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November 13, 2018

Discover the hidden charms of Tokushima. Stunning views and history in the hidden Nishi-Awa region

The "Nishi-Awa" region consists of two cities and two towns in the western part of Tokushima Prefecture. This area is home to unique, spectacular scenery created by nature and historic townscapes built by human activity, and is gradually becoming more popular as a tourist destination.
Additionally, the Nishi-Awa Slope Farming System, a farming method unique to the Nishi-Awa region that uses steep slopes, was designated a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System in March 2018. It has attracted a great deal of attention both within and outside the prefecture.
This time, we will introduce the charms of the Nishi-Awa region, such as Ochiai Village, which evokes a traditional Japanese landscape, the notable spots of Iya Valley, a hidden gem in the Oku-Iya district, and the Udatsu Streetscape of Wakimachi, which still retains traces of its past when it developed as a distribution center for indigo.
Text: Takashi Shigeto

Visit the hidden village of Ochiai, where the legend of the Heike clan's refugees remains

Ochiai Village

The Iya region of Tokushima Prefecture is known as one of the three most remote areas of Japan, where legends of the Heike clan's refugees and pioneering traditions remain. Among them, Ochiai Village is located on the southern slope of a mountain located almost in the center of eastern Iya, east of Mount Tsurugi, known as the second highest peak in Shikoku.

The maximum elevation difference within the village is about 390 meters. From the observation deck set up in Nakakami village across the valley, you can see the entire unexplored mountain village, including houses built clinging to the mountainside, rice fields cultivated by our ancestors, and stone walls built in a unique way.

画像: 青空の下、展望所から見た落合集落の全景

Panoramic view of Ochiai village from the observation deck under a blue sky

The Nishi-Awa sloping land farming system, which the Nishi-Awa region, including Ochiai Village, is proud of, was the first in the Chugoku-Shikoku region to be recognized as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System. The Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System was established in 2011 to re-evaluate and conserve areas that are engaged in traditional agriculture, forestry, and fisheries that are considered to be of global importance.

The "Nishi Awa Sloping Land Farming System" is characterized by the use of "Koeguro (collected thatch)" to dry thatch and mix it with the soil to prevent soil erosion, as well as unique cultivation techniques using the traditional farming tool "Sarae (Mutsugo)." The award was highly praised for the knowledge and techniques inherited from their predecessors that have made farming on sloping land sustainable, and for the local culture based on mutual aid.

画像: 「コエグロ」で茅を干している様子 写真提供:PIXTA

Drying thatch in a "Koeguro" (Photo provided by PIXTA)

The symbol of Ochiai village, which was designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings by the national government in 2005, is the Nagaoka Family Residence. This private house, originally built in 1901 for the ruling class, was restored between 2007 and 2008 and is now open to the public free of charge.

The roof is thatched, and the exterior walls are uniquely finished with "Hishagi bamboo" pasted on top of the mud-plastered walls. This is a durable exterior material made by roasting bamboo over a fire, splitting it, and crushing it flat, and it is said to protect the mud-plastered walls from rainwater and the cold of winter.

画像: 大きな茅葺屋根が印象的な「長岡家住宅」

The Nagaoka Family Residence, with its impressive large thatched roof

画像: 囲炉裏部屋の障子を開け放つと、東祖谷の山々が見渡せる

When you open the sliding screens in the hearth room, you can see the mountains of Higashi-Iya.

The Nagaoka House is a private house made up of six rooms with different layouts, and is said to have a slightly unusual layout that is slightly different from other Iya houses. In addition to two hearth rooms, there are tatami rooms equipped with a "tana (study room)" and a "toko (alcove)," and from the large south-facing veranda you can view the beautiful surrounding mountains.

Ochiai Village
webhttps://miyoshi-tourism.jp/spot/ochiaishuraku/
addressHigashiiya Ochiai, Miyoshi City, Tokushima Prefecture

Enjoy the dynamic nature of Iya Valley, nurtured over countless years

Hinoji Valley

One of the spectacular views you should definitely experience when traveling to Iya Valley is the "Hinoji Valley." The origin of the name is obvious at a glance. The steeply meandering, emerald green Iya River looks like the shape of the hiragana character "hi."

