A Buddhist monk and manga artist's guide to autumn in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto: autumn leaves and Buddhist prayers

Jodo sect head temple Kurodani Konkai-Komyoji: Still a little-known gem. A temple whose gate is decorated with beautiful autumn leaves

It is a 10-minute walk from the "Okazakimichi" bus stop, about 30 minutes by city bus from JR Kyoto Station. In recent years, Konkai-Komyoji Temple has begun to be featured in the media as a spot to see autumn leaves, but compared to the standard famous spots such as Arashiyama and Kiyomizu-dera, it is still a hidden gem. In autumn, the area around the mountain gate is beautifully decorated with autumn leaves, and there are many places to see autumn leaves scattered throughout the temple grounds, including the garden at the back, "Shiun no Niwa."

Mitsuzawa: Konkai-Komyoji Temple is said to be the place where Honen Shonin first built a hermitage (temporary residence) after descending from Mount Hiei, the head temple of the Tendai sect. Honen Shonin is revered as the founder of the Jodo sect of Buddhism, and lived from the end of the Heian period to the Kamakura period.

In fact, Mount Hiei was secularized during the Kamakura period. Even though strict precepts were established on the surface, the monks lived lives that were entwined with the secular world. When Honen Shonin learned of this reality and felt a gap between his ideals and reality, he left Mount Hiei. From the perspective of Mount Hiei, he was an outcast.

Mitsuzawa: After coming down from the mountain, Honen preached to the people here, a novel teaching for the time: that as long as one simply chants the Nembutsu, "Namu Amida Butsu," anyone could attain equal salvation. In those days, Buddhism was still far removed from the common people, who could not read or write. The idea that one could be saved by chanting the Nembutsu alone was a groundbreaking event for the common people. People soon gathered to hear Honen's teachings, and it eventually became a training hall and grew into the temple that it is today. The temple's hall is so large because so many people wanted to learn more about his teachings.

Mitsuzawa: Honen Shonin was a man who had a very hard life. His father died in a war when he was young, and Nembutsu was suppressed because it was mistakenly interpreted as a denial of strict training... I believe this is not just a place to receive connections and blessings, but a place where you can meet, on an equal footing, a person who lived a life full of hardships. Why not visit with the feeling of consulting a senior?

Honen-in Temple: Enjoy the autumn leaves at the tranquil Honen-in Temple with its thatched roof gate

It's about a 10-minute taxi ride from Konkai-Komyoji Temple. Honen-in Temple is located at the foot of Mt. Daimonji. In autumn, the area around the quaint thatched mountain gate is decorated with vibrant autumn leaves, and this place is also associated with Saint Honen. There is a garden with a triad of stones symbolizing the Amida Triad in the center, and a pure spring called "Zenki-sui" flows continuously. You can escape from your busy daily life and spend some time in peace and tranquility.

Mitsuzawa: Surrounded by abundant nature, Honen-in Temple is a very quiet place, but it is also the site of a rather scandalous incident known as the "Jogen Persecution." At the beginning of the Kamakura period, when a chanting event was held between monks and the general public, two women who served Emperor Gotoba were so impressed by the nembutsu chanting of a monk who was a disciple of Honen that they became nuns on the spot. The emperor was furious that they had become nuns without permission, and he punished many monks, beheading those who had held the event. Honen Shonin was exiled to Sanuki Province, and Shinran, the founder of the Jodo Shinshu sect, and others were also exiled.

Mitsuzawa: The tranquility of Honen-in Temple gives you the opportunity to escape the secular world and face yourself. Being away from the eyes of the world also means being away from worldly values, such as feelings of profit and loss. Using money to get what you want, and acting to satisfy your desires, is the way of thinking of the secular world, or "Saha." Buddhism teaches that "everything happens as it should," and actions based on desire are considered evil. Why not take a moment to reflect on yourself every day?

Koyasu Kannon in Kitashirakawa: A huge stone Buddha statue, about 2 meters tall, that appears along the way

After leaving Honen-in Temple, head north along the Philosopher's Path, known as a popular spot for viewing autumn leaves, and walk west along Imadegawa-dori for about 20 minutes. At the corner where Imadegawa-dori and Shiga-koshi-michi cross diagonally, you will find Koyasu Kanzeon. Standing at about 2 meters tall, it suddenly appears on the side of the road and has an overwhelming presence. It is recommended for an autumn stroll.

Mitsuzawa: This stone statue of Amitabha Buddha, commonly known as "Koyasu Kannon," was made in the middle of the Kamakura period. It is well known to the locals as a stone Buddha for praying for safe childbirth. This place is near the entrance to the old Shirakawa village (now Kitashirakawa Shibuse-cho), which was a key transportation point, so it may have protected many travelers in the past.

Hyakumanben Chionji Temple, the head temple of the Jodo sect: Hyakumanben-san, bustling with 100-meter-long rosary and 350 flea markets

After praying to Koyasu Kannon, walk along Imadegawa-dori for about 10 minutes and you will see Hyakumanben Chion-ji Temple across from the Kyoto University campus area. "Hyakumanben" was named after the fact that in 1331, when an epidemic spread in the capital, people chanted Buddhist prayers "a hundred million times over seven days and seven nights," which cured the epidemic. The temple is affectionately known to locals as "Hyakumanben-san," and the surrounding area is also named "Hyakumanben" after this temple. Once you step through the gate, you will see a spacious temple grounds with 18 large pine trees, which will instantly create a sense of openness.

Mitsuzawa: This is where Honen Shonin spent his time when he was 43 years old. There is a statue of him with a youthful face here. How to spread Buddhism? This is the place where Honen Shonin expressed and put into practice what he felt and learned.

Usually, there are places in temples where only monks can perform services or enter. This comes from the distinction between "uchijin" (internal) and "gaijin" (foreigner), and implies that monks are closer to Buddha, but Hyakumanben Chionji Temple places importance on monks and non-monks standing in the same place.

Mitsuzawa: As a sign of its openness to the public, an event called "Hyakumanben Dai Nenjuguri" is held on the 15th of every month (25th in August only). This is when monks and laypeople alike stand in a circle and spin a giant rosary (prayer beads). The sight of everyone spinning a giant rosary that is 100 meters long, weighs 320 kilograms, and has 1,080 beads is something you won't see very often anywhere else. In conjunction with "Hyakumanben Dai Nenjuguri," a handmade flea market is held on the temple grounds, with around 350 stalls, attracting many visitors.

In addition, only those who apply for the sutra copying session held at the same time can enjoy a special tour of the Hojo Garden, which is not open to the public. The autumn leaves that brightly color the dry landscape garden are very beautiful and worth a visit. Please make sure to book your trip accordingly.

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*Some content was updated on September 12, 2019.