Deep Nagasaki you don't know about - A trip to Goto and Fukue Islands tracing history and culture

Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.

A trip to Fukue Island's geological heritage - a unique way to enjoy a tourist destination

About 20 million years ago, the Japanese archipelago was formed as part of the Eurasian continent was torn off due to crustal movement, seawater entered, and the archipelago gradually took on its present shape. At that time, the Goto Islands were the last part connected to the continent.
Driving around Goto Islands, you can see interesting coastlines and topography. Even popular tourist spots can be viewed from a geological perspective, allowing you to make new discoveries and see things differently than others, and you can enjoy a magnificent journey that makes you feel the passage of time.

The geology that forms the present Goto Islands, known as the "Goto Group," is originally composed of sand and mud from the Eurasian continent, and is characterized by its whitish, striped appearance. One of the most representative sights, the Osezaki Lighthouse, can be clearly seen from four observation decks. The chalk-white lighthouse, built on a steep cliff, is also elegant and well worth seeing.
On the other hand, volcanic eruptions have occurred on the island since then, causing volcanic ash and lava to flow out in some places, which can be seen as rugged black rocks along the coastline. In particular, at the Abunze Lava Coast, you can see the landscape created by the lava flows from the volcanic eruption of Onidake from an observation deck. The coastline is reminiscent of the exotic Hawaii, and the contrast between the blue ocean and the powerful black lava is full of the power of nature.

The sea and mountains that we enjoy today as tourist destinations on Fukue Island have been built up over a long period of time. The area, including Fukue Island, which we visited this time, Hisakajima, Narujima, and others, was certified as the Goto Islands (Shimogoto Area) Geopark in 2022, and the unique geology and topography are being protected in various ways, with efforts continuing to preserve them for the future.
When touring the famous sightseeing spots of Goto, if you take a moment to consider the geological and cultural aspects, you can enjoy your trip to the island more deeply. The photos introduce the beautiful nature of Goto, including "Onidake" formed by a volcanic eruption, the popular beach "Takahama Beach," the beautiful sunset over the horizon, and the starry sky.

Onidake

Osezaki Lighthouse

Takahama Beach

Orange Road (Sunset Road)

Fuchinomoto Catholic Gravestones

Japan's newest sea castle, Fukue Castle, and a tour of the Cathedral

Fukue Castle (Ishida Castle) was completed in 1863 (Bunkyu 3), just five years before the start of the Meiji era. It was demolished after only nine years of use due to the Meiji era's castle abolition order. However, the remains of the castle, including its magnificent stone walls, stone gate, and kick-out gate, remain, and in one corner is the Goto Family Garden, which was the retirement home of the 30th Goto family head, Lord Morinari. Near the port of Fukue, you can also see the breakwater and lighthouse "Jotohana", built by the feudal lord.

The first lord of the Goto Domain, Goto Sumiharu, was a Christian feudal lord who initially protected the Christians of Goto, but later, due to domestic circumstances such as Toyotomi Hideyoshi's expulsion of Christians and Tokugawa Ieyasu's oppression of Christians, the Goto Domain, like other domains, began to persecute Christians. After the ban on Christianity was imposed, it is said that the Christians of Goto were almost extinct by the middle of the 18th century.

There are currently about 50 churches in the Goto Islands, where Christian teachings are widely rooted, 20 of which are in Goto City. If you check their locations on a map, you will see that there are fewer in the center, where the Goto Domain was located, and they are lined up along the coast, as if surrounding the island.
This shows the history of the ancestors of the current Goto Catholics, who had to settle in inconvenient places such as on the coast or on mountain slopes when they migrated from Sotome at the end of the 19th century. It is proof that they made small living in difficult places, built settlements, and protected and passed on Christianity.

A popular tour of Goto's churches is not only a great way to see the elegant church architecture, with its Japanese-Western eclecticism and retro stained glass, but also the historical sites that tell the story of the oppression. The trials and historical facts of the Christians are engraved on the bronze statues, reliefs, and remains of the prison cells where they were captured. If you can sincerely face these and feel the stories of the chaotic times, the history of tragedy, and the free world and the hearts of the liberated people that followed, you will be able to spend a solemn time with a sacred heart.

Fukue Castle (Ishida Castle)

*Renovation period for the Kide Gate and stone wall: The left side of the gate will be repaired until the end of February 2024, and the intersection side (right) will be repaired until November. The main gate will be repaired until October 13th.

Goto Family Garden

Always a Nose

Dozaki Church

Mizunoura Church

Imochiura Church Lourdes

*Photography is prohibited inside all churches.

