called SMALL TOWN HOSTEL Hakodate.

SMALL TOWN HOSTEL Hakodate is classified as a guesthouse, but it also accepts families with small children. It has a set lights-out time and a relaxed atmosphere.

The building materials used are Dounan cedar flooring that makes you want to walk barefoot, and plaster mixed with Hokkaido scallops, and many local volunteers participated in the renovation work. Events that are open to non-guests are regularly held, making the inn a popular place for locals as well as travelers.

At SMALL TOWN HOSTEL Hakodate, they can introduce you to recommended spots in the western area according to the hobbies and tastes of travelers. Many of the staff are involved in activities aimed at preserving and revitalizing the townscape, so you can get deep information about Hakodate that you can only get here.

There is a fish shop nearby that stocks seafood from Hakodate, and you can add fresh sashimi to the breakfast made with ingredients from southern Hokkaido that is served at the inn! Beyond its role as a lodging facility, the inn will also act as a guide for the city, and will assist you in local travel experiences that are not listed in guidebooks.

A natural yeast bakery renovated from a traditional Hakodate building

Tombolo, natural yeast bread

If you want to start your morning off at a leisurely pace while traveling, why not stop by "tombolo," a natural yeast bread shop located close to SMALL TOWN HOSTEL Hakodate? This popular shop sells simple yet flavorful bread made only with homemade natural yeast, Hokkaido wheat, salt, and Hakodate water, and is popular with locals as well as fans who travel from far away to visit.

Halfway up the historic cobblestone slope, the eye-catching yellow shop is a renovated Japanese-Western style building built in 1921. The building is designated as a traditional building by Hakodate City and is still in active use as a store.

Owner Atsushi Osaka trained at Levain in Tokyo, a pioneer of natural yeast bread in Japan, before returning to his hometown of Hakodate and opening Tombolo in 2010. He is committed to "making simple bread" and continues to bake simple yet delicious bread that will enrich your daily meals.

My personal recommendation is the "Fig and Walnut Bread." The natural sweetness of the figs, the crunchy texture of the walnuts, and the taste of the wheat that gets more flavorful the more you chew it all combine together in this bread, reminding you of the joy of eating.

It's more filling than it looks, so it's perfect for a late breakfast. You can also enjoy delicious coffee with your bread inside the shop.

The Catholic Motomachi Church and the Orthodox Church, which are often featured on Hakodate tourist posters, are just a few minutes walk from the shop. On a nice day, you can take a stroll and visit the historical churches.

Enjoy stone oven pizza at a traditional cafe in Hakodate

Transistor CAFE

In addition to the historical churches, the western district has many attractions within walking distance, such as the Former Hakodate Public Hall, popular for its unique color scheme, and Hachimanzaka, which offers a long slope with a view of the sea at the bottom.

There are many ups and downs in the road, so if you get tired of walking, take a break at a cafe. The western area is dotted with cozy cafes that have been renovated from old buildings into relaxing spaces.

A great place to visit for lunch is "Transistor CAFE," famous for its pizza baked in a brick oven inside the cafe. The owner, who moved here from Tokyo, was in charge of everything from renovating the building to creating the menu, and with the help of local businesses and volunteers, he managed to open this unique DIY cafe in just four months.

The owner, Nobuhiro Yamada, was previously the manager of a famous restaurant in Tokyo, so the food is guaranteed to be delicious. The parfaits, which use plenty of seasonal fruits, and the home-roasted coffee are also very popular.

It's not uncommon for the restaurant to be fully booked on weekends, but if you have time, it would be interesting to talk to Yamada about the circumstances of his move and stories about Hakodate. You'll be able to get a glimpse of a unique side of Hakodate that only someone from outside can find. The restaurant is based on a building built in the early Showa period, but the renovated building has retained usable parts such as the beams and windows, making the atmospheric interior worth a visit.

Speaking of Hakodate, this is the place to be. A panoramic view of the city from Mount Hakodate

Mount Hakodate

Transistor CAFE is also close to the Mount Hakodate ropeway station, so once you've filled your stomach and soothed your fatigue, we recommend climbing to the top of the mountain. The splendor of the night view from Mount Hakodate, which has been awarded the highest rating of three stars in the Michelin Guide, is widely known, but during the day, you can clearly see the churches in the western district, the Red Brick Warehouse in the bay area, and even Goryokaku Tower, creating a different kind of beauty. Climbing to the top in the evening and watching the city gradually come on is also a very elegant and luxurious way to spend your time.