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MAR 20 2018

Not just the World Heritage Site Itsukushima Shrine. Discover local spots in Miyajima

Miyajima, the island of the gods, is home to Itsukushima Shrine, a World Heritage Site in Hiroshima. Its temple and shrine architecture, typified by the red torii gates floating in the Seto Inland Sea, is known as one of the Three Most Scenic Spots of Japan, and is a popular spot bustling with tourists. However, that's not all that Miyajima has to offer. There are plenty of other recommended spots to stop by, including gourmet food and shopping. This time, we were guided around Miyajima by Isonaga Akiko, a freelance writer living in Hiroshima. We'll introduce you to some hidden cafes that only a local writer would know, and tips on how to enjoy popular shops wisely.
Photo and text: Akiko Isonaga

The thoughts behind "Osunayaki," which is made by mixing and baking sacred sand from Itsukushima Shrine

Yamane vs. Gendou "Gallery Yo"

Have you heard of Miyajima Osakoyaki, a Hiroshima craft? It is pottery made by kneading sand from under the main hall of Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima into the soil, and its simple texture has led to the creation of many dishes for daily use and tea utensils. The person who is breathing new artistic life into this osakoyaki is Yamane Koya, the third generation owner of Yamane Taigendo, which was founded in 1912.

画像: 山根対厳堂三代目 山根興哉さん

Yamane vs. Gendou III, Koya Yamane

"I want to create a piece that conveys people's feelings and history," he said, and after much trial and error, the "Eternal Fire Ash Glazed Candle Holder" was born, which is now one of Hiroshima's representative traditional crafts. It was inspired by the "Eternal Fire" that has been burning for over 1,200 years in the "Fusereikado" of Daishoin Temple at the summit of Mount Misen in Miyajima, and the words of the chief priest of Daishoin Temple who protects it.

"Just like the unextinguished flame that has been burning for 1,200 years thanks to the people who continue to protect it, I wanted to convey that everyone is watched over by someone," says Koya. His gentle and calm personality can be felt in each of his works.

画像: 『消えずの火灰釉キャンドルホルダー』

"Eternal Fire Ash Glazed Candle Holder"

The "Eternal Fire Ash Glazed Candle Holder" won the Hiroshima Good Design Award in 2015. It can be purchased at Gallery Yo, which is about a 3-minute walk from JR Miyajimaguchi Station.

Yamane vs. Gendou "Gallery Yo"
Closed DayWednesdays/Irregular holidays
business hours11:00~17:30
webmiyajimayaki.jp/
address1-2-6 Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture

Founded in 1901. Visit the long-established restaurant that gave birth to the Miyajima specialty "Anagomeshi"

Conger eel rice Ueno, Taninyoshi

"Anagomeshi" is famous nationwide as a ekiben that impresses gourmets. It is said to have started when the first owner of "Anagomeshi Ueno" made and sold bento boxes using conger eels, which were often caught in the nearby seas, as a ekiben at Miyajimaguchi Station (formerly Miyajima Station), which opened in 1897.

画像: 漆椀いっぱいに穴子がしきつめられた「あなごめし」

"Anagomeshi" is a lacquer bowl filled with conger eel.

Many people buy this ekiben, which is known for being "delicious even when cold," but if you've come all the way to Hiroshima, you'll want to try it at the restaurant of "Anagomeshi Ueno." However, you can't make reservations for seats at the restaurant, and there is a line at lunchtime, so we recommend going just after opening at 10:00 as a slightly late breakfast. It seems that you can usually get in relatively easily.

The secret to the deliciousness of the conger eel rice at "Anagomeshi Ueno" is the softly grilled conger eel and the rice cooked in broth made from the bones of the conger eel. You may be a little surprised by the size of the lacquer bowl that the conger eel rice is served in, but once you start eating, you will be so impressed by how delicious it is that your chopsticks will keep moving forward, and before you know it, you will have finished the whole thing.

画像: 蒸すことも煮ることもせず、じっくりとタレで焼きこむ穴子がうまさの秘訣

The secret to its deliciousness is that the conger eel is not steamed or boiled, but rather slowly grilled in sauce.

Also, here's some good news for those who want to enjoy their anagomeshi at Ueno without having to wait in line. In fact, there is a sister restaurant, Tanikichi, on the second floor of Anagomeshi Ueno, where you can enjoy your meal at your leisure in a private tatami room if you make a reservation.

画像: 店内はすべて畳の個室(画像提供:他人吉)

The entire restaurant is made up of private tatami rooms (Image provided by Taninyoshi)

However, unlike the menu at Anagomeshi Ueno, Taninyoshi offers the Taninyoshi Anago Meshi Gozen (Monday and Thursday lunchtime only), which comes with vinegared dishes, grilled unglazed conger eel, red miso soup, and ice cream. In addition, they also offer an all-you-can-eat anago course meal (Friday, Saturday, and Sunday lunchtime and dinner only), as well as a wide selection of local sake, wine, and other drinks that go well with anago dishes, so they are also recommended for dinner.

画像: 「他人吉穴子飯御前」(画像提供:他人吉)

"Tanjinyoshi Conger Eel Rice" (Image provided by Tanjinyoshi)

Conger eel rice Ueno
Closed DayOpen everyday (Only lunch boxes are sold on Wednesdays)
business hoursLunch box 09:00-19:00 Dining room 10:00-19:00
webwww.anagomeshi.com
address1-5-11 Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture
Other people's good luck
Closed DayTuesday Wednesday
business hours11:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00 *Dinner is only available on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays
webwww.anagomeshi.com
address1-5-11 Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture

A second-hand book cafe renovated from a 100-year-old sake brewery, known only to those in the know

Miyajimaguchi's Memory Shop Epilo

In a storehouse on the same premises as "Anagomeshi Ueno," there is a secondhand book cafe called "Miyajimaguchi no Omoide Shop Epilo," known only to those in the know. The shop already has many fans locally, but there is no conspicuous sign outside, so customers who visit "Anagomeshi Ueno" are often surprised to find a shop in a place like this.

