
Ai Nishimura
Administrator of the blog "My Diary," which began in 2004. A writer who has traveled to all 47 prefectures and loves local culture and history.
Author of Shimane's "Geography, Place Names, and Maps" Mysteries (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha), My Town is the "Number One in Japan" Dictionary (PHP Institute), and Prefectures Explained in Neko Neko Japanese History (Jitsugyo no Nihonsha). Official blogger for Suntory Gourmet Guide, official top user for Retty, and official platinum blogger for Excite.
A historical tour of Oki Province (the former name of the Oki Islands). Historically, the Oki Islands are known as islands where high-ranking emperors and retired emperors were exiled due to political upheaval. There are many festivals and unique island cultures, and a journey tracing history is also enjoyable. Visit a shrine with a magnificent main hall and stop by a stylish coffee shop.
I was honestly surprised! There was a stylish cafe on the island. "Sloboda Cafe" where you can enjoy carefully selected coffee and miscellaneous goods.
Sloboda Cafe (SLOBODA CF) is a cafe near Oki Hospital, which is also the bus stop for Okinoshima Town. It is a small cafe located in a corner of Azuma Furniture, Salad Hall, a store that sells daily necessities, gifts, and interior goods, but it is a very stylish and particular store.
They serve a variety of coffees brewed in a variety of ways, including hand drip, espresso machine, siphon, etc. Above all, the manager, Mr. Ishikawa, brews coffee with such joy that it is clear he loves coffee.
The comfortable space means you won't get bored while waiting for the bus, but you should be careful not to miss it.
Sloboda Cafe is a great place to drop in while waiting for the bus.
It's a small cafe in a corner of a furniture and interior design shop.
They sell single-origin (single farm) coffee beans, as well as beans whose quality is controlled based on the growing method.
Siphon, machine, drip, and other extraction methods to suit the beans.
Ishikawa-san returned to Oki and opened this cafe in July 2017.
Iced coffee is stylish. Takeout is also available!
The shop's Instagram is also full of atmospheric photos. Search for "sloboda.cf".
Tamawakasu Shrine, protected by eight hundred cedar trees, is about 2,000 years old!
Tamawakasu Mikoto Shrine is about a 10-minute bike ride from Ai no Hashi Shopping Street. When you arrive, you will first see a large torii gate, then a huge cedar tree with a thick trunk, Yaosugi, said to be about 2,000 years old, will catch your eye. It is one of the oldest in Okinoshima Town and is a nationally designated natural monument. Just seeing the way it has lived its desperate existence is enough to cleanse your soul.
Among the many shrines in Okinoshima Town, Tamawakasu Shrine has the oldest shrine building.
The main hall's roof had just been re-roofed. It has a unique Oki-style structure and shines with a divine golden glow.
The eight hundred cedar trees are sticking out. In the back is the worship hall of Tamawakasu no Mikoto Shrine.
These are the steps leading to the worship hall. The steps are shallow because of the "Umaire Shinto Ceremony" that is held at this shrine. It is a powerful ritual in which a horse gallops through the narrow approach to the shrine. I would like to see it someday.
A splendid worship hall. The rain was a little strong at the time.
This small building is the old worship hall. At first glance, the current worship hall is larger and more elaborately designed, but this old worship hall was built in 186 and is a nationally designated important cultural property.
The large thatched roof has just been replaced and is shining brightly! The main hall is built in a style called "Oki-zukuri".
There is a spring in the precincts, and a shrine in the middle. I was told that this groundwater also flows under the Japanese cedar trees, which is why the shrine has been able to survive for about 2,000 years.
The giant cedar tree "Yaosugi" is one of the three great cedars of Oki. It is an old cedar whose thick trunk is completely hollow, but it is still struggling to survive. When you see the rough bark of the tree, you can feel its strong vitality, and it feels as if a god is residing there.
There is a group of ancient tombs on the mountain behind Tamawakasu-no-Mikoto Shrine.
Tamawakasu Shrine is the head shrine of Oki Province. It is said that if you visit here, you will have paid a visit to all the gods of Oki. It was a shrine worth seeing.
Oki Kokubunji Temple, a temple surrounded by lush greenery, is said to be the place where Emperor Godaigo lived.
We arrived at the quiet temple of Oki Kokubunji. This is said to be the site of the temporary residence of Emperor Go-Daigo, who was exiled after the Genkō Incident (there are various theories), and there is a stone monument to that effect.
It is also the place where the Renge-emai dance, a nationally designated Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property, is passed down, and in the Renge-emai Hall next to the main hall, there are the masks used, explanations of the dance, and a stage.
After the rains of the rainy season, we enjoyed the time to reflect on the history and culture of the temple in the beautiful green surroundings.
Oki Kokubunji Temple. The main hall was burned down in 2007, and was rebuilt to take its current form.
"Kokubunji" refers to temples built in various places during the reign of Emperor Shomu. Oki Kokubunji is a historic site, registered as a national historic site.
There is a bell tower, and apparently there used to be a three-story pagoda as well.
The grounds were beautifully green. It was nice even on a rainy day.
A stone monument marking the site of Emperor Go-Daigo's temporary residence. After Emperor Go-Daigo was exiled to Oki, he escaped in the rough waves of the Sea of Japan. There is a theory that Emperor Go-Daigo's residence was Kuroki Palace on Nishinoshima Island.
The museum and stage for the "Renge-kaimai" dance. This is a folk art form handed down in Oki Kokubunji. The masks are somewhat exotic, reminiscent of Balinese dance, so it's a festival you'll want to see at least once.
It's about a 15-minute bus ride from the port. It's fun to imagine what the temple was like in the old days.
Read the second part here
The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.