This time, we will be visiting "Kameya Mannen-kaku" in the ancient Onogawa Onsen hot springs in Yonezawa, Yamagata Prefecture, which is said to have been discovered about 1,200 years ago. We went to meet the three beckoning cats of the inn: Fuku-san, 11 years old, Nana-chan, 3 years old, and Hachi-kun. Please take your time to enjoy this article, which will guide you through your travels with the cats.
This time's traveller: Sakura Ishihara
A cat photographer and pet caretaker, he regularly writes photo series for magazines and holds photography classes. He strives to take photos that put cats first, making use of his knowledge and experience as a Devon Rex cat breeder and cat cafe manager. His life's work is to propose a better way for cats and people to live together, through connections with cat lovers around the world.
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Upon arriving at Kameya Mannen-kaku in Onogawa Onsen, the cats immediately welcome the traveler.
Onogawa Onsen is a hot spring town located near Yonezawa in Yamagata Prefecture.
Hearing that there are some popular mascot cats there, one summer day I head north alone to visit the cats.
When we arrived at Onogawa Onsen, we found a row of hot spring inns and public baths, and the faint, pleasant smell of sulfur drifting through the town. This was a hot spring town with a traditional atmosphere.
Judging from the scent, this must be the type of water I like, I thought to myself as I headed towards the hot springs, and arrived at my destination, Kameya Mannenkaku.
Although the building is historic, having been in business for 120 years, it still has a certain elegance to it.
A cat can be seen through the window bars.
Which one are you?
As soon as we arrived, we were greeted by a fluffy 3-year-old girl named Nana.
It seems to be Nana's daily routine to look outside from this window.
Nana: "Welcome, today's guest."
According to the young female proprietress of Kameya Mannengaku, Nana-chan has a big sister-like personality and is very caring, and she patiently plays along with the proprietress's children when they play.
There were several children among the guests staying at the hotel, but they just stood there, seemingly unfazed.
Hachi: "Welcome. I'm about to head out too, but I'm still a bit sleepy."
After putting my luggage down in the room and going out into the hallway, I saw Hachi-kun, a brown tabby boy.
Nana-chan and Hachi-kun, sister and brother, were welcomed into the inn as cats. Hachi-kun is also 3 years old and one of the young cats at the inn.
We waited in the lobby with its pleasant atrium. Nana: "I wonder what kind of people are coming in today."
Nana: "Come on, come on, Hachi-kun, wake up."
After dinner, he always makes the rounds to greet his guests.
After checking in, you can stroll around the area, play with the cats, and enjoy the hot springs. As you spend your time however you like, you will be enveloped in the leisurely flow of time.
As the sun sets at Onogawa Onsen at dinnertime, the cats each go to their favorite spots and spend the time as they please, showing no interest in human food.
I was really impressed with how they knew the inn's rules so well.
Even though the sun has set, Hachi-kun still doesn't seem to have woken up and continues to sleep in cute poses.
Hachi: "You should sleep quietly during meal times... ZZZ"
Hachi: "I'll be up soon"
When he senses that dinner is about to end, Hachi-kun finally wakes up and goes around to greet the guests. He really knows when it's his turn.
Hachi: "Our food was delicious, wasn't it?"
As dinner was finishing, Fukusan appeared.
The interior is full of charm, with pillars and furniture that have stood the test of time. Fuku: "Welcome, please take your time."
With that in mind, I opened the door myself and headed to the entrance.
Fuku: "Sorry, I have something to take care of."
With her beautiful green eyes and fluffy fur, she exudes the air of a cat hostess.
Fuku-san is now 11 years old, and it seems that her routine is to patrol the area around the inn in the mornings and evenings.
Although he can open the door himself, Fukusan's style is to wait for the door to open first. Fuku: "Could someone please open the door now?"
At Kameya Mannenkaku, cats have been living with the inn for generations, since the young female proprietress was a child, and with the inn having been founded 120 years ago, it's possible that cats have been living in Onogawa Onsen like this since ancient times.
The night quietly deepens as I ponder upon how wonderful it is that the lives of cats and people continue to exist to this day.
Fuku: "Oh well, I guess I'll just open it myself."
Hats off to the hospitality of these three cats, who wait until guests arrive at check-out time
After playing with the cats, I took a bath in the hot spring, which was gentle but left my skin feeling smooth, before returning to my room. In the midst of this blissful time, I fell asleep and woke up to find it was already morning.
Breakfast begins at 8 a.m. As with dinner, the cats seem to spend their mealtimes in their own favorite spots.
Kameya Mannenkaku's menu features local ingredients
For dinner and breakfast last night, we had a wide selection of delicious local ingredients, including "Tsuyahime" rice from Yamagata. Everything was delicious, including the dishes made with fresh vegetables grown by the young female proprietress herself, and I ate a lot. The Yonezawa beef sukiyaki and salt-grilled trout for dinner were also excellent. Isn't Yamagata's specialty food just a parade of delicious things? I was secretly excited as I spent my meal.