画像: 広島で活躍する作家の作品や伝統工芸品の熊野筆が並ぶ

Works by artists active in Hiroshima and traditional Kumano brushes are on display

The second floor is a cafe space, and the second-hand books lined up in a small space are available for loan. "We call it the second-hand book library," explains the store manager, Mr. Matsushima. Here, you can enjoy delicious drip coffee and cake while reading second-hand books, and if you order one drink, you can bring in and eat a bento from "Anagomeshi Ueno."

画像: 古本図書館&カフェスペース

Secondhand book library and cafe space

Miyajimaguchi's Memory Shop Epilo
Closed DayIrregular holidays
business hoursWeekdays 10:00-18:00, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays 10:00-19:00
webepilo.net
address1-5-11 Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture

Original products made in collaboration with Hiroshima-based artists are very popular

zakkaHigurashi

Zakka Higurashi is a shop that stocks the perfect souvenirs from Miyajima, located on the first floor of Kurayado Iroha, a relaxing inn located along Omotesando, Miyajima's main street. The store is carefully decorated with highly designed products, from everyday items such as hand towels with a large torii gate or deer motif, to ceramic and iron ornaments. There are also many original products, most of which are planned and produced by the store manager Ueda and artists in the Hiroshima area.

Image: Original tenugui towels with a Miyajima deer motif

Original hand towels with a Miyajima deer motif

Particularly popular are the chopstick rests with torii and deer motifs, which were made in collaboration with a pottery studio in Hiroshima Prefecture. Due to their high design quality, many people buy them not only as chopstick rests but also as small ornaments, and they sell out quickly even when they are in stock. Since they are handmade one by one, production cannot keep up with demand, but if you are lucky, you may be able to find them.

Image: A deer-shaped chopstick rest that can also be used as an objet d'art

Deer-shaped chopstick rests that can also be used as objects

zakkaHigurashi
Closed DayOpen daily
business hours10:00〜17:00
webwww.iroha.to
address589-4 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture

Open for only three hours. A luxurious hideaway cafe where you can experience something out of the ordinary

Tenshinkaku

Just one street behind Omotesando, Miyajima's main street, you'll find Tenshinkaku, a cafe that could be described as a hideaway, located on a hilltop with a great view, up a flight of stairs. The building retains its elegant appearance as a former villa for an aristocrat, and is now decorated with antique French furniture, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The cafe is open for just three hours, from 2pm to 5pm. Despite this, many customers come from far away in search of a soothing drink.

Photo: A quaint cafe renovated from an aristocrat's villa

A charming cafe created by renovating an aristocrat's villa

The menu includes drip coffee made with home-roasted beans, as well as drinks such as espresso, tea, and juice, and three types of homemade cakes. The lemon cake made with Hiroshima lemons has a subtle aroma that tickles the nose and goes well with the rich, crisp drip coffee. Stepping out into the garden is a luxurious location where you can look down at the Seto Inland Sea and Itsukushima Shrine, as well as the five-story pagoda and Senjokaku at the same eye level. In contrast to the bustle of Omotesando and Itsukushima Shrine, you can enjoy the leisurely and quiet view of Miyajima here.

Image: Homemade Hiroshima lemon cake

Homemade Hiroshima lemon cake

Tenshinkaku
Closed DayWednesday, Thursday
business hours14:00-17:00 (L.O. 16:30)
webitsuki-miyajima.com
address413 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture

A cafe with a spectacular view of Miyajima cityscape and the Seto Inland Sea

Oyster Celebration

Oyster dishes are a famous local delicacy in Hiroshima. Miyajima is home to a restaurant specializing in oyster dishes, Kakiya, which was featured in the Michelin Guide Hiroshima 2013 Special Edition, and the restaurant we'd like to introduce to you today is Kakiiwai, a concept shop run by that restaurant. The attraction of this restaurant is its location. From the open windows facing the sea, you can see the calm Seto Inland Sea, the tranquil streets of Miyajima, and the beautiful vermilion five-story pagoda and the impressive Senjokaku. You can enjoy a view that makes it seem as if you're getting a panoramic view of Miyajima's highlights.

画像: 美しい五重塔や宮島の街並み

The beautiful five-story pagoda and the streets of Miyajima

While admiring this magnificent view, we enjoyed oysters pickled in oil, made with the highest quality Hiroshima oysters, and "TOMOÉ", a wine from a local Hiroshima winery. The rich oysters, reminiscent of cheese, go perfectly with the fresh acidity and gorgeous aroma of the white wine. Apparently, the oysters are served with shredded spring onions, as is customary at oyster restaurants. The stylish presentation will lift your spirits.

Image: Oysters go best with white wine

Oysters go best with white wine.

Oyster Celebration
business hours12:00〜16:00
webwww.kakiwai.jp
address422 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture

Akiko Isonaga

A writer living in Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima Prefecture. Currently working as an official writer for the web media "Setouchi Finder" (Setouchi Tourism Organization), which promotes the attractions of the seven prefectures that share the Setouchi region. In addition, she was in charge of interviews and writing for the free paper "Miyajimaguchi Strolling" which focuses on Miyajimaguchi.

The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.

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