Sendai's Tansu cuisine and Kyoto's Fucha cuisine. A gourmet journey through the hospitality cuisine of the East and West

The true joy of hospitality cuisine, which is passed down in various regions, is in the way that it is prepared deliciously with ingenuity and a particular cooking method. Originally, it was only available at special banquets such as celebratory occasions, but in recent years, it is not rare to see it offered to tourists.

Among the hospitality dishes that allow you to fully enjoy the local food culture, we will introduce two different styles from the east and west.

A mansion with ties to the Date clan has been transformed into a popular restaurant

The first place we visited was Sendai. A small Sendai chest finished with traditional Kijiro lacquer is filled with elaborate banquet meals for each season, known as "Tansu cuisine." Sendai is the territory of the Date clan. This surprising hospitality cuisine can only be found in the hometown of Date Masamune, who is said to have preferred bright and cheerful styles.

You can enjoy Tansu cuisine at the "Former Date Count's Residence Shokeikaku." This is the place where the 15th head of the Date clan bought a mansion from his vassals after the Meiji Restoration, renovated it, and moved in to live as his own home. All the timber is straight-grained Akita cedar. It is a luxurious structure that is rarely seen these days.

The house strongly reflects the family tradition of always being prepared for battle, and you can feel the dignity everywhere. The building is open to the public free of charge to prevent it from fading as a cultural asset, and you can visit it any time, but Zhong Jing Pavilion is also famous as a restaurant.

"It was originally located in a place visible from Sendai Castle, but the Date clan wanted to use it as a place of education, so it was used as a school facility. About 40 years ago, an earthquake occurred off the coast of Miyagi Prefecture, and it could no longer be used as a school facility, so it was donated to the prefecture. It was then moved to this location and is now used as a restaurant."

This is what Ukitsu Shuitsu told us. There are several courses available that serve Tansu cuisine, but we chose the "Tansu Mini Zen" (5,500 yen), which is relatively easy to finish, and enjoyed it in the living room, which was used as the master's room.

Inside the heavy chest of drawers are glittering dishes.

A heavy chest of drawers was brought in. Opening it and pulling out the drawers revealed a stunning array of beautiful dishes. A visual treat.

(Left) The top shelf of the chest of drawers contains simmered kelp and spiny lobster dumplings, (right) the middle shelf contains small dishes that evoke the feeling of home. The zunda mochi has a soft texture and the beans have a strong presence. And the whelks simmered in a sweet and spicy sauce have a fun crunch.

(Left) The bottom tier is beautifully presented with appetizers. Beef tongue miso, simmered scallops, and salmon wrapped in a snake basket are refreshingly sour, while the squid and carrot castella cake are perfect for palate cleansers. (Right) Upon opening the door, the appetizer is salmon sushi marinated in koji. Its sticky flavor will make you crave sake.

Many more hospitality dishes to come

The menu is not limited to what is in the chest of drawers. (Left) The fried food is a tempura platter. The fried flounder with sea urchin is crispy yet full of flavor. Seasonal supporting ingredients such as zucchini and green beans add a touch of elegance to the dish. (Bottom right) Seasonal sashimi with stewed vegetables. (Top right) And the grilled dish is Spanish mackerel baked on a magnolia leaf. This dish has a rich sesame flavor.

The best part is the rice, topped with plump eel and fragrant vegetables. The final dish is miso soup with wheat gluten and raw seaweed, and there is also a dessert. By the time you finish off with the pear jelly, you will be completely full.

"Originally it was a full-scale banquet, but we made it 5,500 yen so that people could enjoy it more casually, and it became very popular, and we started seeing customers from overseas. We serve different dishes every month according to the season. We have customers who come every month," says Ukitsu. Why not enjoy a gorgeous Tohoku banquet prepared by the head chef from Ishinomaki?

Former Residence of Count Date Shokeikaku

Among Buddhist vegetarian dishes, there is Fucha cuisine, which has its roots in China.

If we consider Tansu cuisine, which can be traced back to the Date clan, to be a form of military hospitality, then Buddhist hospitality is a completely different matter, and is quite fascinating. Looking west, there are many types of hospitality cuisine in the ancient capital of Kyoto. Among them, the Obaku sect's head temple Manpukuji has a vegetarian cuisine known as "fucha cuisine."

Founded in 1661 by the Chinese Zen monk Ingen Zenji, the temple incorporates many elements of the Chinese Ming Dynasty style. You'll feel as if your back is being straightened by the stately presence that sets it apart from Japanese Zen temples.

It is said that the meaning of fucha cuisine, introduced by Zen Master Ingen, is "to share tea with the masses." In traditional Japanese dining etiquette, individual plates are prepared for each person starting from the seat of honor, but in fucha cuisine, there is no distinction between senior and senior at the table, and the etiquette is to "gather round" around the food in a harmonious atmosphere.

In other words, the standard is a large plate, and this is a standard serving for four people. Currently, the recommended dish is the "Special Fuchazen 'Aoi'" (8,888 yen), which is individually served in consideration of the COVID-19 pandemic.

A lively arrangement of fucha cuisine that's easy to eat

"Mafu" is a standard vegetarian dish that can be said to be the origin of sesame tofu. The taste and aroma of sesame spreads throughout your mouth.

"Yuji" is used to season the ingredients and the batter, and is actually the origin of fried chicken. It is said that it was loved by monks as a nutritious dish that uses a lot of oil. It has a fun crispy texture and is a dish that can be enjoyed by people of all ages. Also, when it comes to fucha cuisine, "modoki" is famous. Some dishes do not use any meat at all and are made to look like grilled eel or kamaboko, which will surprise you with a fresh taste.

By the way, the first drink is free. You can also choose "Tamausagi," a high-quality bottled gyokuro tea that is used by Japanese restaurants.

The "Shojin Temari Sushi" is a visual delight. It is a vibrant, bite-sized sushi dish made with colorful pickles that change with the season. Shojin ryori may give the impression of simple, flavorful cuisine, but the fucha cuisine that was introduced from China is colorful and full of ups and downs, and was full of fresh surprises.

After the meal, we visited the temple with the monks.

By the way, you can also visit the temple before the meal. If you order the "Special Fuchazen Aoi" (a set menu of 200 yen and 250 yen for lunch), a monk will guide you around the temple halls for about 30 minutes to an hour.

"We want you to experience Zen through food, so we are hosting special tours by the high priests of the Obaku Sect Head Temple. We will continue to make every effort to ensure that your experience at Manpuku-ji is a memorable one. Please come and spend a relaxing half day, or a full day, at Manpuku-ji Temple in Uji, Kyoto."

"The vibrant and powerful vegetarian cuisine served in the tranquil temple and the hospitality that touches on Zen culture will surely enrich your trip," said Masaaki Araki, head of the sect's administrative department.

Manpukuji Temple, the head temple of the Obaku sect

Food changes depending on the place. Hospitality cuisine from all over the country

As cultures change, so do foods. As places change, so does hospitality. In other words, every corner of the country has its own type of hospitality cuisine, and the essence of hospitality is in the thoughtfulness of the people.

You can feel the warm hospitality in the delicious food that is served to you with the utmost skill, using local ingredients and the culture that is rooted in the land. In addition to tansu cuisine and fucha cuisine, the hospitality cuisine found in each region will surely add a touch of elegance to your trip.