Discover the charms of each region through sake. Unique sake breweries where young people are leading the next generation

Thinking of the local area, entrusting the future of the brewery to nature and the local climate | Fujii Sake Brewery [Takehara City, Hiroshima Prefecture]

Fujii Sake Brewery is located in Takehara City, Hiroshima Prefecture, a scenic town that once developed as a salt manufacturing industry. Takehara City, which can be reached in about 30 minutes by car from Hiroshima Airport, is also known as "Little Kyoto of Aki," as it is home to many traditional shrines and temples, as well as the mansions and village headmen of the once prosperous salt industry.

Founded in 1863 (Bunkyu 3), Fujii Sake Brewery is a small sake brewery that brews "Ryusei," "Yoru no Teiou," and "Hoju."
We spoke to Yoshihiro Fujii, the sixth generation brewer and executive managing director, about his thoughts on the brewery and Takehara.

After graduating from a university in the United States and working at an advertising agency in Tokyo, Fujii-san joined his family business, Fujii Sake Brewery, in 2013. He says he has been rebranding the brewery to suit the new era.

"We have redefined sake to make it easier for consumers to understand. We have also redesigned the label to be more stylish so that it is easier for consumers to pick it up. We have placed importance on the Japanese taste so that it is clear at a glance that it is 'Japanese sake.'" (Fujii)

We also made some big decisions on the manufacturing side.

"Even if we use the latest equipment to make the perfect sake, if a brewery with a lot of money comes along, they can quickly make something just as good. So we decided to focus on the traditional, additive-free kimoto brewing method that we've been using for many years. If we make sake using only the microorganisms that grow in this region's climate, then even if the environment changes, that's the Takehara taste. It's unwavering."

He spoke passionately about the transformation that is taking place with an eye to the next 100 years.

"I love Takehara and Japan. I wonder if local companies alone can protect the region. I want to create a company that can contribute to revitalizing the region."

He has found a way forward by cultivating sake rice, which is the raw material for sake, and is also challenging himself with organic farming without pesticides. His goal is to one day establish an agricultural corporation to promote employment in Takehara and protect the natural environment.

Enjoy a leisurely drink of sake in the laid-back atmosphere of the Seto Inland Sea

If you want to enjoy Fujii Sake Brewery's sake, you should visit the "Sake Brewery Exchange Center," which utilizes a corner of the sake brewery built at the end of the Edo period. The 250-year-old wooden brewery is also designated as a cultural asset of Takehara City. You can always try 3-4 types of sake for free, and the "Sake Brewery Exchange Center Limited Edition Sake" that is released several times a year is a special product that is not usually available on the market. If you happen to be there at the right time, you'll be in luck.

Additionally, at the handmade soba restaurant "Sakagura Soba Dokoro Tanizaki" located inside the Sake Brewery Exchange Center, you can enjoy soba appetizers with Fujii Sake Brewery sake.

We spoke with Fujii about Takehara's charms and how to enjoy it.

"There are few places in the country where old houses remain in such a pristine condition, including the luxurious salt wholesaler's building and the birthplace of Rai Shunsui, the father of the Edo period Confucian scholar Rai Sanyo. I hope visitors can experience the atmosphere of the past."

"Takehara is a land blessed with so much pure water that we still use groundwater for our tap water. It faces the Seto Inland Sea and has a warm climate, with both the sea and the mountains. We hope you will enjoy sipping sake in the laid-back rural atmosphere. It's also easily accessible from Hiroshima Airport," said Fujii, and we could sense his great love for his hometown.

Fujii Sake Brewery/Sake Brewery Exchange Center

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The 14th generation of the brewery spins "pure and honest sake brewing" that will not shame the gods | Imanishi Sake Brewery [Sakurai City, Nara Prefecture]

Imanishi Sake Brewery has been brewing sake for over 360 years in Miwa, Sakurai City, Nara Prefecture, a place where the god of sake resides. It is home to Japan's oldest shrine, Omiwa Shrine, and is said to be the birthplace of sake, as recorded in the Nihon Shoki. It is also said to be the birthplace of sumo wrestling and Japanese performing arts, and is a historic place known as the "town of origin" of many things that continue to this day.

Imanishi Sake Brewery, which brews "Mimurosugi" and "Mimurosugi", has been located at the foot of Ogami Shrine since it was founded in 1660 (Manji 3). It is the only sake brewery that uses underground water from Mt. Miwa, the shrine's sacred object.

We spoke with CEO Masayuki Imanishi.

After graduating from university, Imanishi was working for a major company in Tokyo when he suddenly decided to return to his hometown after learning that his father, the previous president, had only a short time left to live. Then, one week after he joined Imanishi Sake Brewery in October 2011, his father passed away. This was the beginning of a turbulent life.

"I was suddenly appointed president when I was 28 years old. When I checked the business situation, it was in dire straits. I frantically organized our inventory, drew up a business plan, and somehow managed to hang on. In my second year, I set a goal: 'In five years, we will become a sake brewery that represents Nara Prefecture and is loved by everyone!' And even though I was ridiculed, I believed in my goal and kept going," Imanishi said, nodding calmly.