画像: 「ひ」の字に見える祖谷川

The Iya River looks like the character "hi"

The beauty of the valley, which has been created by the power of nature over an unimaginable period of time, is overwhelming. In autumn, the entire mountain is covered in gorgeous autumn leaves, creating a breathtaking view.

About a five-minute drive from Hinoji Valley, there is a statue of the "Manneken Kozo" (Peeing Boy) standing on a cliff about 200 meters below the valley floor. This is the work of sculptor Yoshiyuki Kawasaki, who is from Tokushima Prefecture. It was made based on an anecdote that local children and travelers used to test their courage here, but please do not try to imitate this.

画像: 「ひの字渓谷」を見下ろす「小便小僧」像

The "Manneken Pis" statue overlooking the "Hinoji Valley"

Hinoji Valley
webhttps://miyoshi-tourism.jp/spot/iyakei-peeingboy/
addressTanouchi, Nishiiyayama Village, Miyoshi City, Tokushima Prefecture

Ride the world's longest tourist monorail and experience the nature of Oku-Iya with your whole body

Okuiya Sightseeing Monorail

If you want to experience the spectacular views of Oku-Iya rather than just looking at them, why not take a ride on the Oku-Iya Tourist Monorail, located about a 50-minute drive from Hinoji Valley?

画像: 奥祖谷の絶景を体感できる「奥祖谷観光周遊モノレール」

"Oku-Iya Sightseeing Monorail" where you can experience the magnificent scenery of Oku-Iya

The two-seater electric monorail departs approximately every four minutes and travels through the mountains for approximately 65 minutes. It has a total length of approximately 4,600 meters, an elevation difference of approximately 590 meters, a maximum gradient of approximately 40 degrees, and a maximum elevation of approximately 1,380 meters. In fact, all of these figures make it the world's best tourist monorail! This is a popular spot in Oku-Iya where you can easily enjoy the great outdoors of Oku-Iya.

The electric monorail moves at a walking speed and is quiet. You can enjoy the surrounding scenery at your leisure. With mountain peony flowers in spring and autumn leaves in autumn, you will never tire of seeing the nature of Oku-Iya, which changes with the seasons.

On holidays and holidays, many people visit the station, and tickets can sometimes sell out in the early afternoon, so if you want to be sure to get on the train, we recommend arriving early.

Okuiya Sightseeing Monorail
operating timeApril to September 8:30 to 16:00, October to November 8:30 to 15:30
Closed DayWednesdays (operates on public holidays), closed during winter from December to March of the following year
addressWithin the grounds of Iyashino Onsenkyo, 28 Sugo, Higashiiya, Miyoshi City, Tokushima Prefecture

Check out the beautiful merchant houses remaining from the Edo period. Walk around the distribution center of Awa indigo

Udatsu Streetscape

Located in Minamimachi Wakimachi, Mima City, almost in the center of Tokushima Prefecture, the "Udatsu Townscape" is an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, with many townhouses remaining from the Edo period onwards. This area has a history of prosperity as a distribution centre for Awa indigo dye in the midstream of the Yoshino River.

画像: 約400メートルにわたって豪壮な町家が通りの両側に連なる

Magnificent townhouses line both sides of the street for about 400 meters.

The street lined with stately merchant houses with large walls and real tile roofs is full of the atmosphere of the time. You should also pay attention to the many beautiful old-fashioned designs, such as the light-letting "Mushikomado" windows and the two-panel sunshade "Shitomido." Apparently, this area is often used as a location for period dramas.

"Udatsu" refers to a fire wall built on the boundary between neighboring houses. Because it was quite expensive to actually install, it was only built by wealthy people.

Image: Udatsu, which each family competed to decorate, was also a sign of wealth

The "udatsu" that each family competed to decorate was also a sign of wealth.

Here in Wakimachi, indigo merchants who amassed wealth during the Edo period competed to build "udatsu" and decorated them to compete with others, and as a result, they became symbols that displayed the prosperity of their stores and their social status.

There is an expression "udatsu ga agaruna (not getting promoted, not having a prominent status)," but for the people living in this "Udatsu townscape," these expressions may have been foreign to them.

