A writer who fell in love with Hawaii recommends the must-gos and must-eats in Oahu!

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Text and photos: Eiichi Imai

Oahu's must-visit spots and gourmet food

I have traveled to Hawaii over 100 times, including for reporting, photography, and for personal reasons. I have been to the three islands of Kauai, Hawaii Island, and Maui the most, followed by Oahu, where Waikiki is located. I have also been to Molokai and Lanai several times, and have stayed on each island for quite some time. I have also been to Niihau twice, which is privately owned and therefore difficult for the general public to enter. Nowadays, friends and acquaintances sometimes ask me to be a local guide.

When I go there for an interview, I sometimes notice things that the locals don't notice, or scenery that they don't see very often. So, with the condition that it's "from my point of view," I would like to introduce some spots on the island of Oahu in Hawaii that are definitely worth visiting and that you will definitely want to visit again.

A beach of happiness called "no suffering"

Sans Souci Beach (Kaimana Beach)

The beach is located on the outskirts of Waikiki, just at the foot of Diamond Head (a dormant volcano). It is a small beach in front of the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel. Some people call it "Kaimana Beach," but locals have always affectionately called this small beach "Sans Souci Beach."

"Sans Souci" is French and means "without suffering". In English, it would be something like "Without Pain". It's quite literary and philosophical for a beach name.

Early in the morning, just before the sun rises, you can see the locals at Sanssouci Beach. People who enter from this beach to swim long distances before going to work, people training in kayaks and outrigger canoes, and surfers... the atmosphere at this beach in the early morning is the best.

The daytime crowd of tourists fades away surprisingly quickly, and around 4pm, they start folding up their beach mats and towels with expressions that seem to say, "That's enough," and leaving. They're probably heading back to their hotels to take a shower, change clothes, and head to dinner.

On the other hand, locals start gathering around 5pm. There are stoic swimmers heading out for an evening swim, surfers trying to catch the last wave of the day, and of course locals just relaxing on the sand or on benches. At dusk, this small beach that was once bustling with tourists changes completely and becomes a "locals' garden."

Yes, Sans Souci is a beach like a local's garden. It's a special place that the locals cherish. It has a unique atmosphere, as if this beach is floating in the middle of Waikiki. If you're a bit perceptive, you'll "feel" it when you come to this beach. A pleasant breeze always blows through the sacred Kapiolani Park and this beach.

When I arrived in Honolulu, I first entered the ocean at Sans Souci, as if soaking in a hot spring at a therapeutic spa. I slowly entered the water feet first, saluted the ocean by sliding my palms over the surface of the water, and then quietly placed my whole body in the water. The ocean water felt cold at first, but I soon got used to it once my head was in. Then I floated on my back on the surface of the water. I looked straight up at the sky.

If you float on the waves for a while, your whole body and mind will be reset. Sanssouci is a place that resets the mind and body of travelers.

"Poke" is a Hawaiian local dish that pairs perfectly with beer.

Tamura (TAMURA'S FINE WINES & LIQUORS)

If you come to Hawaii, be sure to try "poke." Poke is one of Hawaii's local dishes. It is different from "Polynesian foods" that have been passed down since ancient times, such as poi (taro paste). Poke is the king of local foods that was born in modern Hawaii in the 20th century.

Poke (some people call it poki) originally means "finely chopped or sliced" in Hawaiian. However, in Hawaii today, "poke" refers to a specific food. For example, "Ahi Poke" means "tuna (Ahi) cut into cubes and marinated in soy sauce," and "Tako Poke" means "octopus chopped finely and lightly salted." In other words, "poke" is a general term for various small cut ingredients (mostly seafood) marinated in soy sauce, rock salt, etc.

The basic dish is ahi poke (red tuna marinated in soy sauce). However, there are many other variations, such as "tofu poke," "fried eggplant poke," "shellfish poke," "radish poke," and more. Each restaurant has its own unique style and flavor.

What makes it a little different from the so-called "tsukemono" in Japan is that it uses sesame oil and sesame seeds. Even if you eat a marinated tuna bowl at a Japanese sushi restaurant, you won't get the taste of sesame oil. However, Hawaii's marinated tuna uses sesame oil, which makes it incredibly delicious!

Just like udon for people in Kagawa and ramen for people in Hakata, locals who consider themselves poke lovers have a certain commitment to "I always eat here" or "I only buy it here." So, if you're staying in Waikiki, we recommend "Tamura's" in the Kaimuki district.

Originally a local liquor store, it now has a great "poke corner" in the back. They have several varieties of ahi poke and tako poke, as well as "green chili ahi poke" and "salted ahi poke," which I always find difficult to choose (each available by the quarter pound).

Other recommended dishes include "Lomi Salmon" (salmon poke, also delicious) and "Fried Tofu Poke". And don't forget to try "Garlic Edamame". It's a type of poke made from boiled edamame soaked in garlic soy sauce, and goes really well with beer.

It's nice to buy some poke and relax with a beer on the balcony of your hotel in the evening. I always start with a Boston lager, "Samuel Adams."