Now, "Mimurasugi" is a popular brand all over the country. It's safe to say that his goal has been achieved. What Imanishi wanted to protect, even at the cost of hardship, was the culture and pride of "Miwa's sake brewery," the origin of Japanese sake.

Imanishi looks straight ahead and says, "It's the customers who decide whether it's delicious. At Imanishi Sake Brewery, we make all our decisions based on our belief in brewing sake that is thoroughly pure and correct."

Our belief is to make the most correct choices in every process, rather than focusing on efficiency. This solid axis of choice ensures consistent, unwavering quality, resulting in consistently delicious food.

A myth related to Katsuhi Shrine in Miwa is recorded in the Nihon Shoki. As the country was thrown into chaos by an epidemic, Emperor Sujin had a dream in which he was told by a god to "appoint my descendants to the position of chief priests and offer sake." He then summoned Takahashi Ikuhi no Mikoto and offered him sacred sake that he had brewed overnight. Astonishingly, the epidemic went away and the country began to prosper. Takahashi Ikuhi no Mikoto, who saved the country through sake brewing, is enshrined as the god of brewers at Katsuhi Shrine, a sub-shrine of Omiwa Shrine.

At this time, Imanishi frequently recites the poem composed by Takahashi Katsuhito.

"This sacred sake is not my own, but the sacred sake brewed by Omononushi of Yamato for a long time."

The translation is, "I did not brew this sacred sake; it was brewed by Omononushi-no-Kami, who created the land of Yamato. May it prosper for generations to come."

Imanishi Sake Brewery reminds us that sake brewing was once part of a religious ceremony, and perhaps it is still under the watchful eye of the gods.

Get to know Miwa better and enjoy it even more with the "Sake Mess" Tour

Miwa is visited by 5 million tourists a year. Originally, tourist guides were provided by volunteers, but one day, Imanishi was consulted by a housewife who said, "I married into Miwa and I've come to realize how wonderful this area is. I would like to convey its charms to tourists, too, but my children are still small and I need help, so volunteering is difficult." Imanishi thought, "If I could earn a salary as a guide, I would be able to balance work with raising my children, and it would also be beneficial for visitors," so he planned the "Sacred Land of Sake Tour" from scratch and began training tour guides.

On the "Sake Holy Land Junka Tour," guides trained by Imanishi Sake Brewery will carefully show you around Miwa. The course includes visits to Ogami Shrine, Sai Shrine, and Katsunikko Shrine, as well as a sake tasting experience at the Imanishi Sake Brewery main store, but other than that, it is up to the guides to provide their own unique hospitality. Each tour has its own unique character, so you can enjoy it no matter how many times you participate.

As Imanishi says, "Rather than selling sake, I want people to get to know and enjoy the land of Miwa," you can get to know Miwa on a deeper level than any other tour. Even if you can't drink alcohol, it's a good idea to sign up for the "Sake Holy Land Junpai Tour" when you visit Miwa.

Imanishi Sake Brewery Main Store

Imanishi Sake Brewery, Approach Store

Cafe Miwaza in front of the station

Sake Holy Land Tour

*Reservation required at least one week in advance

*The opening hours of each store may be subject to change. Please check before using.

A perfect souvenir. "Takaragawa" sake that can only be bought in Otaru | Tanaka Sake Brewery [Otaru, Hokkaido]

Otaru City in Hokkaido once flourished as the "northern commercial capital." Many people are attracted to the nostalgic townscape, which still retains its glasswork, the Otaru Canal, and many historical buildings built over 100 years ago.

Tanaka Sake Brewery, founded in 1899 (Meiji 32), produces sake "Takaragawa", as well as amazake, shochu, liqueurs, and hon mirin. The sea is right in front of "Kikkogura", where you can freely tour the brewery. It takes 30 minutes to walk from Kikkogura to the main store, but on a nice day, the beautiful scenery makes you want to take a walk along the coast to the main store.

We spoke to Haruna Ono, head of the sales department at Tanaka Sake Brewery, about the brewery.

Ono-san, who was born and raised in Otaru, joined Tanaka Sake Brewery after graduating from high school. He worked in a number of departments, including production, sales, and planning, before assuming his current position.

"Tanaka Sake Brewery's sake is not sold anywhere else outside of Otaru. It's not available in Sapporo or at the airport; it's genuine 'Otaru local sake' that can only be purchased here. If you come to Otaru, be sure to buy some of our sake to take home with you!" he told me enthusiastically.

"Takaragawa" has been using 100% Hokkaido rice since 2000. Most of the sake rice used is "Suisei" from Hokkaido, and most of it is from contracted farmers in Niseko Town. All the employees rush to help with everything from rice planting to harvesting.

"If you've come all the way to Hokkaido, you'll be happier if the ingredients are 100% produced in Hokkaido. Not only the sake, but the fruits used in the liqueurs also come from Yoichi and Niki towns," says Ono.

The average age of employees is in their 20s. Almost every year, young people who graduate from local high schools join the company. The brewery is run by a combination of veteran skills, led by the master brewer, Atsuo Takano, and young, fresh talent.