Grilled salmon with glittering rock salt
As breakfast was coming to an end, the cats began to gather excitedly at the front door.
The cat proprietress, Fuku-san, lies down at the front desk, carefully grooming herself.
Fuku: "You seemed to sleep well last night."
Fuku: "I wash my face thoroughly in the morning."
Fuku: "First, look outside from here."
Hachi: "Good morning. Did you enjoy the hot spring?"
Hachi: "The waters of Onogawa Onsen have long been known as 'beauty baths' (ahem)."
Hachi: "Good morning, landlady." Fuku: "How long are you going to sleep? I think it's a little late."
Hachi: "Seeing people off is my job (confident)."
Hachi: "Waaaah, actually I'm still sleepy."
To my surprise, the cats were waiting to see the guests off when it was time to check out. I was really impressed by the cats' hospitality.
Many guests come every year looking forward to meeting the cats. During my stay, I met a cat-loving family who come to stay every summer vacation.
It's no wonder people are captivated by such hospitality from the "cat landlady" Fukusan, the "young cat landlady" Nana-chan, and the "young cat master" Hachi-kun.
Hachi Fuku: "Standby, OK!"
Hachi: "Please come again. I'll do it when I have time."
After checking out, you can enjoy a stroll around Onogawa Onsen, guided by the cats.
After seeing off all the guests, it's probably time for the cats to have some time off.
While on patrol, Fuku-san took a nap in his favorite cool spot.
Fuku: "Well then, I'm going to take a little break."
Fuku: "This is my favorite place lately."
Hachi-kun, who had overslept, transformed into a reliable young master after his job of seeing off the guests and guided me around, inviting me to come over here.
Today, Hachi-kun is a handsome young man, a stark contrast to the sleepy boy he was yesterday. He rubs against me so many times that I can't help but feel excited.
Hachi: "Follow me, come here!"
A photo at the "Yakushi Nyorai Sondo" (Healing Buddha Hall). Hachi says, "You should also visit here. There are lots of cicadas here."
Hachi-kun took me to the Yakushi Nyorai Sondo Hall, which is just a stone's throw away from Kameya Mannengaku.
This shrine has a legend that Ono no Komachi, the inspiration behind the name Onogawa Onsen, enshrined a statue of Yakushi Nyorai, the god of hot springs.
Following Hachi-kun's invitation, I also visited the shrine, expressed my gratitude for the trip, and then reluctantly left Kameya Mannengaku.
Kameya Mannenkaku in Onogawa Onsen is a hotel that offers everything for cat lovers.
There seems to be something to enjoy in each season, and it is a wonderful place that makes me genuinely want to return to see the cats in different seasons.
Onogawa Onsen has many things to enjoy, such as the hot spring town, rice field art, and the firefly festival. The cats at Kameya Mannen-kaku may be like guardians for travelers who visit this place. Nana: "We look forward to seeing you again."
Kameya Mannenkaku
| address | ： | 2481 Onogawacho, Yonezawa City, Yamagata Prefecture |
|---|---|---|
| access | ： | From Yamagata Airport, take the limousine bus Yamagata Airport Line to Yamagata Station (approx. 35 minutes) → From Yamagata Station, take the Shinkansen to Yonezawa Station (approx. 36 minutes) → From Yonezawa Station, take the bus to Onogawa Onsen (approx. 24 minutes) → Walk to Kameya Mannen-kaku (approx. 2 minutes) |
| phone | ： | 0238-32-2011 |
| web | ： | http://www.kameya-m.jp/ |
Cats featured in this article
Introducing the cats that guard Kameya Mannengaku.
・Fuku (11 years old)
It is characterized by its fluffy fur.
・Nana (3 years old)
Siblings born in 2019. Caring and kind girls.
・Hachi (3 years old)
They are brother and sister born in 2019. They are boys with a careless and cheerful personality.
In addition to these three, the dignified leopard-like Rin (who passed away at the age of 11) was also loved here for many years.
Kameya Mannenkaku has many regulars who look forward to meeting the cats every year. A place where cats can relax and live freely is surely a comfortable place for humans as well. If you're a cat lover, or if you've been feeling a bit more relaxed lately, why not visit Kameya Mannenkaku? Interacting with the cats at Kameya Mannenkaku, who have an outstanding hospitality spirit, and soaking in the hot waters of Onogawa Onsen will surely turn your usual hot spring trip into an even more relaxing and memorable experience.
Domestic Discount Fares Skymate
Limited to ages 12 and over and under 25!
Extremely affordable discount fares available for booking from the day of departure (4 hours before departure)
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The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.