In search of camellias to enjoy outside of the flowering season on Goto, Japan's No. 1 camellia island

The Goto Islands are home to 10 million camellia trees, the most in Japan.
Camellias, native to Japan, have been loved since ancient times, and because of their old-fashioned appearance, they are also used as the seasonal word for spring in tea ceremonies and waka poetry. It is said that there is nothing to throw away from camellias, and in addition to admiring the flowers, their seeds are used to make oil, their leaves to make tea, and their trunks to make combs.
In early spring, they produce dignified flowers, and in summer, their fruits turn red and eventually burst open, dropping their seeds to the ground... Camellias nourish the island's life and us as we transition with the seasons, and are truly one of the most representative sights of Goto.

This is what camellias look like on Fukue Island. There are spots where you can enjoy them even outside of the flowering season.
We visited Tsubakino, a camellia oil specialty store, where you can experience extracting oil.
You will receive careful instruction from the process of removing the contents from the seeds one by one to the process of squeezing the camellias with firm pressure. You will also hear an explanation of the camellia itself and the historical background of the relationship between Goto and camellias, and you can take home freshly squeezed camellia oil as a souvenir. There are also courses for making lip balms and bath bombs.
There is also a shop on-site where you can purchase skin care, hair care and other care products that use camellia oil.

Another place we stopped at was the Goto Tsubaki Distillery in the Handomari area.
This distillery produces and sells the craft gin "GOTOJIN," which uses 17 types of botanicals.
Each botanical is extracted one by one in a distiller, then blended to bring out its unique character. Goto's camellia is used in all of the gins as the key botanical that beautifully brings together the intertwining flavors. Infused with the island's aroma and bounty, the gin is bottled in glass bottles that reflect the delicate expression of camellia petals, and shipped from the island to the world. In addition to production, the distillery also sells the gin.
Although it is sold as a subscription course online, the gin with seasonal flavours is produced in small batches and is said to sell out in a flash due to its popularity.
The distillery itself has a natural atmosphere full of craftsmanship, the blue sea is right in front of you, and next door is the Catholic Hantomari Church, a work of art reminiscent of famous architecture, making it a recommended spot for those who want to spend some time on the island at a leisurely pace.

It's easy to see how much camellia flowers are loved on the island. They are used as various motifs all over the island. It's fun to search for camellia motifs like a treasure hunt, and every time you find one, you can't help but take a picture... a camellia-hunting trip like that is also fun.

Tsubakino

Goto Tsubaki Distillery

Hopping around Goto in search of cute spots

There is still much to be discovered about Goto, but I'd like to end by introducing some of the cute things I collected during my trip.
Goto City's mascot, "Tsubaki Neko," is available in many different goods for sale. It is used as an object or motif in places around town, and you can see it with a camellia flower on its head.
Baked goods such as "Tsubaki Neko" from "Okashitsukasa Hatanaka" and "Baramon-chan", a traditional kite motif, are also available for purchase individually. They would make a great snack to have while touring the islands.

Goto Cafe is popular for its pancakes served on handmade camellia plates.
The pancakes, topped with plenty of Gotoimo sweet potatoes, which are grown and shipped entirely on the island and aged for about 40 days, are a gorgeous dish. There is also a souvenir shop, making it the perfect place to take a break or stop by.
There will also be a photo spot where you can take a photo of Tsubaki Neko and the sweet potato soft serve ice cream!

"NEW Pandora," located on the way to Osezaki Lighthouse, is a restaurant popular among islanders.
The food ranges from local lunches such as fresh sashimi from the island and Goto udon noodles to set meal restaurant menus such as hamburgers and fried foods. In the parking lot here, there is a Tsubaki Neko (a camellia cat) that uses a sea float, and a heart-shaped photo spot set up in front of the blue waters of Imochiura. You can attach a heart-shaped padlock, which is sold in the store, to the monument, so why not take one as a memento of your trip?

Enjoy some tasty juice on your drive. At Yamauchi Cafe in the Yamauchi district, the center of the island, you can drink smoothies made with locally grown fruits (Yamauchi melon and strawberry on this day). Enjoy a refreshing time with a cold drink on the terrace with a resort feel.

There are so many tourist spots on Fukue Island in the Goto Islands that we still can't introduce them all. This island is recommended for both those who prefer a quiet and chill island trip and those who want to take a greedy trip that visits various spots.

Confectionery shop Hatanaka

Goto Cafe (Goto Souvenir & Cafe)

New Pandora

Yamauchi Cafe (Yamaguchi Shoten)