A lovely trip to Moscow introduced by a Russia-loving cafe owner

First things first: How to enjoy this huge, historic department store

GUM Department Store

Even if you have never been to Russia, you have probably heard of "Red Square." It is a large square covering 73,000 m2 in the center of Moscow, facing the Kremlin Palace, which also houses the Russian Federation's presidential office, and is also registered as a World Heritage Site.

It is often featured in political news reports, so many people may have an intimidating image of it, but in fact it is a spot visited by many tourists from all over the world every day.

In addition to the Kremlin Palace, there are many other attractions, such as the State Historical Museum, the Vaskresensky Gate, St. Basil's Cathedral with its impressive colorful onion-shaped roof, and the GUM department store with its beautiful 19th century architecture. If you visit Moscow, these are the places you should visit first.

Among them, the one I would like to introduce in particular is GUM Department Store. This spot, which was a state-run department store during the communist era and was privatized, has about 141 tenant stores in a three-story space with a sales floor area of 35,000 m2. With an open ceiling that reaches all the way to the façade and a selection of euphoric background music, it is filled with everything I dream of when I think, "I wish I had a department store like this."

For example, the seasonal decorations centered around the Fountain Square on the first floor are one of the joys of visiting Moscow.

The grocery store next to it has an impressive interior that retains the atmosphere of classic 19th century architecture, making it a great place to wander around to pick out souvenirs.

There is also a corner for "Alyonka," the brand that is synonymous with Russian chocolate, where you can buy chocolate by weight.

The food court on the third floor is a stalovaya (a buffet-style cafeteria unique to Russia) style, where you can order by pointing at what you want. Even if you don't speak Russian, you can easily enjoy authentic Russian cuisine.

Experience the deliciousness of Moscow at a local market

Danilovsky Market

Moscow still has several large rynoks (markets) built during the Communist era, where many of the city's residents buy groceries such as vegetables, fruits, dairy products, pickles, and meat.

One of the most recommended spots is Danilovsky Market. It takes about 30 minutes by subway from Red Square, but the historic architecture has been renovated into a modern style, making it a fun spot for tourists to have lunch and look for food souvenirs.

At the food court, you can enjoy cuisine from various countries, including Russian, Ukrainian, Mexican, Korean and Vietnamese.

The Vietnamese restaurant "Bo" always has a line, and the pho is surprisingly delicious. When you're tired of Russian cuisine, which often uses butter and cream, light Asian food will warm your stomach.

You can enjoy your ordered food at your leisure in the eat-in space on the second floor. You do not need to return the plates after you finish eating, you can just leave them there.

Artistic cakes with a luxurious feel

Confectionery Cafe Pushkin

In Moscow, the word "cafe" also refers to a restaurant. "Cafe Pushkin" is a very famous restaurant where you can enjoy rich, traditional Russian cuisine, but my favorite is "Confectionery Cafe Pushkin" next door.

This is a salon de the that focuses on cakes, and both the interior and the cakes are beautiful, giving you a luxurious feeling.

The menu includes a book-shaped cake inspired by the Russian literary giant Alexander Pushkin (1799-1837), as well as a cute cake inspired by a matryoshka doll. When you open the cake with a knife, a small matryoshka doll appears on the cross section, making it not only unique but also delicious.

Tverskaya Boulevard, near Confectionery Cafe Pushkin, is a fun area to stroll around, with shops selling traditional Russian ceramics, Imperial Porcelain, and the organic cosmetics brand NATURA SIBERICA. Why not take a break and enjoy some delicious cake and tea?

A must for cat lovers. What is the Cat Circus, popular among animal-loving Muscovites?

Kuklachev Cat Theatre

There are many famous circuses in Russia, and the Bolshoi Circus has even come to Japan, but the circus theater performed by "Cats and a Few Dogs" is a favorite of Muscovites.

The Kuklachev Cat Theatre is a circus theatre "run by cat-loving owners, with cats performing, for cat lovers." The interior of the theatre is also filled with cats, and on the second floor there is an exhibition of cat goods from around the world.

Many people may be surprised to hear, "Cats performing circus acts!?" However, the cats in this circus effortlessly perform a variety of tricks, such as walking between the clown's legs and staying still in a cage. There is also a photo opportunity with the cats during the intermission, so this is a theater that cat lovers should definitely visit.

The best of Europe and Asia: Enjoy Georgian cuisine

Cafe Illarion / Aragvi (Georgian cuisine)

Moscow is geographically located halfway between Europe and Asia, so various food cultures mix together, and you can easily enjoy a variety of foods, including Kazakh and Armenian cuisine. The famous Russian dish, borsch, actually has its roots in Ukrainian cuisine.

My favorite among them is Georgian cuisine (written as "Georgia" in Japan).

Georgia is a small country facing the Black Sea, on the border between Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, and as its location suggests, it has developed a unique and sophisticated food culture.

There are many Georgian restaurants in Moscow, but there are two that I would recommend in particular.

Cafe Il Larion, a 3-minute walk from Novokuznetskaya subway station, is a casual and affordable restaurant with striking green walls. You can enjoy typical Georgian dishes such as khachapuri and khinkali.

"Khachapuri" is a bread-like food topped with cheese. The recommended one is topped with raw egg, which you eat by mixing hot cheese and egg. "Kharcho" is also a delicious sour beef soup, and I always order it when I visit here.

Another dish worth checking out is "khinkali," which looks like a giant xiaolongbao dumpling. You hold the twisted protrusion in your hand, bite a bit of the skin, and sip the soup inside before eating, just like a xiaolongbao. The difference is that you leave the twisted protrusion uneaten.

Another recommended restaurant is "Aragvi", a 7-minute walk from Ahotni Ryad subway station. This restaurant is said to have been a favorite of members of the Soviet secret police, the KGB!

This restaurant was originally a palace in the 17th century, converted into a hotel in the 19th century, and then remodeled again into a restaurant in the 20th century.

Each room has been beautifully renovated, with some of the original 17th century walls still remaining, and the basement area that was originally a pharmacy now being turned into a bar. The khinkali, Russian cabbage rolls, and desserts are also recommended.

By the way, the interiors of Moscow's subway stations are incredibly stylish. Each station is unique and beautiful, but Novokuznetskaya Station, the closest to Cafe Il Larion, is particularly worth seeing, with its huge dome-shaped tunnel, interior sculptures, ceiling paintings, and many other Instagram-worthy spots.

The charm of Russia that still needs to be conveyed

The Russian people have always welcomed me warmly, even though I don't speak Russian. Russia may not have the same image as other European countries such as France, Italy, and Switzerland, but it is actually a safe country with very friendly people.

Once when I left my wallet in a shop in the market and went elsewhere, they spent 30 minutes searching for it and returning it to me, and they also called 20 post offices to find one that could send international mail. Their kindness always makes me feel at ease.

Obtaining a visa, which was previously a difficult task, has become easier, and the number of direct flights from Japan has increased.

There are plenty of museums that we could not introduce this time, but there are plenty of things to see, and a Moscow River cruise in the summer when there is no rainy season and the weather is dry and pleasant is also the best. Why not consider Moscow as your next travel destination?