You can visit any time of the year to see sake brewing

It takes a year to produce 500 koku (approximately 50,000 1.8L bottles) of sake. You can visit any time of the year to see the sake brewing process.

Both Kikkogura and the main store have around 10 types of sake available for free tasting. For those who don't like alcohol, sweet sake and black bean tea are available. Also, each store has one limited edition sake, so be sure to visit both stores.

We asked Ono about the attractions of Otaru City.

"It's a comfortable, warm-hearted city. The classic Otaru Canal offers different views depending on the season. Cherry blossoms at Canal Park, the clear air around the canal in summer, and autumn leaves in autumn. In winter, the illuminations amid the snowy scenery are beautiful. It's fun to visit any time of the year."

Takaragawa can only be purchased in the beautiful town of Otaru. Please take a short walk from Sakaimachi Street, which is packed with popular spots, to visit the shop.

Tanaka Sake Brewery Main Store

Tanaka Sake Brewery Kikkogura

*Business hours may be subject to change. Please check before using.

The pride of an Okayama sake brewery that protects Japan's oldest sake rice, Omachi | Tsujimototen [Maniwa City, Okayama Prefecture]

Maniwa City and Katsuyama in northern Okayama Prefecture once prospered as the castle town of the Mimasaka Katsuyama Domain. The old townscape, full of historical atmosphere, remains to this day, and in 1985 it was designated as the first "townscape preservation district" in Okayama Prefecture.

Founded in 1804 (the first year of the Bunka era), Tsujimoto once produced sake to be presented to feudal lords and was given the name "Gozenzake". This was later changed to "Gozenzake", and is still the case today.

We spoke with President and CEO Soichiro Tsuji.

He joined Tsujimoto in 2002. In 2012, he was appointed Representative Director at the young age of 33. His sister, Maiko, is currently working as the chief brewer, responsible for production.

"The turning point came in 2007 when my sister became the chief brewer, replacing Takumi Harada, who had supported Gozenshu for 46 years. At that time, the brewery staff was changing generationally, and there were nine young people, including my sister and me. At the time, the shochu boom was in full swing. To break through the current situation, we thought we might as well create a product that would reach our generation, so we launched GOZENSHU9 in 2008," says Tsuji.

Tsuji said, "More than 10 years have passed since we released '9.' It has completed one role, and we are considering a renewal," and told us about a major project he is currently working on.

"We aim to use 100% Omachi rice, under the slogan 'The future of Omachi lies in Gozenshu'. Omachi is a sake rice from Okayama Prefecture and is the oldest surviving sake rice in Japan. It was once discontinued, but in the late 1980s the fourth generation of Toshimori Sake Brewery (in the same prefecture) revived Omachi rice, and our brewery and other breweries in the prefecture began using Omachi rice. My father, the previous generation, also cherished Omachi rice from the beginning, so I have a special attachment to it. In 2020, we launched our flagship brand, '1859', which takes its name from the year Omachi rice was discovered.

We use Omachi rice because we are proud to be an Okayama sake brewery. The future of sake breweries will be to make sake using what is available in the surrounding environment. In recent years, sake rice farmers have become younger, so by purchasing the rice and making sake, we want to protect Okayama's agricultural products."

"Over the years, my position has changed and I am now in a position to train the next generation. My older sister is the head of production, so we are very creative and leave the heavy work, like transporting rice, to machines. Perhaps because we have young female brewers who are active in the industry, we were approached this season and accepted a female university student as an intern. We are very grateful."

Enjoy the same sake enjoyed by the feudal lord of Katsuyama in this atmospheric post town

Although it is not possible to tour the inside of the brewery, you can experience the atmosphere of that time at "NISHIKURA," a renovated sake storehouse built in the mid-Meiji period. There is a direct sales store and cafe on the first floor, and a restaurant on the second floor.

We asked Mr. Tsuji about the attractions and fun of Maniwa City.

"Maniwa City is the largest in Okayama Prefecture. Our sake brewery, miso and soy sauce storehouses, and beer breweries are located in the Katsuyama area in the south, while in the Hiruzen Plateau area in the north, immigrants have set up cheese factories and wineries. I want people to experience both Japanese and Western fermentation cultures."

In 2012, "Maniwa Fermentation's" was established, with seven companies involved in fermentation in both areas as the core group.

"Katsuyama's charm is undoubtedly the kindness of the people who live here. Elementary school students and young children have the habit of greeting everyone, even tourists. Because it developed as a post town where people and goods come and go, it has the soil to accept diverse cultures," says Tsuji.

This is a town with friendly people, and we hope you will enjoy to your heart's content the "Gozenzake" that the lord of Katsuyama also enjoyed with his meals.

Tsujimoto store

NISHIKURA

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Through the thoughts of each brewery, I was able to learn about the deep history and culture of the region that I had never seen before. If you are interested in sake, please visit sake breweries in various regions. The deliciousness of sake enjoyed in the local atmosphere will penetrate even more deeply into your heart.

Text by Tomomi Seki

*This article was updated in part on April 19, 2021.