Photo and text: Akiko Isonaga
The thoughts behind "Osunayaki," which is made by mixing and baking sacred sand from Itsukushima Shrine
Yamane vs. Gendou "Gallery Yo"
Have you heard of Miyajima Osakoyaki, a Hiroshima craft? It is pottery made by kneading sand from under the main hall of Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima into the soil, and its simple texture has led to the creation of many dishes for daily use and tea utensils. The person who is breathing new artistic life into this osakoyaki is Yamane Koya, the third generation owner of Yamane Taigendo, which was founded in 1912.

Yamane vs. Gendou III, Koya Yamane
"I want to create a piece that conveys people's feelings and history," he said, and after much trial and error, the "Eternal Fire Ash Glazed Candle Holder" was born, which is now one of Hiroshima's representative traditional crafts. It was inspired by the "Eternal Fire" that has been burning for over 1,200 years in the "Fusereikado" of Daishoin Temple at the summit of Mount Misen in Miyajima, and the words of the chief priest of Daishoin Temple who protects it.
"Just like the unextinguished flame that has been burning for 1,200 years thanks to the people who continue to protect it, I wanted to convey that everyone is watched over by someone," says Koya. His gentle and calm personality can be felt in each of his works.

"Eternal Fire Ash Glazed Candle Holder"
The "Eternal Fire Ash Glazed Candle Holder" won the Hiroshima Good Design Award in 2015. It can be purchased at Gallery Yo, which is about a 3-minute walk from JR Miyajimaguchi Station.
Yamane vs. Gendou "Gallery Yo" | ||
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Closed Day | : | Wednesdays/Irregular holidays |
business hours | : | 11:00~17:30 |
web | : | miyajimayaki.jp/ |
address | : | 1-2-6 Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture |
Founded in 1901. Visit the long-established restaurant that gave birth to the Miyajima specialty "Anagomeshi"
Conger eel rice Ueno, Taninyoshi
"Anagomeshi" is famous nationwide as a ekiben that impresses gourmets. It is said to have started when the first owner of "Anagomeshi Ueno" made and sold bento boxes using conger eels, which were often caught in the nearby seas, as a ekiben at Miyajimaguchi Station (formerly Miyajima Station), which opened in 1897.

"Anagomeshi" is a lacquer bowl filled with conger eel.
Many people buy this ekiben, which is known for being "delicious even when cold," but if you've come all the way to Hiroshima, you'll want to try it at the restaurant of "Anagomeshi Ueno." However, you can't make reservations for seats at the restaurant, and there is a line at lunchtime, so we recommend going just after opening at 10:00 as a slightly late breakfast. It seems that you can usually get in relatively easily.
The secret to the deliciousness of the conger eel rice at "Anagomeshi Ueno" is the softly grilled conger eel and the rice cooked in broth made from the bones of the conger eel. You may be a little surprised by the size of the lacquer bowl that the conger eel rice is served in, but once you start eating, you will be so impressed by how delicious it is that your chopsticks will keep moving forward, and before you know it, you will have finished the whole thing.

The secret to its deliciousness is that the conger eel is not steamed or boiled, but rather slowly grilled in sauce.
Also, here's some good news for those who want to enjoy their anagomeshi at Ueno without having to wait in line. In fact, there is a sister restaurant, Tanikichi, on the second floor of Anagomeshi Ueno, where you can enjoy your meal at your leisure in a private tatami room if you make a reservation.

The entire restaurant is made up of private tatami rooms (Image provided by Taninyoshi)
However, unlike the menu at Anagomeshi Ueno, Taninyoshi offers the Taninyoshi Anago Meshi Gozen (Monday and Thursday lunchtime only), which comes with vinegared dishes, grilled unglazed conger eel, red miso soup, and ice cream. In addition, they also offer an all-you-can-eat anago course meal (Friday, Saturday, and Sunday lunchtime and dinner only), as well as a wide selection of local sake, wine, and other drinks that go well with anago dishes, so they are also recommended for dinner.

"Tanjinyoshi Conger Eel Rice" (Image provided by Tanjinyoshi)
Conger eel rice Ueno | ||
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Closed Day | : | Open everyday (Only lunch boxes are sold on Wednesdays) |
business hours | : | Lunch box 09:00-19:00 Dining room 10:00-19:00 |
web | : | www.anagomeshi.com |
address | : | 1-5-11 Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture |
Other people's good luck | ||
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Closed Day | : | Tuesday Wednesday |
business hours | : | 11:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00 *Dinner is only available on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays |
web | : | www.anagomeshi.com |
address | : | 1-5-11 Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture |
A second-hand book cafe renovated from a 100-year-old sake brewery, known only to those in the know
Miyajimaguchi's Memory Shop Epilo
In a storehouse on the same premises as "Anagomeshi Ueno," there is a secondhand book cafe called "Miyajimaguchi no Omoide Shop Epilo," known only to those in the know. The shop already has many fans locally, but there is no conspicuous sign outside, so customers who visit "Anagomeshi Ueno" are often surprised to find a shop in a place like this.

