One of Japan's leading spots for Japanese sweets! A colorful and sweet journey through Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture

It was a clear, sunny day in Matsue. Although I visited in early summer, it was still rainy. I had imagined the atmosphere of a castle town with damp cobblestones, but the quaint streets peeking through the flickering heat haze seemed to vividly reflect the historical charm of the area.

Experience the tea ceremony culture that was founded by Lord Matsudaira Fumai in a teahouse associated with him

In the center of Matsue city stands Matsue Castle, a national treasure. A moat surrounds the rugged black castle walls, and on the opposite bank is a charming castle town. If you walk up the narrow path in front of the north gate, you will find the teahouse Meimei-an on your left.

As you climb the well-maintained stone steps that wind between the trees, a beautiful garden comes into view, with Matsue Castle in the distance.

The teahouse, which appears to float in the dry landscape garden, was designed by Matsudaira Harusato, the seventh feudal lord of Matsue, who is affectionately known in Matsue as the tea master Fumai-ko. It is a thatched hut style with a simple, rustic feel, and has a serene appearance with a thatched roof. The ideals of Fumai, who did not follow established rules, are vividly conveyed.

In addition to observing, you can also enjoy a tea ceremony here. The tea ceremony is performed in the Fumai style. The aesthetics of Lord Fumai, who sought the essence of samurai tea by cutting out all unnecessary elements and discouraging extravagance in tea ceremonies, are alive and well here.

The exquisite taste of Japanese sweets is the essence of Matsue's tea ceremony

"Lord Fumai's tea is also known as 'tea of the seasoning.' Its gist is that one should focus on what is visible, not be bound by formalities, and enjoy what is best for the time. Each school has its own way of drinking tea, but the Fumai school, while being polite, does not stick to formal rules, and so it spread among the common people."

That's what Moriyama Toshio, the manager who showed me around Meimeian, told me. Tea has long been loved by the people of Matsue, and is enjoyed while sitting on the veranda. Along with the tea ceremony, we enjoy Japanese sweets. We choose "Natane no Sato", a rakugan rice cracker made by San'ei-do, the company that made sweets for the Matsudaira family, and "Wakakusa", a smooth gyuhi rice cake. Both have just the right amount of sweetness that doesn't interfere with the flavor of the tea. This is another example of Lord Fumai's unique "seasoning."

Moriyama: "A confectionery shop in the city makes new nerikiri twice a month. They make about 24 different kinds a year, keeping the seasons in mind. Tea, which was introduced from China, has become a unique culture in Japan that incorporates the changing of the seasons. If you come to Matsue, you can enjoy sweets for every season."

Myoan

"Botebotecha" - a meal that conveys the culture of the tea ceremony to the present day

If you're hungry, try "Botebotecha," a meal inspired by the tea ceremony culture. We visited Chidori Chaya in the Matsue Castle Square. "Botebotecha" is not a very familiar word, but it is the name of a meal that has been popular in Matsue for a long time. Pickles, chopped freeze-dried tofu, steamed rice, and boiled beans are poured into the frothy tea and then poured down.

There are various theories about the origin of "Botebote tea," including that it was an emergency food source, or that it was a meal for tatara (ironworks) workers to satisfy their hunger between work shifts, but it is believed to have been named after the "botebote" sound made when dried tea flowers and bancha tea are poured into a round bowl and whisked with a long tea whisk.

It is a truly hearty meal, but the tastefulness of it all is likely due to the influence of tea ceremony culture.

As you drink it, the saltiness and sweetness blend together in perfect harmony, making you want to eat more. The aroma of the tea wafts through the air, and you can also taste the umami of the kelp. The glutinous rice and black beans add just the right amount of accent. It's perfect as a snack, a light meal, or as a finishing touch after a night of drinking.

Chidori Tea House

Explore the culture at Ichirikido, the city's oldest Japanese confectionery shop

There are said to be about 13 Japanese confectionery shops in Matsue city. That's quite a lot for a regional city with a population of 200,000, and it's proof that tea ceremony culture is integrated into the lives of the people of Matsue. We visited Ichirikido, said to be the oldest Japanese confectionery shop, located in Kyomise, an old shopping street in the city center.

"The store dates back to the Horeki era, around 1751. Matsue is famous for its seventh feudal lord, Matsudaira Harusato, but it was during the time of the sixth feudal lord, Lord Soen. The first founder of Ichirikido visited Edo on his alternate attendance tour, where he learned how to make bean paste, and opened a Japanese confectionery shop in Matsue. I think it became a purveyor to the government during Lord Fumai's time. At the time, there were several Japanese confectionery shops in the castle town, and each shop was assigned to make specific sweets. I have heard that Ichirikido was in charge of yokan and Yamakawa."

The owner, Takami Masaaki, was very talkative and gave us his recommendations. "Nishiki Ogura" is made by sandwiching soft red beans from Bitchu between castella cake. "Hime Kosode" was banned from sale to the general public during the Edo period because it was used for tea ceremonies for nobles, and has a crispy texture with a refined bean paste inside. "Wakakusa" is also a delicious treat with a smooth gyuhi filling and a crunchy batter that adds a nice accent.

"The meaning of jo-namagashi is slightly different from sweets that last a long time, such as yokan. Jo-namagashi are something that you can only buy on the day you order them. So in the old days, offering them was a way of conveying sincerity, like 'we've prepared this just for you.' I think that the culture that draws inspiration from these sweets is a distinctive feature of Matsue, a city famous for its confectionery. A keen sensibility for sweets is deeply rooted here."

Ichirikido also offers the experience of making Japanese sweets (please inquire). If you want to experience the essence of Matsue's proud Japanese sweets with all your senses, it might be a good idea to step inside the noren curtain of this long-established store.

Ichirikido Kyoto Main Store

A trip to Matsue that will satisfy both your appetite and your curiosity

It has been about 200 years since the time of Lord Fumai to the present day. A trip through this castle town, which has developed an atmosphere as a town of Japanese sweets, was a series of delicious surprises.

The castle town, steeped in a rich history, has a clean appearance befitting the culture of the samurai class, but the brightly colored sweets and vibrant townspeople culture found everywhere create a unique atmosphere. A trip to Matsue will satisfy both your appetite and your curiosity. So, which Japanese sweets should you buy as a souvenir?