Image: The softly lit street is enveloped in a fantastical atmosphere.

The streets are lit up with soft light, creating a fantastic atmosphere.

The Udatsu Street has many points of interest, including the mansion of Sagawaya Naobei, a wealthy indigo merchant, the Yoshida Family Residence, and the Odeon Theatre, the only wooden playhouse in Tokushima Prefecture, which was built in 1933 and has also been used as a filming location for movies.

At dusk, the street lamps that look like lanterns are installed under the eaves of the houses gently light up the street. Why not enjoy the charming beauty that is different from the daytime?

Udatsu Townscape
webhttps://www.awanavi.jp/feature/udatsu.html
addressWakimachi, Mima City, Tokushima Prefecture

Enjoy Tokushima's local dish, "Sobamai Zosui" in a retro teahouse

Chari-an

If you get hungry while walking around Udatsu Town, why not try the tea shop Saria, where you can eat soba rice porridge, one of Tokushima's local dishes?

Located opposite the "Indigo Merchant Sanao Yoshida Family Residence," the shop is a renovated merchant's house built in the Taisho era. In front of the shop is an indigo-dyed shop curtain, and on the left side is a large cloth dyed white with the words "Udatsu Specialty: Buckwheat Rice Porridge" written on it.

Image: The exterior of "Sarian" located almost in the center of "Udatsu Townscape"

The exterior of "Sari-an" located almost in the center of "Udatsu Townscape"

Surrounded by steep mountains, the Iya region makes it difficult to grow rice, so buckwheat was cultivated as a staple food. "Buckwheat" is made by boiling harvested buckwheat seeds, drying them, and removing the husk. "Buckwheat porridge" is a local dish made by simmering this with meat and vegetables in soup stock.

Photo: Buckwheat porridge, which was also selected as one of the "Top 100 Local Dishes of Rural Areas" by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries

"Sobamai porridge" was selected as one of the "100 Best Local Dishes of Rural Areas" by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries.

There is a theory that it was first made by the Heike clan's refugees in memory of the capital. Nowadays, it is eaten as a home-cooked dish throughout Tokushima Prefecture. At "Sari-an," it is served as a set with cold tofu, pickles, and dessert, and is popular with tourists from overseas.

The "Sobamai Zosui" is made by adding buckwheat seeds, carrots, and burdock to a soup stock carefully made from Tokushima's local chicken "Awaodori Chicken", dried shrimp, dried shiitake mushrooms, etc., and simmering it for a gentle, comforting taste. The crunchy texture of the buckwheat seeds creates a unique rhythm in your mouth.

Photo: The rich flavor of buckwheat simmered in dashi stock is unique to Sari-an

The rich flavor of buckwheat stewed in dashi broth is unique to "Sari-an"

As an original touch of "Sari-an", grilled mochi is added, making it a hearty and satisfying dish. In addition, sweets such as kinako mochi and mizu yokan are also available, so why not stop by for a break? It is sure to make your travel memories of the "Nishi-Awa" region even more fulfilling.

Tea house Chari-an
business hours10:00~17:00
Closed DayIrregular holidays
addressTokushima Prefecture, Mima City, Wakimachi Oaza Wakimachi 132-5 Wakimachi Udatsu Street

The Nishi-Awa region is a place where you can enjoy both spectacular natural scenery and historic townscapes. The atmosphere of Oku-Iya, home to Ochiai Village and Hinoji Valley, is truly worthy of being called a hidden region. It is no wonder that the legend of the Heike clan's fugitives remains. Walking through the Udatsu townscape, lined with stately merchant houses with large walls and real tiled roofs, will make you feel as if you have traveled back in time. There are also cafes and guesthouses that have been renovated from old houses. Enjoy your trip at your own pace.

Takashi Shigeto

A Tokyo-born, Tokushima-based interviewer/writer/copywriter. Her trade name is "Signature." She writes in a wide range of fields, with a focus on graphic design and illustration. Her main works include the "Design Note" and "Illustration Note" series published by Seibundo Shinkosha, and the "Creator" series published by Genkosha. In between interviews requested from all over the country, she enjoys reading, cooking, going for walks, and having bonfires.

The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.

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