Works by artists active in Hiroshima and traditional Kumano brushes are on display
The second floor is a cafe space, and the second-hand books lined up in a small space are available for loan. "We call it the second-hand book library," explains the store manager, Mr. Matsushima. Here, you can enjoy delicious drip coffee and cake while reading second-hand books, and if you order one drink, you can bring in and eat a bento from "Anagomeshi Ueno."

Secondhand book library and cafe space
Miyajimaguchi's Memory Shop Epilo | ||
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Closed Day | : | Irregular holidays |
business hours | : | Weekdays 10:00-18:00, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays 10:00-19:00 |
web | : | epilo.net |
address | : | 1-5-11 Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture |
Original products made in collaboration with Hiroshima-based artists are very popular
zakkaHigurashi
Zakka Higurashi is a shop that stocks the perfect souvenirs from Miyajima, located on the first floor of Kurayado Iroha, a relaxing inn located along Omotesando, Miyajima's main street. The store is carefully decorated with highly designed products, from everyday items such as hand towels with a large torii gate or deer motif, to ceramic and iron ornaments. There are also many original products, most of which are planned and produced by the store manager Ueda and artists in the Hiroshima area.

Original hand towels with a Miyajima deer motif
Particularly popular are the chopstick rests with torii and deer motifs, which were made in collaboration with a pottery studio in Hiroshima Prefecture. Due to their high design quality, many people buy them not only as chopstick rests but also as small ornaments, and they sell out quickly even when they are in stock. Since they are handmade one by one, production cannot keep up with demand, but if you are lucky, you may be able to find them.

Deer-shaped chopstick rests that can also be used as objects
zakkaHigurashi | ||
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Closed Day | : | Open daily |
business hours | : | 10:00〜17:00 |
web | : | www.iroha.to |
address | : | 589-4 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture |
Open for only three hours. A luxurious hideaway cafe where you can experience something out of the ordinary
Tenshinkaku
Just one street behind Omotesando, Miyajima's main street, you'll find Tenshinkaku, a cafe that could be described as a hideaway, located on a hilltop with a great view, up a flight of stairs. The building retains its elegant appearance as a former villa for an aristocrat, and is now decorated with antique French furniture, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The cafe is open for just three hours, from 2pm to 5pm. Despite this, many customers come from far away in search of a soothing drink.

A charming cafe created by renovating an aristocrat's villa
The menu includes drip coffee made with home-roasted beans, as well as drinks such as espresso, tea, and juice, and three types of homemade cakes. The lemon cake made with Hiroshima lemons has a subtle aroma that tickles the nose and goes well with the rich, crisp drip coffee. Stepping out into the garden is a luxurious location where you can look down at the Seto Inland Sea and Itsukushima Shrine, as well as the five-story pagoda and Senjokaku at the same eye level. In contrast to the bustle of Omotesando and Itsukushima Shrine, you can enjoy the leisurely and quiet view of Miyajima here.

Homemade Hiroshima lemon cake
Tenshinkaku | ||
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Closed Day | : | Wednesday, Thursday |
business hours | : | 14:00-17:00 (L.O. 16:30) |
web | : | itsuki-miyajima.com |
address | : | 413 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture |
A cafe with a spectacular view of Miyajima cityscape and the Seto Inland Sea
Oyster Celebration
Oyster dishes are a famous local delicacy in Hiroshima. Miyajima is home to a restaurant specializing in oyster dishes, Kakiya, which was featured in the Michelin Guide Hiroshima 2013 Special Edition, and the restaurant we'd like to introduce to you today is Kakiiwai, a concept shop run by that restaurant. The attraction of this restaurant is its location. From the open windows facing the sea, you can see the calm Seto Inland Sea, the tranquil streets of Miyajima, and the beautiful vermilion five-story pagoda and the impressive Senjokaku. You can enjoy a view that makes it seem as if you're getting a panoramic view of Miyajima's highlights.

The beautiful five-story pagoda and the streets of Miyajima
While admiring this magnificent view, we enjoyed oysters pickled in oil, made with the highest quality Hiroshima oysters, and "TOMOÉ", a wine from a local Hiroshima winery. The rich oysters, reminiscent of cheese, go perfectly with the fresh acidity and gorgeous aroma of the white wine. Apparently, the oysters are served with shredded spring onions, as is customary at oyster restaurants. The stylish presentation will lift your spirits.

Oysters go best with white wine.
Oyster Celebration | ||
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business hours | : | 12:00〜16:00 |
web | : | www.kakiwai.jp |
address | : | 422 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture |
Akiko Isonaga
A writer living in Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima Prefecture. Currently working as an official writer for the web media "Setouchi Finder" (Setouchi Tourism Organization), which promotes the attractions of the seven prefectures that share the Setouchi region. In addition, she was in charge of interviews and writing for the free paper "Miyajimaguchi Strolling" which focuses on Miyajimaguchi.
The contents published are accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.